HTT 13ss Wastegate Cover

RonA said:
Sleeve has been welded onto shaft and installed into housing using new bushing. All that's left is to tweak the assembly so both pucks are sitting flat and weld the arm that the actuator attaches to. I'm sure there is a better way to do it, and when someone comes up with it, post it here if you wouldn't mind.
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Looks good.. What material did you use to make the split bushing, and sleeve out of?? Did you have to enlarge the hole in the housing to except the new big bushing?? Nice write up..
 
I did not modify the hole in the housing. The split bushing and sleeve are made out of 316 stainless. The bushing that presses into the housing is made out of 17-4. I wanted to try and keep the two from galling.

Ron
 
Signal 73 said:
is that a crack on the upper left hand side or just a scratch?
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No just a line in the casting from what I can tell.

RonA said:
Have you tried running it without the screw driver holding it open?(sorry).
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What screw drivers make it go faster :umno:
That was funny!!!

I talked with Dave @ HTT today a couple times. I sent them pictures and little details pointing to what I was talking about. Pulled my SS housing of and she is going back to HTT. To make a long story short, I asked about the shaft having a week section and Dave agreed that is a posibility. They have also found the hole the bushing is pressed into has not been correctly aligned in some cases.

I asked about a shaft supported on both ends, problem or concern is with about 1" of thickness for existing bushings this works as a good seal the other side is only about 1/4" thick and would likely become an exhaust leak.

They are working on a few fixes, depending on what the problem is. They will look at my housing and see what it will take to make it right, or I could end up with a complete new housing.

If I get the same housing back, I will open it up and share pictures.

Lee
 
when the arm tweaks you can still hit max boost

its just laggy down low cuz the gates not sealing

mine is back from htt (13ss)

dave said they put a "upgraded" arm in it

how old is that arm ron, the one for the turbo you just modified?

(nice job btw, esp if it works - really hope it does cuz it looks like you spent some time on it)

don

oh, and whats 17-4? diff stainless or some trick bronze or something?
 
I've messed around with my gate yesterday,manged with some "finessing" to get both pucks to shut and not spin. However, I can only spike to 55psi and is always settles to 50. off idle spool is very good now. stock like.

It's not hard to use your finger and push up on the puck and move things. That little bit has to bleed off enough to lose some pressure.

I was thinking maybe one could disconnect the bottom puck, and weld it closed, leaving the top puck there to vent.
 
i am not sure if two of them are big enough...no way would one be enough

besides, unless you are running an open flange header you would only be relieving the pressure from 3 cyls

the other 3 are not gonna like you anymore

thats assuming they like you now!

lol
 
I would like to see one puck for both ports with a pivot between the ports where the puck would attach. I don't see the reason for having 2 pucks.

Dave told me some people are getting 60 PSI on 64mm, I never got mine past 50 PSI when it was a 62mm, but I have a feeling I have been leaking by since new. I also wondered if the spings in the actuators could hold with 50+ PSI and what ever the drive pressure is at that point.

Lee
 
If one of you still has your turbo down, measure across the exhaust housing at the throat where the cartridge fits down into it.

I'd like to switch to that style housing for a turbo i'm going to install. I need to know if it will fit or not.

Thanks
Kyle
 
Is the "throat" going to be different size to clear the 2 different wheels, 65 or 71? Biggy what size do you want to fit in a SS housing? I can measure mine when I get it back in a week or 2.
 
DTanklage said:
i am not sure if two of them are big enough...no way would one be enough

besides, unless you are running an open flange header you would only be relieving the pressure from 3 cyls

the other 3 are not gonna like you anymore

thats assuming they like you now!

lol
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Isn't it slotted on the turbo side to equal out the pressure? But yeah, I didn't think of that. maybe I should just weld both in? :)
 
I'll have to break mine down and measure it. And I have no Idea if the wheels have different diameters for thier housings at that point.
 
Any more info on this?

Is someone making new plates yet?

I put some high temp goopy on mine when I put it back together...

Lasted about a week.

Need a better fix.
 
Engineered Diesel sells them.(I sent you a pm a while back). There is also a fix for the puck sealing issue(HTT turbo has it).
 
BHaner said:
Any more info on this?

Is someone making new plates yet?

I put some high temp goopy on mine when I put it back together...

Lasted about a week.

Need a better fix.
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Rip (Source Automotive), has covers that are about twice as thick, along with a stainless gasket. They solved that problem for me. Ron solved my other problem.

Paul
 
JasonCzerak said:
How many folks have issues obtaining over 50psi of boost with these latest charges?
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I would be one of those and I've been saying it for almost two years.


Going back to a cast housing but I am curious how you make the W/G holes bigger on it??
 
paulb said:
Rip (Source Automotive), has covers that are about twice as thick, along with a stainless gasket. They solved that problem for me. Ron solved my other problem.

Paul
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Dang! I was just down there for the last few weekends!

What was the "other problem"?
 
BRIDLEMAN said:
I would be one of those and I've been saying it for almost two years.


Going back to a cast housing but I am curious how you make the W/G holes bigger on it??
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I can hit 47psi with mine. I don't really see a problem hitting 50psi if I wanted to close the gate off some more.
 
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