HTT wastegate TEMPORARY FIX, while waiting for the real

Well, I have the flutter again.. maybe 1psi +-. I'm curious if my valve lash change is part of hte issue? It's at .010 and .020.. Was .008 and .018 seems worse today then it did pre-lash change. I might go back to tighter lash.

The flutter starts at 30psi-ish.

I just did a boost check. zero leaks at 20psi on the boost gauge, 25 on the compressor. When I cranked it up to 50 on the compressor I didn't have much time before the tester blew off. I didn't hear any hissing or saw any bubbles on the spots I managed to check.

This week i'll rig up the parts necessary to get my boost gauge hooked up to the exhaust manifold. I have one port (for egt) on the back 3. and the one that's for the future dedicated gauge is on the front three.

I'm curious if the flutter is in that as well.
 
JasonCzerak said:
Well, I have the flutter again.. maybe 1psi +-. I'm curious if my valve lash change is part of hte issue? It's at .010 and .020.. Was .008 and .018 seems worse today then it did pre-lash change. I might go back to tighter lash.

The flutter starts at 30psi-ish.

I just did a boost check. zero leaks at 20psi on the boost gauge, 25 on the compressor. When I cranked it up to 50 on the compressor I didn't have much time before the tester blew off. I didn't hear any hissing or saw any bubbles on the spots I managed to check.

This week i'll rig up the parts necessary to get my boost gauge hooked up to the exhaust manifold. I have one port (for egt) on the back 3. and the one that's for the future dedicated gauge is on the front three.

I'm curious if the flutter is in that as well.
Click to expand...

Who's boost gauge?
 
JasonCzerak said:
Autometer phantom ii 0-100
Click to expand...

I have the auto meter C2 gauges. 100psi and the 50psi for cold pipe. Both needles fluttered real bad. I spoke with Auto Meter and they advised me that the gauge required some dampning. The mechanism was to senstive for the higher boost numbers.
Anyway sent it down and they repaired and returned for free. Gauges do not move been up to 95psi on the main gauge.
Rob
 
onetun said:
I have the auto meter C2 gauges. 100psi and the 50psi for cold pipe. Both needles fluttered real bad. I spoke with Auto Meter and they advised me that the gauge required some dampning. The mechanism was to senstive for the higher boost numbers.
Anyway sent it down and they repaired and returned for free. Gauges do not move been up to 95psi on the main gauge.
Rob
Click to expand...

No chit?

What confuses me is that I've seen the gauge hold steady before.
 
you are trippin

changin the lash 2 thou aint gonna do squat

the gauges just need a really really small orfice in front of them

if you send them in they will press a brass plug into the inlet and drill it to like .005

good to go

my turbo was posed to show from htt today according to tracking

its 6:20 here and nada

: (
 
I was pretty sure it wasn't from the gate, and some flutter is possible from tight valves because I've seen it on a engine or two three around here. Higher % the guage just needs more dampning.
 
I think I have this wastegate problem on my 12v. I have the 62/65/13 ss and last week the turbo started making a loud noise almost like a boost leak. I checked for leaks and found none. I called htt and they said to check my wastegate that they have been having problems. My boost gauge does't flutter though. I can't get more than 30lbs. of boost but I never have been able to. Could I have had this problem since it was new? It's about a year old and I tow 10-20k all the time. I have enough fuel I should be able to spool to 40lbs. so I'm thinking mines been messed up all along and it's bad enough now I can hear it and it has killed my spool up. Htt said to pull the turbo off and check it but I haven't had time. I sure don't have time to send it off to have it fixed. I use my truck everyday. Haven't decided what I'm going to do but this is really aggrevating because the turbo isn't that old and it has never seen over 30lbs' of boost or 1300. I just tow alot. Do the 71's have this much problem? How much worse would it be towing?
 
DTanklage said:
from 2 thou tight?

i thought 8&18 was fine

what do you set em at?


ps - ups finally came. the arm looks really nice. thanks again ron and htt
Click to expand...



Yeah 8 & 18 is in spec, I mean from ZERO lash, at least on some of the bigger diesels, the valve to seat can wear faster than the cam/followers and after a ton of hours the lash will be less than what you set it,

OR

I remember Jason messed up the lash before and had some pistons correct it for him and some bent pushrods.....:poke:
 
Well...... Beat the crap outa the truck just now. Lets say, I can hold my own on a stock C6 auto. ;-) I figured I was around 7350#

The gauge did steady out as the night progressed. It wasn't obvious.. I think I'm running a little to much on the boost side, seems to fall over a little early. I'll back that screw down a few turns in the morning.

I think I'll be getting a 66 wheel very soon. ;-) I think I"m just plain outa air.
 
Joesixpack said:
Yeah 8 & 18 is in spec, I mean from ZERO lash, at least on some of the bigger diesels, the valve to seat can wear faster than the cam/followers and after a ton of hours the lash will be less than what you set it,

OR

I remember Jason messed up the lash before and had some pistons correct it for him and some bent pushrods.....:poke:
Click to expand...

Yeah, well. I double checked everything.. :) I'll return the lash back down to 8 and 18 this weekend.
 
Mega Hooker said:
I think I have this wastegate problem on my 12v. I have the 62/65/13 ss and last week the turbo started making a loud noise almost like a boost leak. I checked for leaks and found none. I called htt and they said to check my wastegate that they have been having problems. My boost gauge does't flutter though. I can't get more than 30lbs. of boost but I never have been able to. Could I have had this problem since it was new? It's about a year old and I tow 10-20k all the time. I have enough fuel I should be able to spool to 40lbs. so I'm thinking mines been messed up all along and it's bad enough now I can hear it and it has killed my spool up. Htt said to pull the turbo off and check it but I haven't had time. I sure don't have time to send it off to have it fixed. I use my truck everyday. Haven't decided what I'm going to do but this is really aggrevating because the turbo isn't that old and it has never seen over 30lbs' of boost or 1300. I just tow alot. Do the 71's have this much problem? How much worse would it be towing?
Click to expand...




I wouldn't use the boost guage fluttering as a sign, but the rest of the symptoms sound right, were you should see it the most is on spool up, and it can creep up and you don't really notice it untill one day your thinking what the hell, were's the spool.

Its more about really putting the boots to it, guys running it as a single, with moderate drive pressures, it could last quite a while.

On my truck with twins running over 100lbs of drive, it only made a few hours.

I'd send it off get the updates while the gettin's good....
 
JasonCzerak said:
I'll return the lash back down to 8 and 18 this weekend.
Click to expand...

really think you are wasting ur time

have ran mine at 6 n 16 before

10 n 20

what ever

long as you have a couple of thou when its hot

think thats all that matters

i adj the int when the ex opens and the ex when the int closes

do ea cyl individually

with that method i know the lifter is on the heal of its lobe

2 position method is for mechanics that are gettin paid book hours imo
 
So, I've been pondering some more.. Dangerous I know....

But I think my flutter issue isn't a gauge issue. I mean, it used to flutter much much lower, like at 15psi, not it's mainly over 30. What changed? The gate. Is the gate perfect? I don't think so. I wish I could have some sort of pressure gauge or something. push up on one puck measure for gap, push with same pressure on the other, measure again.

I suppose before I theories much further I should rig up the boost gauge as a drive pressure to both banks and see how they react. If one flutters, and one doesn't. Or one maxes higher then the other. Then we obviously still have an issue. Would I be correct on this assumption? Drive pressure on the front 3 should be the same as back. obviously the only way to test this is at WOT, unless I have 2 gauges. I've asked in the local form if anyone has one.. I have an extra tube, maybe I can just barrow the gauge and pop it out of a local members truck for my tests... I'll see what I can do on that front. So my goal is to do that this weekend.

Drop my lash back down to 18. don't care. going to do it. :) I should check it tho for sure. I missed 6th and the motor sat at 4000 for like 15 seconds before it came back down.. Truck ran fine. But ya never know ;-) Running good today too. Even on software #9.

which leads me to my next question. I'm to lazy to look whom mentioned it, but the exhaust tone vs boost. Ya know what. When I load things up you hear a rasp and the truck just gets loud.. When I had that temp fix in (that prompted this thread), the popping-ish chevy straight piped sound kinda went away... for a few hours anyways. the truck is loaded up nicely at 30psi and up, and that's when the flutter starts and when the sound changes. Could one or more cylinders be out of balance? Injectors most likely the case? I have zero blow by. I use and make ZERO oil. Zero coolant loose. the injector bodies have a few miles on them.. I had a thread about return fuel rate.. 1.5 oz I think it was in 60 seconds at idle and warmed up. 1/4 of Cummins spec. There are a few rough spots un-loaded and higher rpm's, but that changes with software changes.

Right now #9 with Torque 1, timing 2, rail 3 idles smoother then any other software..... Even appears to smoke less at idle.

We'll see if my iron wear lessens, but how likely could the cam be wearing? 130,000 miles almost. 100,000 miles of "non-stock" operation. 100hp every year added. The cylinders looked perfect when we (PDP and I) pulled the head last winter for a gasket.

What other ideas here? I mean, there are plenty of folks I'm sure with out the boost gauge fix that do no have flutter and run lots of boost. right? It just sounds odd that Autometer after all these years would finally have a gauge that flutters.

I still have my eye on a gate issue. But lets not jump to conclusions yet.

Triton, I know how you feel now :) hehehehehe
 
Man you type a lot.

Go to autozone and get a 100psi sunpro oil psi gauge for 16.99.

Then lowes for copper tubing and fittings, $15-20 at the most.


I would get something to dampen your boost gauge.
 
bsmith said:
Man you type a lot.

Go to autozone and get a 100psi sunpro oil psi gauge for 16.99.

Then lowes for copper tubing and fittings, $15-20 at the most.


I would get something to dampen your boost gauge.
Click to expand...

sometimes. :)
 
I have to ask, do you guys intend on using the wastegate or are you like most and have it tie shut. Mine was fluttering bad. I made another cover for the waste gate and drilled and tapped it and center drilled two bolts. The bolts screw down on top of the flappers to hold them down. No more waste gate problems. I wish HTT would make a non wastegated housing.
 
JasonCzerak said:
So, I've been pondering some more.. Dangerous I know....

But I think my flutter issue isn't a gauge issue. I mean, it used to flutter much much lower, like at 15psi, not it's mainly over 30. What changed? The gate. Is the gate perfect? I don't think so. I wish I could have some sort of pressure gauge or something. push up on one puck measure for gap, push with same pressure on the other, measure again.

I suppose before I theories much further I should rig up the boost gauge as a drive pressure to both banks and see how they react. If one flutters, and one doesn't. Or one maxes higher then the other. Then we obviously still have an issue. Would I be correct on this assumption? Drive pressure on the front 3 should be the same as back. obviously the only way to test this is at WOT, unless I have 2 gauges. I've asked in the local form if anyone has one.. I have an extra tube, maybe I can just barrow the gauge and pop it out of a local members truck for my tests... I'll see what I can do on that front. So my goal is to do that this weekend.

Drop my lash back down to 18. don't care. going to do it. :) I should check it tho for sure. I missed 6th and the motor sat at 4000 for like 15 seconds before it came back down.. Truck ran fine. But ya never know ;-) Running good today too. Even on software #9.

which leads me to my next question. I'm to lazy to look whom mentioned it, but the exhaust tone vs boost. Ya know what. When I load things up you hear a rasp and the truck just gets loud.. When I had that temp fix in (that prompted this thread), the popping-ish chevy straight piped sound kinda went away... for a few hours anyways. the truck is loaded up nicely at 30psi and up, and that's when the flutter starts and when the sound changes. Could one or more cylinders be out of balance? Injectors most likely the case? I have zero blow by. I use and make ZERO oil. Zero coolant loose. the injector bodies have a few miles on them.. I had a thread about return fuel rate.. 1.5 oz I think it was in 60 seconds at idle and warmed up. 1/4 of Cummins spec. There are a few rough spots un-loaded and higher rpm's, but that changes with software changes.

Right now #9 with Torque 1, timing 2, rail 3 idles smoother then any other software..... Even appears to smoke less at idle.

We'll see if my iron wear lessens, but how likely could the cam be wearing? 130,000 miles almost. 100,000 miles of "non-stock" operation. 100hp every year added. The cylinders looked perfect when we (PDP and I) pulled the head last winter for a gasket.

What other ideas here? I mean, there are plenty of folks I'm sure with out the boost gauge fix that do no have flutter and run lots of boost. right? It just sounds odd that Autometer after all these years would finally have a gauge that flutters.

I still have my eye on a gate issue. But lets not jump to conclusions yet.


Triton, I know how you feel now :) hehehehehe
Click to expand...



What your saying is the truck runs perfect, except for about 1psi flutter on the guage after 30psi boost?

If thats the case, its just damping, and not enough, imagine a guage with absolute reaction, and no damping, you would see each time the intake valves opened and closed.

My gauges have a fair bit of damping and in all cases the three times now I wasted my gate:hehe: there was never any flutter.


If your still determined its to do with the gate, lock it down, (solid spacer or bind up the spring) and run a more conservative program and see what it does.
 
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