Hydraulic Upgrade

here's what i would do, get a small steering wheel puller or you can even make your own plate bolt it where the slave goes, run the slack out of the fork and screw it in another 1/2 inch, you should be able to shift gears and or spin the drive shaft if ,the clutch is releasing. If not then it would more than likley be internal. you can make a plate that bolts to the bell housing cut a hole in the middle and weld on a nut then run a long bolt through it to acheive the same results. JMO



I like what you are saying here. So 1/2" should fully engage and disengage the clutch? I will be checking it out.

Does anyone know, and maybe I missed it earlier in the thread, the upgraded hydro's are stronger and adjustable, but is the stroke the same?
 
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it probably will be a more than 1/2 got to take the leverage of the fork into consideration. the bearing has to move the fingers around a 1/2 inch. if i calculated it right it should be around 1.1" at the fork. Sorry
 
Well, finally ordered my hydraulic upgrade, have to see what it looks like when it gets here.
 
I have 94 hydraulics in my 01, the clutch pedal is easy to push, engages fully etc. But i cant get the damn thing to stay in the firewall.

the stock bracket is useless, ripped the plastic tabs off, so i made an aluminum one, but the plastic just keeps cracking and letting the master move around.

So who's kit comes w/ a new bracket that works?
 
I like what you are saying here. So 1/2" should fully engage and disengage the clutch? I will be checking it out.

Does anyone know, and maybe I missed it earlier in the thread, the upgraded hydro's are stronger and adjustable, but is the stroke the same?

Stroke is the same on both units.
 
well i pulled my pressure plate yesterday afternoon and replaced it with the new one and it didnt fix the problem so i will be getting some hydros hopefully this takes care of the problem which we are really sure this is the problem now
 
Well, gents and non-gents. I got the hydro junk put in yesterday. I'll have to appologize for not taking pics and stuff but if you knew how bad I felt last night, you'd cut me some slack. My neighbor came over and thankfully he did most of the work....'cause if I bent over under the hood one more time, I was going to have to go outside and ralph.

The slave is a cinch. Two bolts, jerk and stab. Two bolts. They are Japanese so leave your standard size sockets in the box.

The clip on the clutch pedal is a cinch.....if you can pull your seat all the way back, lay on your back with a half twist, keep the drop light from igniting your hair and use a pair of needle nose pliars. Just pops off.

The hardest part is fighting the old master cyclinder out from under the jumbled up rats nest of BS under the dash. EVERY-THING is in the freakin' way. The new one goes in pretty easy becasue you can unscrew the eye off the end and that takes just enough length off the rod to get it in.

Over all, I can tell the truck shifts a lot smoother. As far as putting the truck in neutral, spinning everything up, then clutching it and catchin' 1st, 2nd, or rev....no dice. The best thing is now I can wait out the stop lights with the truck in gear and the clutch depressed. The pedal has a lot less resistance with the better cylinders. :)

So, I may have gained about $100 of improvement for my $300 purchase. Not completely happy with the tranny yet, but it is a little better now.
 
just installed my 3600 DD over the weekend, is it pretty typical for the shifts to be much slower? i kinda have to fight the truck to get it into 5th and Rev. Just wonderin if this would be some sort of adjustment at the clutch pedal (installed the hd hydros as well)?
 
just installed my 3600 DD over the weekend, is it pretty typical for the shifts to be much slower? i kinda have to fight the truck to get it into 5th and Rev. Just wonderin if this would be some sort of adjustment at the clutch pedal (installed the hd hydros as well)?

get the hydros i reccomend it mine just started out doin it in 5th and rev and then went to every gear talked to sbc and the said it was the pressure plate 4hrs later old one removed and new one installed and no change at all so now im gonna toss on a spare set of hydros till i get some money rounded up for upgraded hydros

i wanna play a little game can anyone guess which pressure plate this is i would like your opinion also dan if you want you can pm nick almost sent you my old plate to have tested but i told him to stop causing trouble old plate had two blue springs if i remember right
DSC_0281.jpg
 
get the hydros i reccomend it mine just started out doin it in 5th and rev and then went to every gear talked to sbc and the said it was the pressure plate 4hrs later old one removed and new one installed and no change at all so now im gonna toss on a spare set of hydros till i get some money rounded up for upgraded hydros

i wanna play a little game can anyone guess which pressure plate this is i would like your opinion also dan if you want you can pm nick almost sent you my old plate to have tested but i told him to stop causing trouble old plate had two blue springs if i remember right
DSC_0281.jpg

i installed the hd hydros when i installed the clutch..... i know the hydros came pre-bled, but could bleeding the hydros help the issue?
 
i really would prefer not to get involved.It's bad for business and SB is a reputable company and can solve you problem im quite sure.JMO
 
i have seen the new hydro system's with air in them. try pumping the crap out of it and let it sit with the cap off.

anyone can check a clutch, with the clutch and fw removed, bolt everything to the flywheel and move the lever's down 1/2, the plate should pull back and you should be able to spin the disc, this can be done in a press or you can use some all thread running all the through the flywheel.
 
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i have seen the new hydro system's with air in them. try pumping the crap out of it and let it sit with the cap off.

anyone can check a clutch, with the clutch and fw removed, bolt everything to the flywheel and move the lever's down 1/2, the plate should pull back and you should be able to spin the disc, this can be done in a press or you can use some all thread running all the through the flywheel.

are your upgraded hydros a direct bolt on and come with fluid in them kinda want a heads up cause if mine show up i want to put the on quick as possible and head to a pull
i tried messing with my stock hydros but seals on the part by the pedal leak air and oil out the end so clutch wont depress so the truck is stuck in the garage until the new ones arrive
 
I cannot speak for Dan's units, but I do know the SBC ones come ready to go. I would go out on a limb and say that his do also.
 
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