Let's talk S465

I got my truck running wednesday night. I used the cummins outlet on mine and all i did was cut about 2 1/2 inches out of the long side of the factory steel tube and it worked great. I wil try to get pics today when i try to finish the wiring and exhaust.
 
ILLINOISRAM said:
Well i partially agree with you here. But the box stock "465" is not a 65 mm compressor wheel, it is 63.5mm and according to everybody that has run one, its not enough air. The custom ones we refer to are building them sorta from scratch. They start with the turbine size that matches our setups which is bigger than the 74mm 465 turbine for instance my buddies is a 88mm turbine. Then they take a big compressor wheel like a 80mm and cnc a custom grind on it to make it 2.6 inlet but has alot of meat in the middle and top side. Then cnc the comp cover to match the wheel and charge 1800-2000$ Im not saying they are not worth the money, but i spent half the money and basically have the same setup.


By the way, is that a Terry schaffer cam from ohio? I deal with him alot.

Tim
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i hope your right about the 465 (63.5) not being enough air cause i decided to go with the 75mm (74.675) comp inducer 100.076 comp exducer and a 95.707 turbine inducer. it came with a 1.32 a/r and im having trouble lighting the turbo on the line and keeping it lit. i have bumped the timing up and increased fuel with no luck. its just a dog but when it lights look out. i pulled the exaust housing thinking of dropping the a/r down to 1.0 or less. not sure if it will cure the problem . its that or drop back to the 64mm so i can run the 2.6 class. right now im runnin open. what a/r u runnin?

as far as clippin a 75mm down i think u would b better off with a smaller wheel . its cheaper no clipp work or custom cover and more efficient . the very edge of the wheels produce the best airflow clipp them off and then cover the edge with a cover :bang. i know people do it and it does work im not arguing that just my $.02

yeah the cam is from terry in ohio
 
JFlagg said:
Not sure what all had been done to it, but I ended up getting one for less...
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good!:rockwoot:

im not going to mention names or brands but they are literally unboxed reassembled with other unboxed parts from borg warner to make a type of hybrid i guess u would call it put a tough manly fancy name in place tell ya its custom which equalls more money ship it to ya

money root of all evil buyer beware ask what your gettin
 
A smaller exhausting would help alot... a 1.32 is huge. Try the 1.10, I'm sure you'll like it alot more
 
yeah gas on it said:
i hope your right about the 465 (63.5) not being enough air cause i decided to go with the 75mm (74.675) comp inducer 100.076 comp exducer and a 95.707 turbine inducer. it came with a 1.32 a/r and im having trouble lighting the turbo on the line and keeping it lit. i have bumped the timing up and increased fuel with no luck. its just a dog but when it lights look out. i pulled the exaust housing thinking of dropping the a/r down to 1.0 or less. not sure if it will cure the problem . its that or drop back to the 64mm so i can run the 2.6 class. right now im runnin open. what a/r u runnin?

as far as clippin a 75mm down i think u would b better off with a smaller wheel . its cheaper no clipp work or custom cover and more efficient . the very edge of the wheels produce the best airflow clipp them off and then cover the edge with a cover :bang. i know people do it and it does work im not arguing that just my $.02

yeah the cam is from terry in ohio
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Bumping the timing up will probably make it harder to stay on the charger.

1.32 and 96x87 will take some rpm and some cam to stay on the charger.
 
My buddy runs the same turbo you are talking about 75mm comp with the 96/87 1.32 t6 housing and he has a custom comp housing with a bushing welded in to make it 2.6. He runs it with a ppumped 24v , big 13mm pump, 30* timing and 4500 rpm, 6x.24 custom injectors. It makes around mid to upper 50's for boost IT lights at like 3000 but he has not had a problem staying ontop of it yet. We tried to get a 1.10 housing and it was going to be custom made because there is not a stock app for that. It was going to cost like $750

Im going to run the s400sx which is 71mm comp 84/74 turbin with a 1.10 t4 housing. Part number 177248. I drove the truck today and it ran good until it blew the freeze plug out of the block.

We have a whole motor kit from Terry sittin and waiting to go together when my brothers 300,000 mile motor finnally decieds to let go,. Supposably this kit we be sweet. 14 to1 compression, a big cam that i dont know what size it is but required somewhere in the neigborhood of .250 valve reliefs. Takes a certain piston with real low ring lands.
 
zstroken said:
Bumping the timing up will probably make it harder to stay on the charger.

1.32 and 96x87 will take some rpm and some cam to stay on the charger.
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How much rpm we talkin my cam is good to 5k. What about fuel will more fuel help ? I'm runnin about 580 cc right now . Will a shot of methanol or nos help light it? Seems like taking my timing up will make it worse it did last time from 18* to 25* . I can light it on line but on tight track I get under it before tires break loose. If I drop a gear I don't have enough wheel speed . I cAn't get 3 rd low
 
how big of cam do you have? About 3500 is where it will fall off the charger.

Just be able to run 4000 or more down the track.
 
zstroken said:
how big of cam do you have? About 3500 is where it will fall off the charger.

Just be able to run 4000 or more down the track.
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Ok I got enough cam for that it's just hard to stay above 4K when u let the clutch out . Untill I get use to it I think I'm gonna jack my tire psi up . Will methanol help keep it lit it don't help having brand new rubber 0 miles any other suggestions to keep it lit off the line?
 
ILLINOISRAM said:
My buddy runs the same turbo you are talking about 75mm comp with the 96/87 1.32 t6 housing and he has a custom comp housing with a bushing welded in to make it 2.6. He runs it with a ppumped 24v , big 13mm pump, 30* timing and 4500 rpm, 6x.24 custom injectors. It makes around mid to upper 50's for boost IT lights at like 3000 but he has not had a problem staying ontop of it yet. We tried to get a 1.10 housing and it was going to be custom made because there is not a stock app for that. It was going to cost like $750

Im going to run the s400sx which is 71mm comp 84/74 turbin with a 1.10 t4 housing. Part number 177248. I drove the truck today and it ran good until it blew the freeze plug out of the block.

We have a whole motor kit from Terry sittin and waiting to go together when my brothers 300,000 mile motor finnally decieds to let go,. Supposably this kit we be sweet. 14 to1 compression, a big cam that i dont know what size it is but required somewhere in the neigborhood of .250 valve reliefs. Takes a certain piston with real low ring lands.
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freeze plugs blowing out been there done that. electric w.p. and fan. let me know i got a good price on electric w.p. pm me for price.

how much for the s400sx ? id like to see that 24valve ppumped truck pull got any video's on you tube of it?
 
save your money on the Electric WP...they have their place but I am turning 5k off the line and as high as 4400 on the track and with just a coolant bypass set-up I am not blowing freeze plugs, even with extremely high EGT's. i've modded my water pump so it doesnt build as much pressure and run the bypass, it works nice and helps the coolant flow from back by #6 by putting it back in the rad. the motor cools down nice and quick after a run.

also I run nearly the same charger you posted specs about, except I have a T4 1.10 housing and it works well but you have to keep it above 3500 like stated or it will snuff it.
 
Also, the electric pump will more than likely go bad in short order...mine did at least:(

Absolutely no vendor help from it either!!!
Chris
 
Signature600 said:
Also, the electric pump will more than likely go bad in short order...mine did at least:(

Absolutely no vendor help from it either!!!
Chris
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hence why I am still running the stocker with clipped fins and a bypass. tho i think its time to ditch the fan and get e-fans to reduce some parasitic loss. cheap e-fans, none of that expensive stuff.
 
I went back to a stocker with a bypass...no problems yet, still turning her 4500+...but not as often as you sledpullers.

Chris
 
yeah gas on it said:
freeze plugs blowing out been there done that. electric w.p. and fan. let me know i got a good price on electric w.p. pm me for price.

how much for the s400sx ? id like to see that 24valve ppumped truck pull got any video's on you tube of it?
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I allready run dual electric fans because of my ATI damper. I am going to clip the fins for now on the stocker. I am still running the stock dash so i cant tell you how many rpms it blew out at but it was well past 4k. The turbo was $1000 bucks to me from my local diesel shop who deals directly with Borg. I wanted this one because i can call up and order stock housings in a .90, 1.0 or 1.25 if i want to try the others.

My first pull is supposed to be wednesday at macon county fair if i get the freeze plug done. So no i dont have any videos yet.
 
getblown5.9 said:
hence why I am still running the stocker with clipped fins and a bypass. tho i think its time to ditch the fan and get e-fans to reduce some parasitic loss. cheap e-fans, none of that expensive stuff.
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Cheap fans, I bought to 15" fans acoording to flexalites spec for our trucks other than the fancy kit. It was like 80 dollars for both but the stock wireing is junk so i bought a 50amp snowplow selanoid and wired it in with a toggle switch in the cab to activate the selanoid They pull 36 amps when runnng so i used 10gauge wire with the ground directly to the battery. The positive to the selanoid and then the selanoid to the battery. The two small post on it is one for a ground and one the activation from the toggle switch. Probabbly about 150$ total and works great.
 
ILLINOISRAM said:
Cheap fans, I bought to 15" fans acoording to flexalites spec for our trucks other than the fancy kit. It was like 80 dollars for both but the stock wireing is junk so i bought a 50amp snowplow selanoid and wired it in with a toggle switch in the cab to activate the selanoid They pull 36 amps when runnng so i used 10gauge wire with the ground directly to the battery. The positive to the selanoid and then the selanoid to the battery. The two small post on it is one for a ground and one the activation from the toggle switch. Probabbly about 150$ total and works great.
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can you get me some info on the fans? where did you get them, model numbers etc?

how do you mount them to the rad?
 
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