Mis-Matched? No longer.

Small exhaust leak in one port on my manifold absolutely killed mine.

And yes, fills when hot/expands, gets sucked back up when it cools.
 
madmikeismad said:
Small exhaust leak in one port on my manifold absolutely killed mine.

And yes, fills when hot/expands, gets sucked back up when it cools.
Click to expand...

yeah,knew that... But only on load it spits out, so, gasket.... we shall see. maybe ill do a head stud re torque
 
If it's already pushing that bad the head gasket might be screwed

Good luck man.

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2
 
hot pipe will not affect low-end spool up as its only using the secondary. It will affect top-end and primary boost.
A leak in the engine or exhaust side before the turbo will affect its performance.
as will a leak in the compressor side in the IC piping, like a blown boot or cracked IC, intake gasket, ect..

because you added the lip on the turbo outlet, you should only have to change the clamp. The pipe should keep its alignment.
 
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If that clamp is bottoming out they might have pooched the machining, in the image it looks thin to me. Has to be tight no question.

I wouldn't waste my time on a retorque if the gasket is suspect.

You had a gasket blow between cylinders before? That's just nasty, the block was found true?
 
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If the flange is too thin, You can have someone cut a shim ring with the same angles as the HX 40 flange(or whatever you have) and then cut it in half. Lay the 2 halves on the flange and put the clamp back on.
 
TURBOLVR said:
hot pipe will not affect low-end spool up as its only using the secondary. It will affect top-end and primary boost.
A leak in the engine or exhaust side before the turbo will affect its performance.
as will a leak in the compressor side in the IC piping, like a blown boot or cracked IC, intake gasket, ect..

because you added the lip on the turbo outlet, you should only have to change the clamp. The pipe should keep its alignment.
Click to expand...

Boost is a tad slower, runs good till 40 then the popping noises and falls flat.

I went over the boots and they look good (while install). No obvious cracks. I'll have to do a pressure test I suppose.

I sent ya a pm



Joesixpack said:
If that clamp is bottoming out they might have pooched the machining, in the image it looks thin to me. Has to be tight no question.

I wouldn't waste my time on a retorque if the gasket is suspect.

You had a gasket blow between cylinders before? That's just nasty, the block was found true?
Click to expand...

The two flanges look identical. The replacement clamp I found for the one I lost couldn't of been right. I never bottomed on the V but the screw around the circumference is apparently now bottomed. Every other clamp has never bottom out the screw.


Yeah, had the gasket broke between 5 and 6 i think with original gasket and bolts, but we just bolted a new gasket in place, several years ago.
 
I had to O ring my head and switch to a modified 12 valve head gasket. My MLS gasket wouldn't hold under boost and blow coolant, but would be fine under normal driving conditions. Sounded like a popping, or a loud rattling under load.
 
cbtoyz said:
I had to O ring my head and switch to a modified 12 valve head gasket. My MLS gasket wouldn't hold under boost and blow coolant, but would be fine under normal driving conditions. Sounded like a popping, or a loud rattling under load.
Click to expand...

Tried bigger studs and tighter torque on the studs?
 
I could not keep a mls intact with arp 2000's once drive pressure neared 90 psi. Your could have. That popping is preesure jumping from once cylinder to the next. And the fact that coolant is "missing" is anothr dead giveaway.
 
Jason, haven't you checked the oil for coolant and vice versa?
Maybe a leak down test?
 
cquestad said:
I could not keep a mls intact with arp 2000's once drive pressure neared 90 psi. Your could have. That popping is preesure jumping from once cylinder to the next. And the fact that coolant is "missing" is anothr dead giveaway.
Click to expand...

ill keep an eye on that gauge. i fear tge gasket.

meh.

the big question is, just rebuild the head, gasket, springs, etc. if the pistons are good, keep it simple.

or do an entire short block as well. at 178,000 it sounds like its smart to do the entire motor.


,
 
If it has failed, and again between cylinders your just about guaranteed the block is low there. In that case your pulling the block and getting the deck surfaced.

Don't even think about orings, stick with the MLS.
 
JasonCzerak said:
ill keep an eye on that gauge. i fear tge gasket.

meh.

the big question is, just rebuild the head, gasket, springs, etc. if the pistons are good, keep it simple.

or do an entire short block as well. at 178,000 it sounds like its smart to do the entire motor.


,
Click to expand...

Ummmm....hell no! Don't touch the short block if the pistons look good and the oil analysis looks good. Springs...valve job...check seats and guides...deck it and check the block in the truck.

I personally love o rings...not sure why JSP doesn't?
 
We have made over 1500hp on an mls gasket, copper coat, with 12mm 625 studs. Good machined surfaces are all you need to keep the gasket in place.

If you have lost a gasket, I would be checking the surface and likely pulling the motor to have it surfaced.
 
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