My cam looks like ch!t!!!!! Why??

[KILLER 'B']

I'm no oil expert but I run Rotella T Syn and have been doing so around 20-30k. What's wrong with synthetic?

I ran synthetic before cam install last year, was very happy with it, would like to go back but i wasnt sure what the cam guys recommended, but Zach, PMed me after that question and said there wasnt a problem with that...

I just say if it aint broke, don't fix it.. It seems like synthetics have a super hard time dealing with combustion by-products and fuel dilution..

Here's an engine that ran royal purple... Who ordered the grape jelly?

 

[Boostediesel]

I just say if it aint broke, don't fix it.. It seems like synthetics have a super hard time dealing with combustion by-products and fuel dilution..

Here's an engine that ran royal purple... Who ordered the grape jelly?

i run Royal Purple. i had to pull apart my motor because i had a valve seat take out on of my pistons and my motor looked nothing like that, it was clean, no sludge build up or burnt oil in my pan, or on any of the rotating assembly. do you know the history of that motor? because it looks like someone just put the oil in and never did an oil change after that. and i have never heard people having problems with synthetics.

 

[KILLER 'B']

i run Royal Purple. i had to pull apart my motor because i had a valve seat take out on of my pistons and my motor looked nothing like that, it was clean, no sludge build up or burnt oil in my pan, or on any of the rotating assembly. do you know the history of that motor? because it looks like someone just put the oil in and never did an oil change after that. and i have never heard people having problems with synthetics.

The engine was a duramax that sled pulled occasionally. Oil was changed every 5 when driving and every sledpull..

P.S.: Just because you never heard of problems with synthetics doesn't mean there is none.. $.02

 

[Boostediesel]

wow, i usually go 10k between oil changes, but i dont sled pull. just out of curiosity did that motor ever get really hot?i know alot of guys running Royal,Amsoil, and Mobil 1 that have serious high horsepower machines, diesels too, and have not had something like that happen.

 

[j-rod]

don't run a synthetic

LOL

 

[Hamilton Cams]

I have been running rotella synthetic with our zinc additive inmine lately. Popped the top recently and it looks as clean as the day I assembled the engine. I agree that there might be some synthetics that might not handle the soot levels we run, however to make a blanket statement that synthetics are no good is going a bit far. Do you have an analysis on that funk?

Zach

 

[oldsmokey97]

just because you did something doesn't mean it's right..

Just sayin that there has been no problems soo far. which is kinda what this thread was ACTUALLY supposed to be about before it started out in the direction that every other cam thread does.

Lance

 

[bsmith]

It doesn't matter how good of oil you use.

If you have a aftermarket charger and larger injectors or more fuel. You can't go 10k, because the soot levels will be too much.

2-3k oil changes are due with a heavily fueled truck.

 

[mcspeed.1]

As stated earlier in this thread the EPA did change up the formulations on the PCMOs and the HDEOs that are sold on the open market. Everyone and there brother in the racing industry has focused on the fact that the removal of the zinc from the formulation HAS been the prime cause of camshaft and other internal wear. It has only been ONE of the causes; there have been many other minor changes to the formulations that have kept your oil from performing like the older oil packages. There is only one way to get your lubricating oil of today to work as well or better than the oils of yesterday and that is to use an oil additive for high performance. I know for a fact there is one product on the market that works better than anything I have seen in the last 35 years (and we need it more than ever right NOW!) and that product is called rev-x. They claim the harder you use the oil and additive the better it works, believe it because it's true. Many people on this site have tried it and I haven’t heard one bad review of it. I heard Tim even tried it in his 12v! Ask him?

 

[displacedtexan]

As stated earlier in this thread the EPA did change up the formulations on the PCMOs and the HDEOs that are sold on the open market. Everyone and there brother in the racing industry has focused on the fact that the removal of the zinc from the formulation HAS been the prime cause of camshaft and other internal wear. It has only been ONE of the causes; there have been many other minor changes to the formulations that have kept your oil from performing like the older oil packages. There is only one way to get your lubricating oil of today to work as well or better than the oils of yesterday and that is to use an oil additive for high performance. I know for a fact there is one product on the market that works better than anything I have seen in the last 35 years (and we need it more than ever right NOW!) and that product is called rev-x. They claim the harder you use the oil and additive the better it works, believe it because it's true. Many people on this site have tried it and I haven’t heard one bad review of it. I heard Tim even tried it in his 12v! Ask him?

How about you become a vendor instead of trying to sneak in and sell your snake oil?

So this stuff works wonders in oil and cleans injectors? What else does it do? Can I just PM you to buy it?

 

[mcspeed.1]

No sneakin anywhere man! I don't sell it, but that's not a bad idea after what I've seen it do. I do know the guys at the company because i've been using it for seems like 3 years now. Just sayin check it out.

 

[displacedtexan]

If that's all it is then cool. I just noticed all of your posts were pushing it, and I'm sure you can see how that would look more than a little fishy

 

[Bersaglieri]

Wow, I was expecting to see something a little worse. I can't see the part as well as I would like, but it looks like it is serviceable. Cummins has a great photo set to identify if a cam is still usable. I have the photos on disk and can try and get them resized and posted. They are over 40 megs in size each. It might take me a few days to get that done.

A couple of things for anyone wanting to know:

IF that is a pit in the second photo on the first lobe......and if that exceeds 2mm's in length the cam is not reusable as is.

Some pitting is acceptable, but here are the guidelines:

1. no single pit should exceed 2mm's in diameter.
2. single pits can't be connected to one another. multiple single pits are ok with the exceptions below:
3. the area of all pits can't exceed 6mm's total. an example would be if you have 7 pits and they are all 1mm's each. There are also criteria in the manual for edge wear/deterioration. It is a tougher standard and more in depth to explain on here.

This is all available in the B series Cummins engine service manual. For a reference; I have never seen it in the Dodge service manuals so to save you time, don't look buy one for this issue.

Hope this helps.

Please send the cam over and let me have a look at it. I am very good at determining what goes wrong and why in most cases on cam failures. if I can't do that with 100% certainty my grinder is the best I have seen at this.

Resized those pictures by chance? Also which B-series manual do you find those in. Got the part number?

-Dustin-