New to 6.7’s

It's like a carbon looking plastic. When they go bad and people keep going, the old metal impeller would then start to do it's own port work on the coolant passage. My 6.7 made it too like 118k mile on the oe water pump. It must of smelled the power central cummins shop off the interstate that day in Nebraska. Just so happened to be across the street from a napa too. I think my old 95 had the original water pump in it for 415k! Times have changed.
 
Interesting fellas, yeah knock on wood I’ve only had one 12v pump go bad and I must have well over a million on all of them..

I found a feller here local to the Phoenix area that does tuning. Said he does the engine with EFI and can do a 5 position switch and the trans gets done with HP tuners? I’ve talked to 3 guys that have had their trucks done by him and all were very happy and had their trucks for a decent amount of miles with no issues from their “tuning”.
The different platforms has me confused but whatever needs to happen. He said he builds 68’s to, so I’ll likely need him soon..

Anyone tried one of those cheap Amazon touch screen drop in radios on these turds? Mines fully functional but stock and no Bluetooth. Like 250$ and says it drops in and it’s just a CarPlay touchscreen. Their software is pretty open, if I could get one in there and functional wonder if I could get boost and pyro on a splash screen??

Or does anyone make a nice dash mount for normal style gauges that doesn’t look too hillbilly? I can’t stand that little screen on the window, I’ve almost ran my dog over 5 times now because my view was blocked..
 
I use a Bluetooth thingy in my headphone aux on the stocker.
That's what i ended up with was the 5 position switch. Hp on the tcm too. Any revmax approved tune should work. If yours has had a valve body, which I assume it definitely has if it has over 100k mile on the stocker ( the solenoid switch valve wears the bore out on the early non anodized vb). It should last pretty decent until it ****s a pin out of the planetary, flips the L/R sprag in it's race or burns the od pack. Other than those things and a few snap ring/ retainer issues they really aren't all that bad of a transmission!
 
95cummins5.9 said:
I use a Bluetooth thingy in my headphone aux on the stocker.
That's what i ended up with was the 5 position switch. Hp on the tcm too. Any revmax approved tune should work. If yours has had a valve body, which I assume it definitely has if it has over 100k mile on the stocker ( the solenoid switch valve wears the bore out on the early non anodized vb). It should last pretty decent until it ****s a pin out of the planetary, flips the L/R sprag in it's race or burns the od pack. Other than those things and a few snap ring/ retainer issues they really aren't all that bad of a transmission!
Click to expand...
Sounds about like all the new 6-8-10 speeds for me (General Motors). Basically set clutch travels and everything is serviced as sets. Valve body’s are a got dang mess for us right now.

I’ll likely end up pulling this one out after the summer and going in it. I’ve been reading and watching some videos already. Actually think you had a thread I read some on.

I ordered this https://a.co/d/eBVf1ML (hope a link works) I’ll let y’all know if it’s worth the scratch.
 
They're pretty easy. Some pump mods, bigger od drum, add extra clutches, updated sprag, retainers, input etc. Any questions when you get to it just reach out. I have a guy I can hook you up with for all the kits also, he's reasonable on prices.
 
ever do a belt on a 6.7.....when it hot from running down the intertate....yea..still got scars from that day
 
Water pump with metal impeller.

Aluminum Water Pump for Cummins by Bullet Proof Diesel

Billet aluminum water pump for 1989 - 2022 Ram Cummins Turbo Diesel - both 5.9L and 6.7L is manufactured by Bullet Proof Diesel and sold by Geno's Garage. Part number 90201228.
www.genosgarage.com

My buddy has 225k on his stock 68. I replaced the SSV right at 200k for him. He was quite sure that was only the second fluid change ever performed, and the fluid smelt/looked great. He tows HEAVY 50% of the time with that truck. I've been down right impressed with the longevity of that 68RE.
 
Yeah, we've got 190K on my old 2010...100K with me driving it doing God knows what to it, towing heavy, running hard, etc...and another 90K with a 70 year old at the wheel who loves to hear the straight pipe bark LOL

I think we changed the transmission fluid once or twice, and I put a headgasket in it at 98K...still running the H&S tune from 2012 timeframe since someone broke in and stole the tuner sometime around 2013 and I never worried about reflashing it with anything else!!

Guess we're on borrowed time!
Chris
 
Well, @smokinVE , I don't see a request to change your username to smokinCP3 yet. How the new truck going? Like it leave it?
 
Lol, I actually didn’t even drive it last week. I was in a customers problem truck. I have maybe 150 miles on it.

Had a local do the tuning with a 5 position switch. It’s fun but definitely needs more.

I still can’t get over how much it feels “heavy” like when I hit a big bump or rough spot. Hard to describe but coming from first and second gems it’s different.

Still not sold on it, i like it, i don’t love it. If it was 3-4” lower and was white I’d probably like it more.

Same shop that did the tuning is building me a turbo, so maybe I’ll be happier after it makes a little scoot.
 
These things need better CAC’a and pipes? Is sew there’s a few “drop in” kits wildly ranging in price. I’ll buy whatever. Also the intake horn? those also wildly range in price.

I finally dug my cts out so I can start to watch some temps. I need to put the probes in this weekend. I bought that damn thing a few years ago trying to log on my 96. Holley wouldn’t unlock the protocol for it so it’s been in the garage this whole time.
 
Not worth it with the factory turbo, that's your restriction. Bigger turbo there could a small benefit.

I love how guys put a banks intake horn on a newer model stock 6.7 and say they have better throttle response.
 
I disagree. I'd put a CAC on it. I run an AFE that I bought used off Snedge. I don't have any fancy intake horn but the EGR mess is all gone with a bypass adapter. Grid heater is intact. I still for the life of me don't get why people take them off on any vehicle driven on the street daily. If you are saying the CAC doesn't add enough air flow or hp to be noticeable them deleting the grid heater surely doesn't either. My $.02 I do have a Cheetah on the way for mine that will be installed at the end of the month. I can't wait to report back how dang amazing it is over stock....that's my hope anyway.
 
the grid htr bolt will def melt and fall into the intake..but ya dont need a kit..just take it apart and remove it..drill and tap for an npt plug.

firepunk did an intake horn test against the banks with a stock one on a 900 hp truck made 2 more hp i think...

i ditched the ccv..exp and once it deleted causes codes...

fleece coolant bypass..once ya see one apart youll know why...
 
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