pcs help

There is a function that is called copy calibration on the top of the page "calibration/tuning" use a digital input to trigger it. The way to load a file is send calibration to TCU under communications.
 
Tim Im sending you my most current loaded file and a new datalog. Ive been following this thread and it seems Im having the same issues with TCC lockup, but only after the truck has been running for a half hour or so. No Coolant temp hooked up so Im not sure what the programming is doing to trigger it.

Taylor W.
 
Look in the TCC section and there will be a setting like always unlock TCC under this temp and always lock TCC over this temp. Most Peoples Data Logs show NO TACH RPM , this is an input I need to see where your engines are running in which gears, I can not see or hear your trucks running from here...
 
Look in the TCC section and there will be a setting like always unlock TCC under this temp and always lock TCC over this temp. Most Peoples Data Logs show NO TACH RPM , this is an input I need to see where your engines are running in which gears, I can not see or hear your trucks running from here...

Yep, Keep TCC locked is at 232 degrees and "Dont lock TC below this fluid temp is 120. So Im assuming the TCC starts to lock up funny after the Trans gets to 120(duh). I need to find a way to get my TCC to unlock, I know you insist that the best way is off the brake light. To be honest It would be nice if the TC would lock only in 4th gear after 48-50mph like my dodge and unlock under that for normal street driving. Getting a WOT tune to lock the converter in 2nd gear and up while racing would be ideal.

I've been getting tach on my PCS around 750RPM on a common rail which seems right.

The speedometer on the PCS reads about 5-6 MPH high though which is messing with my gear table I feel like.

If it wasnt raining and ****ty out, I would get a fresh datalog, but its to sketchy to spool the truck up in this crap.

ETA: Before "Sending the file is easier" is said- I know!
 
I will send you a modified file based on this post..The WOT will need a second cal input with a switch.

Tim
 
after contacting pcs, I tried changing both the gear ratio or tire size in the transmission setup/speed inputs section and still does not help correct the monitor speed to match my actual speed. Tim, I did try to switch the wiring for the VSS and it did not help. So, I had bought a diesel trans that was supposed to be a 95, my trans builder said it was an earlier version. I had bought a new MLPS to put on that matched my truck year (97). Is there an issue with the different years of E4OD's and their MLPS, just wondering if all my issues are because of a different pin position in the wiring??? Any ideas
 
anyone that has hooked up a pcs, where did you tap into the VSS? Had a guy tell me to hook right by the cruise control servo because the signal is better, just wondering
 
Connecting to the VSS wire could be your problem- the vss signal is a different type of signal - the PCS just needs a raw speed sensor signal, so use the rear diff sensor and see how that does. Connect (just "y" onto it) the pink/red Ford wire (I think that's the color, but could be wrong) to the orange/red PCS wire. The other Ford wire to the black/white PCS wire. There are a lot of ways you can configure the speed inputs as well. I typically use the non-calculated, raw signal with differential speed inputs- but it can be done with the calculated input as well. Your MLPS shouldn't be an issue as long as it matches your harness, as it must if it plugs in.
 
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Connecting to the VSS wire could be your problem- the vss signal is a different type of signal - the PCS just needs a raw speed sensor signal, so use the rear diff sensor and see how that does. Connect (just "y" onto it) the pink/red Ford wire (I think that's the color, but could be wrong) to the orange/red PCS wire. The other Ford wire to the black/white PCS wire. There are a lot of ways you can configure the speed inputs as well. I typically use the non-calculated, raw signal with differential speed inputs- but it can be done with the calculated input as well. Your MLPS shouldn't be an issue as long as it matches your harness, as it must if it plugs in.

the rear diff sensor is what I'm tapped into, sorry maybe I am wrong with the terms. I am getting a reading on the pcs monitor, its just way off. I will do 20 and the monitor says 7, trans won't shift to 3rd until 16mph, so I think that's my problem. I had switched the wires also, but it didn't work any better. Where do you configure the speed inputs on the program?
 
The speed signal settings are in the "transmission setup" folder- "speed inputs/gearing chart". I'm guessing that your speed input is configured as a non-calculated signal since when you changed the gear ratio and tire size it didn't help. If that is the case, next to your "driven wheels speed" you will see "speed 2" or "speed 3". With this config, you can lower the pulses per rev number for your "driven wheels speed" and that should increase your speed value.

If the "driven wheels speed" is set to "calculated" then it is all in the gear ratio and tire size and perhaps the change you made before just didn't stick for some reason.

That's about as much detail as I can give you for free on that- hope that helps!
 
The speed signal settings are in the "transmission setup" folder- "speed inputs/gearing chart". I'm guessing that your speed input is configured as a non-calculated signal since when you changed the gear ratio and tire size it didn't help. If that is the case, next to your "driven wheels speed" you will see "speed 2" or "speed 3". With this config, you can lower the pulses per rev number for your "driven wheels speed" and that should increase your speed value.

If the "driven wheels speed" is set to "calculated" then it is all in the gear ratio and tire size and perhaps the change you made before just didn't stick for some reason.

That's about as much detail as I can give you for free on that- hope that helps!

I appreciate it, who do you work for?
 
Made some progress, someone told me to adjust the driveshaft rpm and after fooling with that, it is now set to 42 instead of 100 and the speedo on the laptop is almost perfect to the I/p. Unfortunately, that did not help my no shift issues. So I took of the Range Sensor and checked to make sure it was the correct one that I had bought, it was, so I cleaned it out again and reinstalled it. The next morning I had to drive uptown and for whatever reason the trans is shifting better. I have to let off a little to get to the next gear, but its some progress.
 
still trying to figure out the shifting, has anyone had the issue of having to let off to get it to shift up? Also, does anyone know a place to get a tune done and adjusted to my preferences in southeast Michigan?
 
Plug your laptop into the truck and while you are driving click on view all up shifts and downshifts and adjust them yourself while you are driving, you will see where your shift points are and it will live tune it as you make adjustments.
 
thanks, going to try it this weekend. Do I have to save the file once I modify it and unhook the laptop?
 
no it will modify the file live in the truck as you change it while you are connected so you don't have to load it after you make the adjustments.
 
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