Ram50

Thanks 95cummins5.9... seems to narrow the results.

I have been thinking about the crankcase ventilation. After searching, I didn't see anything on here compared to what I've seen on some pro street trucks. I noticed while at Schieds, on some pro street trucks, several places on the engine were vented to a catch can.

Is this particular arrangement required by certain tracks or sanctioning bodies, etc...??

I realize that very high boost pressures could result in oil on the track from the crankcase. So, at the very least, I would want this for safety.

Would it be acceptable to run the crankcase vent to the exhaust, as I've seen posted on here, and forgo the catch can? With the amount of heavy particulates leaving the stack anyway, a little crankcase misting surely wouldn't hurt??

Also, I have personally seen several variations of venting on pulling trucks. Some trucks might have three, another truck might have ten points (no kidding) of venting places. Is there a general rule or should I go for 11? LOL
 
You're thinking about all of this already?? Most worry about it when their dipstick comes flying out and oil goes everywhere. LOL
 
Bodacious said:
Thanks 95cummins5.9... seems to narrow the results.

I have been thinking about the crankcase ventilation. After searching, I didn't see anything on here compared to what I've seen on some pro street trucks. I noticed while at Schieds, on some pro street trucks, several places on the engine were vented to a catch can.

Is this particular arrangement required by certain tracks or sanctioning bodies, etc...??

I realize that very high boost pressures could result in oil on the track from the crankcase. So, at the very least, I would want this for safety.

Would it be acceptable to run the crankcase vent to the exhaust, as I've seen posted on here, and forgo the catch can? With the amount of heavy particulates leaving the stack anyway, a little crankcase misting surely wouldn't hurt??

Also, I have personally seen several variations of venting on pulling trucks. Some trucks might have three, another truck might have ten points (no kidding) of venting places. Is there a general rule or should I go for 11? LOL
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I have a BMW secondary air pump that pulls through a catch can, then vents to a pitot in the down pipe. It does a good job of keeping crankcase pressure and oil leaks to a minumum. Probably the best you can do without going to a mechancal vacuum pump.
 
Thanks Drothgeb. I google'd the BMW secondary air pump. I like it. I need to do some research to check the weight. I haven't given much consideration to a vacuum pull such as this.

I was hoping to just set up a simple little system without adding too much weight. I was wondering if you or anyone else would care to post up some pics of your catch cans. Or, if a fella wanted to build one, how would you go about it? I was thinking originally of just dumping into the exhaust. Now, however, if something went wrong to the point a large amount of oil was pulled from the engine say at the 1000' mark or so, it could make things slick for the next person to run. So, I think I'll go ahead and set up a catch can and I like the idea of pulling through it either with the BMW secondary air pump or just the exhaust vacuum.
 
stock600 said:
I did the opposite and reinforced the piss out of the frame because I knew what was coming for torque, Id think that you have weakened it to the point that it Will Fail. Just my opinion, I hope I'm wrong.

There's No torsional strength in that frame at all, at this point Id cut that stuff out and replace it with the correct CM tubing, that's a death trap at speed.......

Tucker
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I fully agree with this post above. I think you just plasma cut most of the integrity out of the main support structure for the cage that is supposed to protect you. I certainly do not wish you any harm, but I hope you rethink this..........
 
With a catch can, you want baffles to knock the fluid out of the gas and also use a series of screens, stainless wool or stainless chips(drill cuttings) for the fluids to clingto and settle out of the gas. Also increasing velocity and slinging fluid outward is an option, a lot of auto manufacturers used this method, and you can feed a drain to the crank case and suck the air out of the center.
There are a million ways to do it.
Google calan catch can, he has several cut away views of his stuff and dsm guys swear by them (catch cans are a necessity on a dsm. )
 
I guess maybe in the pictures it looks worse than it is. Or maybe the pics don't quite do it justice.

As stated earlier, the addition of the cage has now triangulated everything. Also, all the load points (except front spring hangers) on the frame have a point of intersection with the cage. Therefore, when a load is applied, the force of the load is distributed throughout the cage and the frame is no longer acted on by the bending moment but rather becomes a tension member. Granted, without the cage, the frame would fail.

If you take a closer look at the hole pattern you will notice the holes are staggered from inside to outside. The purpose was to leave a modest amount of cross sectional area anywhere you cut the frame and calculated the cross sectional area.

The normal rectangular tubing used for say a back half or a rectangular tube chassis is 2x3x.085 wall mild steel. At this frames smallest point, even with the holes cut, the cross sectional area is more than triple that of the aforementioned 2x3 due to the .125" wall thickness.

So, technically, even with the holes, and in a tension load, this frame is three times as strong as the 2x3.

Both stock600 & RacinDuallie are correct in saying I should have just gone with some CM round or 2x3. I had no plans in the beginning of getting this crazy on weight reduction. Had I thought it through, I could have saved at least another 40-50lbs by going with the 2x3 and probably cost myself less work.

So anyways, does this mean you fellas don't want to take a ride with me.:evil
 
Impact loading is spread out. I sure hope that me and Tucker are wrong.....And I am in no way knockin ya- I just don't want to see a fella get hurt.
 
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Bodacious said:
I guess maybe in the pictures it looks worse than it is. Or maybe the pics don't quite do it justice.

As stated earlier, the addition of the cage has now triangulated everything. Also, all the load points (except front spring hangers) on the frame have a point of intersection with the cage. Therefore, when a load is applied, the force of the load is distributed throughout the cage and the frame is no longer acted on by the bending moment but rather becomes a tension member. Granted, without the cage, the frame would fail.

If you take a closer look at the hole pattern you will notice the holes are staggered from inside to outside. The purpose was to leave a modest amount of cross sectional area anywhere you cut the frame and calculated the cross sectional area.

The normal rectangular tubing used for say a back half or a rectangular tube chassis is 2x3x.085 wall mild steel. At this frames smallest point, even with the holes cut, the cross sectional area is more than triple that of the aforementioned 2x3 due to the .125" wall thickness.

So, technically, even with the holes, and in a tension load, this frame is three times as strong as the 2x3.

Both stock600 & RacinDuallie are correct in saying I should have just gone with some CM round or 2x3. I had no plans in the beginning of getting this crazy on weight reduction. Had I thought it through, I could have saved at least another 40-50lbs by going with the 2x3 and probably cost myself less work.

So anyways, does this mean you fellas don't want to take a ride with me.:evil
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You sound like a smart fellow just keep a close eye on it after the first couple burn outs and launches, I think if it's going to fail you will notice it move on the very first pass. I hope it works out well for you though. These projects almost always start in one direction and progress into much more as one get deep into them.

And ya I'd have to pass on the ride, lol. I've had some race cars that were a handful for sure. Boneshaker probably being the craziest, although my current blown/inj. 1100hp back half 260Z has it's moments to, it helps a lot that I'm running a 33x17x15 tire under it.

Good luck, keep those pictures coming.

Tucker
 
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...finished the floor boards, installed the seats and got the throttle hooked up.

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...completed the bed mounting, built some wheel tubs and mounted the rear shocks.

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Time to get the radiator ordered. Any suggestions on what size to go with? It will mount in the back and we are going to bend out some aluminum tubing to carry the fluid to the front which should aid a little in cooling.

Measuring across the x in the back, a 24" square radiator would look real nice. I could go bigger if necessary.
 
Based on the fact that there are filled block drag race setups, with sufficient cooling time, you don't really need a radiator.

On the other end of the spectrum, my 95' Junker Drag truck with stock Cummins/Dodge Ram coolant system controlling 700 rwhp was good for back to back hot-laps average 5 minutes total between time slips when it was 95*F here in Las Vegas late one night at the track.

In my opinion, radiator size is going to depend 100% on how much you plan to street drive the truck while hot-rodding and using lots of horsepower. Or if you plan to do a Pinks all out or similar race event with hot lapping. As radical as you've gone with the race modifications, I'd guess a 24" radiator would be plenty!!! No sense carrying around an extra 20-30 lbs of coolant in a monster sized radiator.
 
Thanks again Big Blue24. I like the way your thinking. On Friday night test & tunes, I want to be able to do two or three passes back to back without cool down. On race days, their is always enough time to cool. Street wise, as you probably know, full power blast will probably be limited by traction. Any other driving will probably be the egg between the pedal and foot deal to limit smoke.

Speaking of smoke, how would you or anyone else feel about running some 5x22? 23? 24? 25? injectors????? Also, who do you all recommend I purchase these injectors from. I'd prefer someone over here in the east if possible.

Another fine piece from Spin'er Tight Machine & Fab.

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I can shift some gears now too.

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We mounted pretty much everything.

Had to grind the crap out of the block to make room for the little alternator.

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The sun was out yesterday so we rolled 'er out for a little vitamin E.

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...just had to go for one of the cool shift knobs.

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Nothing like rolling one out of the shop for it's first time, I've always loves that feeling on a new build. I hope it does well for you, have fun with it.

Tucker
 
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