Rebirth of Monster Mudder

Well, had the next to last mud run today, didn't do as well as I wanted in my class, the pit sucked dog balls, was a long day of pulling one truck out after another.

I lined up, used the transbrake to build up 15psi of boost and launched, ran down to 161.9 feet that put me in 4th place for class 2, liked just another foot or two to trigger the lights. From the video, I've got plenty of fuel now, but was only getting 30 psi of boost during the whole run, it was slow enough I could watch the gauge, did hit 2k on the pyro there at the end when I shut it down.

Here is the video of my class 2 run.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fzW2SneUCQw"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fzW2SneUCQw[/ame]

For my class 3 run, I jury rigged and blocked off the lines to the wastegate, but in doing so, I blocked off my gauge too. Truck seemed to do a little better, I managed to get a time in this run of 9.70

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eBjr-o1CI70"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eBjr-o1CI70[/ame]

Trying to figure out why I'm not getting the boost that I should, think I'm going to pull off the wastegate and make sure it's working correctly and look over the whole system to make sure I don't have a leak somewhere.
 
My first guess with it being that hot, and no boost is a boost leak, pressurize the whole system, it will make it a lot quicker finding it.

The truck looks right on the verge of being a contender. Hope you get it sorted and find that first place finish.
 
Yeah, I've been really happy with it overall for the whole season, it's turned alot of heads for sure. I definitely need to lighten the truck more.

Wheels are a definate need for next year, bet I have 30 lbs of mud in each stock wheel. Getting rid of the rear drum brakes is another. There are a few brackets and braces that need to be cut off or reworked to keep them from collecting mud. The intercooler isn't doing a thing for the truck, think I'm going to switch to water/air intercooler next year. Want to swap bodies as well.
 
Well, I've been playing with the truck quite a bit this week trying to figure out what's going on with the low boost and finally got it through my head that I just wasn't loading the engine enough to make it work. I've been making passes in my pasture each night playing with it and from launch to end of 1st, I'm at 20psi, at the end of second, I'm at 30psi and at the end of 3rd, I'm at 40psi. This is in low range. I did some test runs in high range last night, and I'm at 40psi at the end of 2nd now and doing about 60 to 70 mph across my hay meadow.

So for my final race, I'm going to try running it in 4x4 high and seeing if I can load the engine better on launch and through the pit and pickup wheel speed.

I did some calculations based upon my gearing, tire size, transfercase etc... to see what wheel speeds should be at different rpms and gears.

tire size 37.00
inches per mile 63360.00
tire circumference 116.18
transmission 1st gear ratio 2.48
transmission 2nd gear ratio 1.48
transmission 3rd gear ratio 1.00
transfer case high ratio 1.00
transfer case low ratio 1.98
differential ratio 3.55

Engine RPMs 1000.00 1500.00 2000.00 2500.00 3000.00 3500.00 4000.00
1st Gear High Range 12.50 18.74 24.99 31.24 37.49 43.74 49.99
2nd Gear High Range 20.94 31.41 41.88 52.35 62.82 73.29 83.76
3rd Gear High Range 30.99 46.49 61.98 77.48 92.97 108.47 123.97

1st Gear Low Range 6.31 9.47 12.62 15.78 18.93 22.09 25.25
2nd Gear Low Range 10.58 15.86 21.15 26.44 31.73 37.02 42.30
3rd Gear Low Range 15.65 23.48 31.30 39.13 46.96 54.78 62.61


1st low range gear multiplier 17.43192
1st high range gear multiplier 8.804

2nd low range gear multiplier 10.40292
2nd high range gear multiplier 5.254

The gear multipliers are a little low for high range, but will have to see I guess.
 
Yup they really do thrive with load. It is why making a decent dyno number, on a no load dyno is so difficult with them.

Hopefully some extra load and wheel speed will be just the ticket.
 
Well, had the final races of the season today. Truck made it all year without blowing up, crapping out or melting down. I'm one happy camper and want to thank the folks at Pure Diesel Power and Joe for a great engine and the help they gave me. Also want to thank California Performance Transmissions and Art Carr for the th400 and Converter, it held up through all the races, though I think I hurt it today, reverse is almost gone in it now.

Here is the run down. In class 2, I ran in 4x4 high for the first time, launched on the transbrake at 25psi, pit was full of nasty thick mud, it's bad when you can see the perfect ruts of the truck that ran through it before you. the 4x4 high run finally loaded the truck where I saw 50psi boost and the wastegate actually opened. Made it 130.5 feet through the pit, for a 3rd place finish out of 10 trucks.

Here is the run:

http://youtu.be/l_Mub77j4dk

I ran a second time in Class 3, didn't place in it, but I made a full run this time through. I launched again with the transbrake at 30psi in 4x4 high hitting 50psi after launch.

Here is the video:

http://youtu.be/Ov7PJzJ_aI0

Now starts the planning for next season. I know for sure that I'm switching from Air to Air intercooled to a Water to Air intercooler. Also changing the rear brakes from drum to discs. I want to do the body swap too and loose some more weight in the truck. Then I need to figure out what tires I'll be running and adjust the gearing in the truck to better load the engine, but allow the trans to last. I'm going to ship the trans back to Art Carr and have it checked out and freshened up as well as seeing if I can get the torque converter tighter than the 24-2600 stall. Been talking with Joe and we are going to change my tube intake to make it feed air in from the rear of the engine and I'm going to put the W2A cooler in the cab under the dash. Also planning on moving the batteries to the back and the radiator. I think I'm going to switch delivery valves from full cuts to some SDX comp DV's and look at different injectors and see if I can find a pump shop to have my pump benched. Lots of plans, just need to get a shop here on the farm built first.
 
Did you run 2nd gear high range? On the class 3 run where you made it through the pit, it almost looked like you could have gone for another gear. As I'm sure you're aware, these diesels aren't like a gasser and you actually have enough torque to grab a gear in the middle of the pit when you need more wheel speed.



When you get your pump benched, make sure you step up to some 5.5K RPM springs so you can run 4800-5000 rpm when you encounter conditions that call for more wheel speed.

Congrats on the 2nd place overall!
 
Yes, I was in 2nd gear just feet off the line on both runs. It wouldn't have pulled 3rd gear high range.

I'm looking at bumping up the gsk in it as well as an option to get more tire speed. I need to raise the gear multipler in high range or lower it in low range, so I'll be figuring out what tires and gears I'll be running as well. Alot is going to depend on how much weight I can shave off the truck. It's around 5400lbs right now, I want to try to get it to 4000lbs before next season, don't know if it's possible but I'm going to give it a good shot. I've got 6 months before next race season to get it all figured out. I'm waiting on quotes right now for a 30x50 pole barn.

Here is the plan I've got laid out right now.
6204383816_b45b443f06_z.jpg


It's not what I wanted, but I think it will make a good phase 1 start, this part of the building will eventually be heated and cooled, I'm going to build a second shop building 40x60 attached to it eventually for all the farm equipment and other items.
 
i know you like that other body but wouldnt lightening up the body you already have with a fiber glass front clip and doors be lighter?
 
yes a fiberglass front clip and doors would be lighter than what's currently on there, but I've seen what happens to fiberglass panels when they hit the wall of the pit, I've hit the side once already, I've also seen a complete fiberglass body truck decentegrate when it flipped.

I loaded the cab of that 46 power wagon by myself tonight, probably weighs around 300 to 350lbs, doors maybe 35 to 40lbs each. The nose with the radiator in it was pretty heavy, but the radiator won't be in it when I'm done. You have to remember, those old bodies are only single layers of sheet metal, it's a little thicker, but the modern cabs have all that bracing and tripple layers to make the panels up.
 
I think I mentioned it earlier this thread, but try to find some stock GM alloys or some older American Racing Outlaw II's. The the GM wheels are close to the same width as the stock Dodge wheels and Outlaws's seem to be found on alot of 90's GM's and usually were narrow. Just an idea to lose a few pounds now that you're spending money again.

But on the whole this is awesome, I wish we had more time to get our diesel off-road toy out more.
 
NakeDiesel said:
yes a fiberglass front clip and doors would be lighter than what's currently on there, but I've seen what happens to fiberglass panels when they hit the wall of the pit, I've hit the side once already, I've also seen a complete fiberglass body truck decentegrate when it flipped.

I loaded the cab of that 46 power wagon by myself tonight, probably weighs around 300 to 350lbs, doors maybe 35 to 40lbs each. The nose with the radiator in it was pretty heavy, but the radiator won't be in it when I'm done. You have to remember, those old bodies are only single layers of sheet metal, it's a little thicker, but the modern cabs have all that bracing and tripple layers to make the panels up.
Click to expand...
That makes sense. I think the strength of it depends on how it is made. Witht he large 2.5 ton class (Im sure you have heard of TGW) we have around here Ive seen some bodys survive roll overs with just a couple of small cracks and others like you said flop around and come appart in pieces.
 
Here is a video I put together of all the races I have recorded for the 2011 season.

http://youtu.be/ivqnAEbV3xo

I'm not sure what I'm going to end up doing for next season yet. I want to do the body conversion just because I think it will look good, but I'm going to have to wait and see if I can get my shop built and it up and going. I may just end up refreshing the transmission and doing some other things to lighten it up more for next season and a gearing change.
 
NakeDiesel said:
Well, had the final races of the season today. Truck made it all year without blowing up, crapping out or melting down. I'm one happy camper and want to thank the folks at Pure Diesel Power and Joe for a great engine and the help they gave me. Also want to thank California Performance Transmissions and Art Carr for the th400 and Converter, it held up through all the races, though I think I hurt it today, reverse is almost gone in it now.

Here is the run down. In class 2, I ran in 4x4 high for the first time, launched on the transbrake at 25psi, pit was full of nasty thick mud, it's bad when you can see the perfect ruts of the truck that ran through it before you. the 4x4 high run finally loaded the truck where I saw 50psi boost and the wastegate actually opened. Made it 130.5 feet through the pit, for a 3rd place finish out of 10 trucks.

Here is the run:

http://youtu.be/l_Mub77j4dk

I ran a second time in Class 3, didn't place in it, but I made a full run this time through. I launched again with the transbrake at 30psi in 4x4 high hitting 50psi after launch.

Here is the video:

http://youtu.be/Ov7PJzJ_aI0

Now starts the planning for next season. I know for sure that I'm switching from Air to Air intercooled to a Water to Air intercooler. Also changing the rear brakes from drum to discs. I want to do the body swap too and loose some more weight in the truck. Then I need to figure out what tires I'll be running and adjust the gearing in the truck to better load the engine, but allow the trans to last. I'm going to ship the trans back to Art Carr and have it checked out and freshened up as well as seeing if I can get the torque converter tighter than the 24-2600 stall. Been talking with Joe and we are going to change my tube intake to make it feed air in from the rear of the engine and I'm going to put the W2A cooler in the cab under the dash. Also planning on moving the batteries to the back and the radiator. I think I'm going to switch delivery valves from full cuts to some SDX comp DV's and look at different injectors and see if I can find a pump shop to have my pump benched. Lots of plans, just need to get a shop here on the farm built first.
Click to expand...


Im glad to see that the Ol' TH400/AC convertor did you well all season, I knew it would work well for what you were doing. Bad news is since then Art Carr went under during this crappy economy. Any good tranny shop can freshen that 400 for you very resonable; prob. in the 250-350 range; what do you think it would cost if it was a 47/48re, Lol. Michael that built all the convertors at AC has now opened up his own shop still in Abilene, I can get his number if you would like. His priceing is going to be really fair also, looks like he's going to charge 125 bucks to freshen one or a restall, then 20 bucks flat rate shipped back to you; not bad. Tell him Tucker sent ya.
 
Ryan, I was all set to buy my transmission from Art Carr down in Texas, but when I called down there they were out of business. I searched around for another transmission shop and ran into California Performance Transmissions and is owned and ran by Art Carr, I've talked to him quite a few times, he at one time sold out and sold the rights to use his name, hence the place in Texas. He started PCT after that and is still operating today, I talked to him last week. You might give him a call, here is his website: http://www.cpttransmission.com/

I plan on sending both the trans and torque converter back to him and have the torque converter tightened up a bit more, and new clutches put in the trans and make sure nothing else is horqued up. I burned them pretty good Saturday doing the 30psi transbrake launch in high range.
 
Bored today, so I took a photo of a 46 power wagon and worked a little magic in gimp to see what it might look like, not my best work, but I hacked out the license plate, headlights, trimmed the front bumper added super swamper boggers and the flying pig hood ornament.


6231236621_73c0eefa95_z.jpg
 
Here is another one, I added a hood stack, removed the mirror, signal light and windshield wiper and tinted the windows

6231446911_e441ae6b92_z.jpg
 
Well, I don't really have any updates at the moment, the bank I was working with on getting the house and farm notes combined low balled me on the value of both the land and the house, it was a freaking joke. So the shop won't be built for a little while. I'm working on changing jobs and going back out as an independant contractor, I found a project and it was supposed to start a month ago, but the company that I'll be working for has taken thier sweet time signing the contracts with the company I'll be sub contracting through, the big contract is signed, but I'm still waiting on word on the start date, we are thinking it will be after the 1st of the year now that were getting into the holidays, so we are keeping money close for the job change and for the holidays as well.

I have been busy getting a bale spike installed on my purple dodge, and getting the farm ready for winter, also been working on the house, rocking in around the base of the house, building rock steps to the front of the house, also got the kitchen and living room painted (ceiling, walls and trim), and put new flooring in the step daughters bedroom.

I did make up an example flyer for a new location we are trying to host mud races at for next years season

6356890703_863210ef17_z.jpg


So hopefully after the first of the year, I'll have some money flowing in to start focusing on the truck and getting it ready for next year. Without the shop being build before spring, the rebody probably isn't going to happen, so I'm going to focus on the following:

1. lightening the truck as much as I can
2. shifting weight to the back
3. converting the rear to disc brakes
4. building ladder bars for the rearend
5. converting to water/air intercooler
6. injector and delivery valve changes
7. going to dual batteries in the rear
8. electric water pump and removing all accessories from the engine
9. adding another 2 trans coolers to better cool the trans
10. sending the trans to get rebuilt and torque converter tightened more
11. getting the trans rebuilt
12. removing front bumper, air2air cooler, lights
13. move radiator to rear of truck
14. removing brackets and braces that aren't needed
15. different wheels for the truck 8" wide front and 10" wide rear wheels
16. maybe getting 35" swamper boggers for the front

I really wanted to do the rebody, but I think that will keep me busy enough with everything else going on.

I'm up to 20 head of cattle, getting ready to start 8 hives of bees in the spring, and starting to get things ready to buy some pigs to start breeding.

I've rewritten the farm website as well: http://johnbrownfarms.com it's still a work in progress as I have a few cycles of spare time to work on it.

That's all for now.

NakeDiesel
 
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