Smarty UDC Initial Impressions

mikmaze said:
with all the constant driving, testing, tuning, don't forget to give the setup every chance it can to run as well as it can....... filtration can be a help here. I picked up some pep and dropped egt a touch this past week without touching the tune, replaced 6 year old airdog filters, and cleaned the air filter as well. what kind of boost are you seeing at wot? 1400 surprises me, cruising 70 mph, 8 psi 800 egt, roll into about 2/3rds throttle and boost goes to 60 psi, 1150 egt, not enough road to go wot, but giving it more gets hazey and egt barely climbs.
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Man you got something right! I think it's my turbo! the 64 doesn't work untill after 2000rpm!
As far as my tune what I adjusted didn't help the bucking is gone but 15mpg sucks! All I did was increase rail pressure to sample 30 specs and duration too! Going back to 18B above sample and fine tune!
 
nothing wrong with your current turbo, it just needs to be force fed.......
 
dangerous06 said:
Any suggestions?! Thinking about twins for a while!
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Unless you live at, or near, WOT a PS or SPS 64 (simply talking II turbo's) would do better. A silver 64 will spool slower in a twin setup, thou do okay onced spooled.
 
Yeah figured I'd have to start from scratch! Wish someone would make a twin setup that would pass CA bull CARB sticker. But at 100k per sticker not worth the investment!
Now I hope you look at sample 18B above and give a little input. I tweaked it for todays drive let you know tonight if it's better or worse! That sample is the best yet for power and milage just can't clear the smoke up top??
 
No cp3 mods? maybe you are asking too much from the stocker? do you have a rail pressure gauge? does it feel like it falls on its face?? comparing your tune, it seems like you are about 5 degrees low on timing towards the top, not giving the fuel the time it needs to burn in cylinder. looks like you top out at about 20 degrees, try topping out closer to 26 degrees, keep your graphs looking similar, just go more towards 26
 
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Oh yeah I've got a 60% over CP3 and gauges for everything! I'll try the extra timing up top! Lowering the rail pressure in the cruise area really helped the MPG!
 
Haven't been following the udc thing, so this is probably a simple answer, but if you upgrade to udc, can you pull your current SSR tune to start with?
 
dvst8r said:
Haven't been following the udc thing, so this is probably a simple answer, but if you upgrade to udc, can you pull your current SSR tune to start with?
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From what I have read no you can't. You upgrade your Smarty to UDC then save your stock tune in the folder and go to town making a new tune.

Could be different now though.
 
You start a new tune and then compare your ssr tune and copy what you want. IMO when you look at what you created blindfolded you may just throw it out! Better to use one of the sample tunes and tweak it to your liking Sample 20 would be a great starting point also download some of the shared tunes here and start trying them out!
 
when I did my upgrade to udc, I had to have the latest SSR software on the SSR unit, then and only then would it update to UDC. If you are using current SSR software, and have a "killer tune" that you think is worthy, by all means, when given the option after upgrade, read file from smarty and it will open in UDC. Then you can see what mess you have, or it truly is a good starting point and tune from there. You may wish to spend a day trying the sample tunes, picking one you like the best, and through the compare feature, adjust it towards your SSR tune, or Adjust your SSR tune towards the UDC sample tune.
 
When increasing duration should timing also be increased or decreased? I've found that increasing duration has a major impact on MPG in a good way!
 
You are hand calculating correct? The overhead MPG will be off when screwing with duration.
 
dangerous06 said:
When increasing duration should timing also be increased or decreased? I've found that increasing duration has a major impact on MPG in a good way!
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If increasing duration has an impact on hand calc mileage (not overhead as that will be skewed with duration modifications) then your timing was not set correctly for the duration.

The truck will still use "x" fuel for cruise (assuming same timing), it doesn't matter if that is cell 6.5%, 50%, or 100%.

That is why there really is no need to touch cruise duration, timing and pressure are what you need to modify.
 
ok hmmm thats strange! Could you take a look at my latest sample above give me your opinion!
I have to be honest the calculator is way above me I just don't understand how numerous different setups can use the same calc?
 
dangerous06 said:
ok hmmm thats strange! Could you take a look at my latest sample above give me your opinion!
I have to be honest the calculator is way above me I just don't understand how numerous different setups can use the same calc?
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I might be able to later tonight.

You can tailor the calc to your own setup. The calc page is editable to your desire, as are the pressure and duration tables.. It's not locked to one setup.
 
John for the fuel split for the 03's do you think its safe to go with 50/50 at high rpm/ high load area's still? Or would a 48/52 be better until I can get to a dino?
 
The 03/04 seem to like less until the rpms get well up there.

It's all what you feel is safe, and see how the truck reacts to either one.
 
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