some tech help plz.....

beta smarty is like 247 rwhp
as for heat killing chargers, my stock hx35 on my 2000 has seen 2200* im guessing...it was real hot, thats for sure...its still alive and kickin
 
Signature600 said:
Smarty is mild?? What setting? The smarty can make what, 170-190hp over stock. The TST is 180ish. Stacking boxes on the stock charger kills stock chargers...they're barely enough for factory, let alone another 100+hp!

Chris

Yes, it is in the way it delivers it's power. The TST on the other hand is quite violent.... it's there or it's not.

You're right though.... with both together that's a lot for a stocker.
 
40 to 42psi in an automatic is alot. the drive pressure is were you see all the damage. i ran my stock charger to 50 psi but the drive pressure was stupid high and I removed it the next day for the silver 66. now my egts are in the 12's and my boost is around 65lbs in lockup. I am totally happy and truck is stonecold reliable.$.02
 
Well guys... I think the worse that could happen, has.... I don't know for sure though so you tell me please.

Got the new turbo and manifold installed. Completely took apart the exhaust and clean it a good as I could. Drained the oil and changed the filter. The moment of truth.... I crank it up and it runs.

Unfortunately, the oil continues to drain out of the exhaust. The truck runs with a very ruff idle and actually sounds like one of the sled pullers with a lugging turbo. I don't believe my 64/14 will do that...?

I let it run for a while hoping the oil will stop draining but, after 5 minutes it continued.

When I was running it, I idled up and got the turbo spooled. Once it was spooled the rough running idle cleaned up and it seemed ready to rock. Back to idle though it runs rough.

The smoke only looks white and there still a lot of it. My Smarty is telling me cylinder #4 is misfiring... obviously full of oil.

If you don't mind.... what is my next step ? Do these motors have sleeved cylinders ? Did I fry a piston ring and oil is blowing by it ? I'm really shocked at this since most of you guys are running a ton more HP than me. I figured the motor could handle a little more than what I gave it. :o

:pop: :pop:
 
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Morse said:
Did you pull the intercooler and tubing off and flush it?


No I didn't need to. No oil went that way. The exhaust seal went out of the turbo and I was hoping the oil I saw in the cylinder port was just a little blow back from the turbo going out. Apparently it wasn't.
 
SKYNYRD said:
pull the head is the next step!!

I guess that will show me the fried piston or valves or are you thinking the HG went too ?
 
did you replace the injectors? don't you have a set sticks? if you do, pull the injectors and get a bore scope. check the #4 cylinder. check them all. you could have pulled oil through the intake. it can take awhile to burn out all the oil. exhaust all your options before you pull the head. If you have a temp. gun let it run and check the #4 exhaust port and see how cold it is too the others. If you have a big temp varience then yes you need a head gasket and/or head. If that is the case I would put it back to stock(just the motor).
good luck. Pm me anytime if needed. if you were in texas I would warranty it for you.
 
triton said:
Well guys... I think the worse that could happen, has.... I don't know for sure though so you tell me please.

Got the new turbo and manifold installed. Completely took apart the exhaust and clean it a good as I could. Drained the oil and changed the filter. The moment of truth.... I crank it up and it runs.

Unfortunately, the oil continues to drain out of the exhaust. The truck runs with a very ruff idle and actually sounds like one of the sled pullers with a lugging turbo. I don't believe my 64/14 will do that...?

I let it run for a while hoping the oil will stop draining but, after 5 minutes it continued.

When I was running it, I idled up and got the turbo spooled. Once it was spooled the rough running idle cleaned up and it seemed ready to rock. Back to idle though it runs rough.

The smoke only looks white and there still a lot of it. My Smarty is telling me cylinder #4 is misfiring... obviously full of oil.

If you don't mind.... what is my next step ? Do these motors have sleeved cylinders ? Did I fry a piston ring and oil is blowing by it ? I'm really shocked at this since most of you guys are running a ton more HP than me. I figured the motor could handle a little more than what I gave it. :o

:pop: :pop:
Triton, I mean no disrespect when I say these things. But when you make a statement like "I thought the motor could handle a little more" it really shows how little you understand our Cummins engine. It can handle more.. alot more. The problem is, the stock turbo is basically a choke point. It's made to handle the power the factory designed into the whole system and maybe a bit more. And when you try to jam 200-300hp more down it's throat, temps get WAY outta hand. When you said you were at 1600+ degrees way before the end of the quarter, you answered your own questions. I don't care what guys say about you can go 1600 for 5 seconds or whatever. You're playing with fire if you do. My guess is you went way over 1600degrees. Plus your drive pressures were crazy high probably double what your boost was. Whoever gave you the advice to just mat the throttle with the TST and Smarty and your stock turbo doesn't know his ass from a hole in the ground. PERIOD. I hope you get it all fixed relatively easily. Hope there is no block damage. I feel for you. It can happen to anyone, but someone gave you really bad advice.
 
AMEN TRIK!!! Ignorance is bliss until you get bit in the ass!!!! Triton you are learning the hard way with an expensive toy. The 5.9 cummins is hands down the baddest diesel on the planet! I don't think anyone will argue that point. little motor big power with stock parts.
 
make a coupler that slips on your turbo when you get it on. make an enclosed cup kind of a deal with an air fitting on it. i have one that i use to presurize my engine and intercooler to check for boost leaks. presurize it and if you have bubbles coming from your radiator, then its a head gasket. if not, you should be just fine.
 
csutton7 said:
he was drag racing, so of course his foot needed to be planted,
If this is the best idea in your mind for a guy running a stack such as his on an otherwise stock CR engine/turbo then you need to remove yourself from this forum or just stop posting altogether.

It's people like that who are misinforumed or underinformed that leads people like triton to think he is okay when in reality he wasn't. I feel for you, I've seen the thread over on DTR. In fact another thread was opened about the situation - mainly because of the idiots that told you to keep it floored. Yes, perhaps you should have known better, but IMO I listened to the first things that everyone told me when I bought my first diesel much of which turned out to be waaaaay off from fact. Good luck, at least you have the budget to take care of it, some guys would be SOL.
 
CumminAtYa said:
If this is the best idea in your mind for a guy running a stack such as his on an otherwise stock CR engine/turbo then you need to remove yourself from this forum or just stop posting altogether.
ummm.. Csutton isn't exactly new to this stuff. And he was just stating a fact.

Plus, if you haven't blown up anything, you're not playing hard enough :shake: .
 
Lucky Jeff said:
ummm.. Csutton isn't exactly new to this stuff. And he was just stating a fact.

Plus, if you haven't blown up anything, you're not playing hard enough :shake: .
Yes, I know that, but even someone who "knows stuff" should be smarter than to say something that stupid knowing the circumstances. Either lift, or turn the power down. Sorry, but that's my opinion on the matter. If someone has the budget for breakage and doesn't care, fine. I think it's easier to just do it right to begin with rather than have to fix things that may not have broken to begin with.
 
CumminAtYa said:
Yes, I know that, but even someone who "knows stuff" should be smarter than to say something that stupid knowing the circumstances. Either lift, or turn the power down. Sorry, but that's my opinion on the matter. If someone has the budget for breakage and doesn't care, fine. I think it's easier to just do it right to begin with rather than have to fix things that may not have broken to begin with.
I don't get why you're calling him the idiot though? He only said "Of course his foot was in it, he was drag racing". Did I read that wrong? he wasn't the one that told him to do it. He just stated a fact. If I race, I don't exactly go out and hammer on it half throttle.
 
Lucky Jeff said:
I don't get why you're calling him the idiot though? He only said "Of course his foot was in it, he was drag racing". Did I read that wrong? he wasn't the one that told him to do it. He just stated a fact. If I race, I don't exactly go out and hammer on it half throttle.
I'll rephrase. Agreeing with those that did tell him to stay in it is almost as nuts. I don't agree with what he said, given the circumstances when the guy hit even 1500* racing or not he should have let off enough to keep the egt's under control. Sure his times would have been a bit less, but I am sure you could ask triton if he had it to do over again would he have lifted, or would have just "kept his foot in it because he was drag racing" and went through this dilemma?
 
Dudes.... NO ONE made me do a thing nor am I one to not think about what I'm doing. When I say " I thought they could handle more " it's not a uninformed statement.

Yes, I've seen 1600 but, I also let out after a second or two of it. When I said I saw 1600 at the 1/8.... I continued for a second or two and let out of it. Both times I ran the quarter I rolled across the finish under no power. Sure, I know anything past 1400F is bad and I never went above that until I went to the track.

Two runs down the 1/4, I though maybe I'll lose the turbo at those temps but, never expected to lose a cylinder.

I've seen many a thread with guys running more than I have/had and have never seen a blown motor because of it. Not to say it doesn't happen... I seem to be proof.

I'm a big boy and if i wasn't prepared to pay the price, I'd have never gone to the track. I just didn't expect this much of a problem.

I really want thank you guys for helping....but really, this isn't supposed to be a sympathy session. **** happens and there's many more important things in life that concern me more than this. This is repairable ;-)

That fact that I'm not a diesel mechanic is what hinders things but, I'm learnin' quick. I will take all the advice I can get from you guys.
 
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triton said:
Well guys... I think the worse that could happen, has.... I don't know for sure though so you tell me please.

Got the new turbo and manifold installed. Completely took apart the exhaust and clean it a good as I could. Drained the oil and changed the filter. The moment of truth.... I crank it up and it runs.

Unfortunately, the oil continues to drain out of the exhaust. The truck runs with a very ruff idle and actually sounds like one of the sled pullers with a lugging turbo. I don't believe my 64/14 will do that...?

I let it run for a while hoping the oil will stop draining but, after 5 minutes it continued.

When I was running it, I idled up and got the turbo spooled. Once it was spooled the rough running idle cleaned up and it seemed ready to rock. Back to idle though it runs rough.

The smoke only looks white and there still a lot of it. My Smarty is telling me cylinder #4 is misfiring... obviously full of oil.

If you don't mind.... what is my next step ? Do these motors have sleeved cylinders ? Did I fry a piston ring and oil is blowing by it ? I'm really shocked at this since most of you guys are running a ton more HP than me. I figured the motor could handle a little more than what I gave it. :o

:pop: :pop:

Bummer. Possible cracked piston. Time to pull the head off.

Guess I gave poor advice, but the symptoms indicated charger, and that would cover about 90% of such situations.

Sorry.
 
Concerning "staying in it":

None of these diesel engines were designed for what abuse we put them through.

Most "tuning only" engines will survive a long time, but there is no guarantee. Some will even blow up stock. It's a statistics game. The more HP you run, the bigger risk, but there is no 0% risk, only a 100% risk. In other words, there will be a small percentage of engines that fail at stock power, 50% will fail at XXX HP and all engines will fail at XXXX HP.
 
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