SSR New Release Info and Results Thread...

[Cummin-a-long]

Okay, lemme break this down crayola style......

You have a hole, any hole, any size, but you have a hole....

Lets say I take that hole and I push water through it at 50 psi for 10 seconds. I get X amount of water.

Now, lets say I take that same hole and I spray water through it at 100 psi for 10 seconds, how much water did I get? Twice as much as I did with 50 psi.

Now, lets say I want to get X amount of water to fill a pool (cylinder).

At 50 psi (rail Pressure), I need to spray it for 10 seconds (duration).

At 100 psi, I need to cut it in half, otherwise I overfill the pool.

If I overfill the pool, I get water spilling over (i.e. smoke).

Now, lets say that 50 psi for 10 seconds only filled the pool 2/3's of the way. I'd need to spray the water for 15 seconds to actually fill the pool.

Get it?

 

[JSL1058]

Yer er da gottcha.. 2=2+4 so how do I get less fuel with your higher rail when I am at one duration?
The wau I see it I'm stuck with less RP because there is no other way to get less fuel.. got it!!

 

[Cummin-a-long]

YOU PUT IN NOZZLES THAT ARE THE CORRECT SIZE FOR HOW MUCH AIR YOU'RE PUSHING.

You don't fill a kiddie pool with a fire hose.

If you don't have boost to match the fuel, you get smoke and heat.

If you have big turbos, you have lag. Lag = smoke until the boost comes in.

The only way around that is making your own atmosphere (i.e. nitrous) until the turbos light. You set it up on a progressive controller that is boost referenced so it turns off at your desired boost pressure.

 

[UNBROKEN]

The days of needing large by huge nozzles are over....even with big chargers.
Too many folks throwing the biggest of everything at their trucks and expecting to make eleventybillion horsepower at the drop of a hat.
It's a machine....the parts need to be matched to work in harmony.
Just because you have big twins doesn't automatically equate to needing gigantic injectors....not if you wanna daily drive it anyway.

People need to stop and think before they just throw parts at sh!t.

 

[Cummin-a-long]

BINGO!

The best tuning on the planet won't compensate for a collection of the wrong parts.

 

[JasonCzerak]

yeabut. ... you have huge twins, big fuel for said twins right... at idle 0boost, I have the same problem the guy with stock injectors and stock turbo. The smarty smokes a chit load

my theory is the curve. I managed to find a lowend tune that doesn't smoke at all. even sudden wot. however. it was fuggen slow. tdi slow. what good is that?

high rail, and what ever curve lld 30 is spools fast, less smoke, only if you don't stab the throttle to much, it's drivable. I can make a pass on the highway and not draw negative attention. once the dip is ironed out being rather aggressive should be possible!

What is key here is a way to "tune" around boost aswell as everything else we already have control over. my truck will make boost slower the riches, but faster the a 3.0 single. what we need is the ability to go from idle to WOT and it fuels accordingly.

My tdi does this and it's a freaking vp pump.... and has the hottest tune a stock charger can support, zero smoke, from any rpm

when I had a stock turbo and stock injectors with the smarty, it was all smoke...

sure the map doesn't read over 44psi.... who here cruises from a stop light to 50mph needing 40psi and isnt WOT racing?

 

[Cummin-a-long]

Okay, you guys HAVE TO TUNE THE TRUCK ON THE DYNO!

Seat of the pants DOES NOT WORK with this tuner.

I've said it 100 times....SOTP DOES NOT provide repeatable conditions and you can't measure consistently and / or accurately measure the results.

There are settings I cruise day to day with and there are settings I use at the track.

You guys are looking for a one-size-fits-all tune and that's not gonna happen. Not unless you KNOW what the parameters are and know where they're taking effect.

This is why I asked Marco several different times. The values are not a secret. Anybody that has ever tuned any damn thing on the planet knows what their values are. IT'S A MUST!

I wouldn't toss a new distributor on the Chevelle and just expect it to work. Sure, you fiddle with it until the motor starts and then you use the timing gun to get the timing at whatever degree you want. Then when you start tossing boost or nitrous at it, you retard the timing and increase the fuel pressure based on what you're doing, but YOU KNOW THE PARAMETERS. Then you can bump it up or down on the dyno until you get the power you want.

I know I sound like a broken record, but without knowing the values you are totally in the blind.

You have to know the values to make accurate changes, it's that simple.

 

[raychem]

The days of needing large by huge nozzles are over....even with big chargers.
Too many folks throwing the biggest of everything at their trucks and expecting to make eleventybillion horsepower at the drop of a hat.
It's a machine....the parts need to be matched to work in harmony.
Just because you have big twins doesn't automatically equate to needing gigantic injectors....not if you wanna daily drive it anyway.

People need to stop and think before they just throw parts at sh!t.

Just to back you up, I made 50 more hp on 20% smaller injectors and cut smoke down quite a bit.

Makes me wonder if I would pick up more with the larger injectors once the post injection is removed.

BINGO!

The best tuning on the planet won't compensate for a collection of the wrong parts.

Unfortunately, a lot of people still think that bigger is better instead of combination.

 

[homewrecker]

So what's the opinions on hlt values? I see some saying it needs to be lower than llt value and most including myself have been running it at a higher level. Once boost and rpm's come up should we be backing the timing down? Think im gonna play with some lower hlt settings tomorrow and see how the power is. I've been running an average of 8-12 higher in hlt than Llt since I got the ssr. Never tried it close to the same or lower on the top end.

Sent from my DROIDX

 

[Cummin-a-long]

Are you running stock pistons?

What's your peak boost?

And what version are you using? I'm using 1.3, I didn't like 1.4 at all.

 

[maddog_madden]

Hey cummin-a-long, im running bigger injectors and mahle pistons, i think closer to a 16:1 compression and i cant get past the popping, tried close to stock and close to tnt #7 settings and cant get it to stop popping and blowing white smoke. i take ssr off and can run any tnt setting i want no problem. Any suggestions? Im guessing its a timing issue but what is the difference between ssr #7 settings and the tnt #7?

 

[Cummin-a-long]

What has the truck made for peak boost?

Are your CP3's mod's or are they stock CP3's?

 

[maddog_madden]

i have seen over 100psi boost with tnt#7 but like i said it runs good with this, havent left the driveway with the ssr cause if i just rev it up in park it starts popping.

 

[maddog_madden]

cp3s are stock and will hold 26K so far

 

[JasonCzerak]

folks.

if you agree with some of us on smoke, boost reference, values. speakup in a polite manner.

 

[NEVRNF]

I only see 24-25000 max, but Im only running a arson. I'm surprised your gauge reads that high. Have you switch to a 6.7 rp sensor?

All that is done to my pump is a kit. It had 100k + on it when i got the motor. I saw the same kind of # with the Quad guage that is why i switched to the AM's as i thought i was getting a false reading. As far as i know it is the stock 5.9 rp sensor.

I am running 1.4 right now as the 1.3 would spire the rail then fall backwhile holding a teady throttle. 1.4 stays steady at whatever rp until i let of the pedal slightly then it will drop. If i push down a little it will jump back up so i do not think i am draining the rail as i can call for any rp and it will hold it.

 

[S.H.O.P]

Okay, you guys HAVE TO TUNE THE TRUCK ON THE DYNO!

Seat of the pants DOES NOT WORK with this tuner.

I've said it 100 times....SOTP DOES NOT provide repeatable conditions and you can't measure consistently and / or accurately measure the results.

There are settings I cruise day to day with and there are settings I use at the track.

You guys are looking for a one-size-fits-all tune and that's not gonna happen. Not unless you KNOW what the parameters are and know where they're taking effect.

This is why I asked Marco several different times. The values are not a secret. Anybody that has ever tuned any damn thing on the planet knows what their values are. IT'S A MUST!

I wouldn't toss a new distributor on the Chevelle and just expect it to work. Sure, you fiddle with it until the motor starts and then you use the timing gun to get the timing at whatever degree you want. Then when you start tossing boost or nitrous at it, you retard the timing and increase the fuel pressure based on what you're doing, but YOU KNOW THE PARAMETERS. Then you can bump it up or down on the dyno until you get the power you want.

I know I sound like a broken record, but without knowing the values you are totally in the blind.

You have to know the values to make accurate changes, it's that simple.

Well said!!! If you have all the parameters and know when they come and go it is much easier to tune. It's almost impossible if you don't know what each number represents. I have a 530+HP twin cylinder snowmobile running 30 lbs of boost with nos. You don't make big power f'n around with numbers that don't mean anything. That's why I am switching to EFI live supposedly they tell you the real numbers we'll see how that goes when I get it. It sounds pretty good to me but what do I know. I mean you all look pretty fast when I'm passing you. haha

 

[JSL1058]

Just to back you up, I made 50 more hp on 20% smaller injectors and cut smoke down quite a bit.

Makes me wonder if I would pick up more with the larger injectors once the post injection is removed.



Unfortunately, a lot of people still think that bigger is better instead of combination.

Now I'm getting some info instead of the sycobabble chest thumping. My question was how much is to big? ED matched a set of turbos and injectors against the flow of the head/intake to make the "Most Power". I question the size. It makes alot of sense that with the new stuff like the SSR you may be able to use much smaller sticks and blow em harder and longer. However.. When the combustion event happens is it better to have a long drawen out duration IE small sticks or dum te fuel as quick as possible IE bigger sticks? The dyno should tell. And by the way..
The only way out of the canyon of inexperiance is to build yourself a mountain of scrap by which to crawl out.Thanks for the info

 

[Cummin-a-long]

Now I'm getting some info instead of the sycobabble chest thumping. My question was how much is to big? ED matched a set of turbos and injectors against the flow of the head/intake to make the "Most Power". I question the size. It makes alot of sense that with the new stuff like the SSR you may be able to use much smaller sticks and blow em harder and longer. However.. When the combustion event happens is it better to have a long drawen out duration IE small sticks or dum te fuel as quick as possible IE bigger sticks? The dyno should tell. And by the way..
The only way out of the canyon of inexperiance is to build yourself a mountain of scrap by which to crawl out.Thanks for the info

Psychobabble.....

Get the "F" outa here.

You don't know your head from your a$$ and you wanna run off at the suck like you have an ounce of knowledge....

I can't even read half of your mumbo jumbo...it's like reading a 2 year old's drawing that was left alone with the big box of crayons.

You're gonna have a mountain of scrap alright, it'll be that POS you claim is making 800+ @ 1600 RPM but you can't even get the chargers lit.

Put down the Diesel Power mag and quit talkin other folks $hit.

You're the guy that made me put the sign in the shop saying, "Labor rate is based on customers's attitude". I can help ya or tell ya to go "F" yourself; you just moved over to the latter.

Have a day!

 

[Cummin-a-long]

i have seen over 100psi boost with tnt#7 but like i said it runs good with this, havent left the driveway with the ssr cause if i just rev it up in park it starts popping.

On yours, I'd start the timing up around 28 on the LL and 25 on the HL and start bumping it up from there.

I don't think you'll be able to go much higher than 30 - 32 on the LL and 28 - 30 on the HL.

That's if you're on 1.3....I had 1.4 on for a day and tossed it, hung the motor wide open on me twice.