Scooter's Roofing
New member
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2006
- Messages
- 17,007
all you'd have to do is balance the pistons to eachother... an I6 is a naturally balanced engine
i always run the mp-8 wfo on every pass,find another tree to bark up...tuning and build is the answer...
From what Dockboy posted and other info on rail pressure spike that isn't a good thing. Wouldnt say that was the determining factor that toasted the motoer but it had to be something to do with the line blowing off.
You just don't get it do you. The only way that any 124° injector can spray directly onto the crown, is if the pintle is hung open.
I got the 0236 code for the 1st time on the day I melted down tooI did get a P0236 code ( map sensor too high for too long ) code a couple times that night
I don't think EGT gauges are worth looking at. I melted 4 pistons without ever reaching 1400 degrees. We need cylinder pressure sensors like the new vw's have.We will all only help if you promise to use an EGT gauge this time!
This is certainly a high cylinder temperature failure. All the classic signs are there.
I have posted on every forum I visit on multiple occasions that water injection is the only "crutch" that can help prevent this kind of mess. The Common Rail efficiency at turning fuel into power is unbelievable. The cylinder temps generated are way too high for long term durability. The only thing one can do is a water system to try and drive down those numbers. Im not talking about a bastardized water system with meth or some other chemical. Pure water.
Nearly all Ceramic coatings will be flashed off a in matter of seconds at these cylinder temps.
On a competitive CR engine, the EGT probe is a waste of time. You might as well be reading the fuel gauge. It is no longer an indicator of latent heat like a 12 valve or to a lesser extent a VP44 engine would give. CR engines have very little latent heat from left over unburned fuel. Highly atomized fuel from small spraying holes and massive injection power through pressures 2.5 times higher than a 12V would generate turn that incombustable liquid into a cloud of vapor that burns as fast ( almost literally ) as it can be injected. They simply burn it fast and very efficiently. So larger amounts of heat are generated inside a smaller window of time.
Couple of things I see: Number 5 is baked. Number 1 is getting some aluminum erosion around the outside lip of the bowl. The truck runs low 11 second 1/4 times. Thats enough to tell us the heat is outside the poor stock CR pistons capabilities of remaing a solid. LOL
Sorry to see this happen again . Proceed with caution and try to find out why so it does not happen again. Good Luck Rich
Thanks man! Yeah, Caution is an understatment!!
I hope I find something...
He speaka the truth brotha
I've never messed with dual cp3's yet. My brothers truck is still on his stock cp3 & that is pretty much the only truck I really get my hands into. I'm not really understanding what fuel line broke off? If the engine stopped getting fuel when all of that heat was built up.....wouldn't that be like hitting the oxygen on a blow torch? Thats what I was getting at.
If it is actually a 124* injector...
Big Swole, if its Not to much to ask Please send the Rail, Sensor and PRV to Me, I see you have the Stock PRV in Post # 19..The Factory PRV has proved to be all or nothing..if it is stuck in the shut position it is NO different then a bolt. I will test the values of the Valve and sensors.The cavity area of the valve MUST be modifies for DUAL PUMPS, for the valve to work properly.NOW for all YOU NAY-SAYER'S Please DO NOT comment..This thread is NOT about "You don't need the valve" If all the carnage over the years is not enough for YOU .Their is nothing I can do for YOU, But please allow Me to HELP those that Do.
I've wondered this too...without the fuel or decreasing fast, I wonder how it affected things.....hmmm