Truckers, lets see your rigs!

ACFarmer said:
Have probably 4-5 broke off on my 93. Any real fix?
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like Cody said, I drilled/tapped my head and used 7/16 ARP bolts. Don't know if that's a fix but so far so good. The other fix is to use a PDI manifold, the newer ones have slip joints and seals like the Cummins and move easily they don't bind like the press fit. They don't break near the studs the stock ones do. Also they use 1/2 turbo mounting bolts. PP/Full Tilt/Bullydog manifolds are still all press fit.
 
He was working on an electronic cat, not much difference in the manifold mating face, might be a little less room on a square port but doesn't mean it can't be done.
 
My dad has problems keeping exhaust manifolds from leaking. Seems like he replaces them every 2 years. I was thinking about getting the manifold fire ringed? Thoughts?

The manifold on my FLC is leaking between the front section and the center section. I was going to take it off and have it re-packed if its not to far gone. Maybe I'll drill and tap the studs out to 7/16 if possible.
 
jfaulkner said:
like Cody said, I drilled/tapped my head and used 7/16 ARP bolts. Don't know if that's a fix but so far so good. The other fix is to use a PDI manifold, the newer ones have slip joints and seals like the Cummins and move easily they don't bind like the press fit. They don't break near the studs the stock ones do. Also they use 1/2 turbo mounting bolts. PP/Full Tilt/Bullydog manifolds are still all press fit.
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You break any turbos off the manifold lately, can't see needing to use that big of bolts on the turbo. LOL
 
The company I work for bought a plate from CAT that you bolt to the head so you can drill and tap out the broken studs. I believe it does 3116, 3126,3306,3406 and maybe 3408. I used it on a CAT 627 scraper and it worked really well.
 
We have those. I am not a fan because they call for metric bits. The cobalt bits we have are standards.
It's better than free handing I suppose.
The plates should be separate for standard and metric engines
 
I didn't use metric bits. Maybe that 3406 takes standard bits?
 
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SmokinCAT said:
You break any turbos off the manifold lately, can't see needing to use that big of bolts on the turbo. LOL
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Yea actually, I have one 6NZ that would snap bolts every month. Had manifold machined, tried harder and softer bolts. Tried leaving them loose and it would always break. Stock manifold doesn't have enough meat to use larger bolts so I gave up and got a good manifold. Had zero issues since.
 
My brother in law and I picked this one up 2 weeks ago.
2E0C620C-9403-4675-A625-F6E4493EA681.jpg

It's a 2000 with a 525 N14 18 speed and 3.36 rears, it's one of the cleanest trucks I have came across for the age.
 
Just read a funny thing, Cat is buying engines from Iveco because they gave up designing their own. Wise move. I think they are 9 and 13 litres.
 
jfaulkner said:
Let me guess Lenny, Europe has the worlds greatest turbo configurations on the planet! And some guy you know who knows another guy who knows another guy has a custom made single that will support from 25hp to 2500hp with ZERO smoke and instant spool up on some obscure antique L10 that you have nothing to do with.

The point is these guys spend thousands of dollars for nothing! You only have so many configurations of stock parts to work with. "Custom" has no place in the work truck market. You bolt a weird charger on that you can't get anywhere your asking for trouble. Keep in mind, this is the USA. We have states that are larger than your entire country. No one wants to be broke down 3000mi away from the nearest available replacement part.

Why don't you want to lug it down to 1100???? The same reason you don't drag an engine down on an engine dyno. Some guys don't want to piss pound the hell out of their bearings or put unnecessary strain on head gaskets.
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Use bolt on turbo so you can throw stock in when needed. Like stock C16 turbo, good for 1000 hp from 1000 rpm upwards, or HX60 with Cat adapters like Columbus sells. With Acert just throw big one away, I think small one is good for 750 hp.

You know that electronic engines can change timing in reference to load and rpm ? Thats why they can be lugged down as low as you want. Or as low as factory designed them.

I have GT50 Garrett from Detroit in my D16 Volvo, pulls from 950 to 2700 rpm, no smoke, no funny noises. Volo housings so I can fit stock turbo if this one blows somewhere in Sibirien 5000 km from nearest Volvo service. Or I can drive home without turbo.
 
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6.4 F-350 said:
My brother in law and I picked this one up 2 weeks ago.
2E0C620C-9403-4675-A625-F6E4493EA681.jpg

It's a 2000 with a 525 N14 18 speed and 3.36 rears, it's one of the cleanest trucks I have came across for the age.
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My condolences on the N-14 Lol. But that looks to be an ultrasleeper, those are pretty tough to find
 
Mr.T said:
My condolences on the N-14 Lol. But that looks to be an ultrasleeper, those are pretty tough to find
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Yes sir it's a ultra sleeper with great specs. I am not the biggest fan of the N14 but they are growing on me, the top 3 trucks quarterly for fuel economy in my fleet are all N14's. They edge out the Detroits every month. As far as service goes they have all been super reliable with only minimal breakdowns. My main gripe with them is that they are normally leaky pigs, but this one is dry as a bone right now so I figured we would give it a shot.
 
The N-14 is damn near about as reliable as a sledgehammer, they last forever and get good mileage.....the problem is that the power sucks.
 
Leiffi said:
Use bolt on turbo so you can throw stock in when needed. Like stock C16 turbo, good for 1000 hp from 1000 rpm upwards, or HX60 with Cat adapters like Columbus sells. With Acert just throw big one away, I think small one is good for 750 hp.



You know that electronic engines can change timing in reference to load and rpm ? Thats why they can be lugged down as low as you want. Or as low as factory designed them.



I have GT50 Garrett from Detroit in my D16 Volvo, pulls from 950 to 2700 rpm, no smoke, no funny noises. Volo housings so I can fit stock turbo if this one blows somewhere in Sibirien 5000 km from nearest Volvo service. Or I can drive home without turbo.
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Why on earth would you throw the big charger away on an Acert? Drive pressure is 1:1 with boost, supports 800hp to the ground, spool up is nice, broad power band. HX60 on a Cat sucks, adapters leak. If you buy a PDI manifold with a Holset foot your stuck with a 60. Your C16 turbo is fine but expensive and doesn't do as good as the factory compounds. C16 works great when it's being force fed by a HX82.
 
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jfaulkner said:
Why on earth would you throw the big charger away on an Acert? Drive pressure is 1:1 with boost, supports 800hp to the ground, spool up is nice, broad power band. HX60 on a Cat sucks, adapters leak. If you buy a PDI manifold with a Holset foot your stuck with a 60. Your C16 turbo is fine but expensive and doesn't do as good as the factory compounds. C16 works great when it's being force fed by a HX82.
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Holset foot is T6 like any other turbo ? Welded adapters dont leak.

Big chargers rob energy, single is always more efficient and you can have same pressure ratios choosing it right. Those stage this and that BWs always have too big compressor, too small turbine and no wastegate. And you dont choose turbo to compensate for lack of ECM tuning abilities, find someone who can do it right. Bigger singles need boost/smoke limiter map set much more agressive too spool faster.

But yes, stock twins are better and cheaper than some PDI or other crooks single conversion.
 
jfaulkner said:
Why on earth would you throw the big charger away on an Acert? Drive pressure is 1:1 with boost, supports 800hp to the ground, spool up is nice, broad power band. HX60 on a Cat sucks, adapters leak. If you buy a PDI manifold with a Holset foot your stuck with a 60. Your C16 turbo is fine but expensive and doesn't do as good as the factory compounds. C16 works great when it's being force fed by a HX82.
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Are you thinking an HT60 J? I know they have a different foot than a Cat, but I thought a HX60 had the same foot as a Cat.

I know we're talking apples and oranges, but I'd really like to try a HX60 on my B model. While it's working!


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RockinRam96 said:
I know we're talking apples and oranges, but I'd really like to try a HX60 on my B model. While it's working!
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If you going to try it, buy a version with 76mm compressor and 92mm turbine, 27 housing. Quite rare but it's stock turbo of 14,2 liter Scania at 530 hp, good for 800 hp, at least. Will pull from 1100 rpm upwards, maybe even lower.
 
Hard to find and not cheap, I'd say between $2-3K if you can find a part number to look for.

Makes a $1600 177148 look cheap and I have yet to hear anyone complain that has installed one of these on a B/C model.
 
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