Why are pulling hitches so expensive?

JW3 said:
Cheapest pulling hitch around: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200247824_200247824
And yes 2.5" opening will work with most hook's out there.... PLUG AND PLAY!

What I suggest:
Buy this:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200312040_200312040
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Then go to your local metal yard and select a piece of 2"x2" solid stock (steel) about 8 inches long.

Take those pieces to your local welding shop (check phone book)...
Have them weld the pieces together to work with your receiver and drill the pin hole for you.

Overall you'll end up with about $125 in the setup and you'll have a rock solid hitch.

$400 for a pulling hitch? Is it made out of freakin gold or something?
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That's pretty much like mine, cept mine is 5 position instead of 3, and mine is 3" ID instead of 2.5. I have bout 115 bucks in it, not including paying someone to weld it.... I bought the lunette ring and channel for $75, $40 for the pintle reciever mount that I have it welded too... And a few bucks to have a local welder weld the channel to the pintle mount...

I was wondering the same thing when I saw how much some guys wanted for a pulling hitch online... The few I could find online where in the $400 range... Nice looking piece, but not $400 nice!!!
 
The quantities of scale some in there, guess how many of those pintle rings and channel are made? Guess how few pulling hitches are made.
 
Fair enough. The hitches I build are way stouter than that. Do they need to be? I don't know. Maybe I am making mine overkill, but that's my preference. I have seen ones like that bend.

Depends on what HP you're planning on putting down too. If you're not running a real hot truck then you would be fine with the one pictured above.

Note that the one above does NOT meet the common 3.5" ID requirement in many rule books. And when you machine that one out, it gets weaker because of the rather small mounting tab.

I didn't get up on the wrong side of the bed, just trying to have people understand that the small companies making things like this need to make a few bucks or they won't exist long. The Wal-Mart mentality is everywhere these days.
 
I use that same unit as shown in the picture. One thing is do, I cut a square hole in the Channel to put the 2" solid through that piece. That way you don't end up with a butt joint weld. Most of them I see break. I also off set the bar so that you can flip the whole thing over and get a different height that the other way. That way you don't have to move the hitch 2" to the next hole, you only move 1".

 
nwpadmax said:
Fair enough. The hitches I build are way stouter than that. Do they need to be? I don't know. Maybe I am making mine overkill, but that's my preference. I have seen ones like that bend.

Depends on what HP you're planning on putting down too. If you're not running a real hot truck then you would be fine with the one pictured above.

Note that the one above does NOT meet the common 3.5" ID requirement in many rule books. And when you machine that one out, it gets weaker because of the rather small mounting tab.

I didn't get up on the wrong side of the bed, just trying to have people understand that the small companies making things like this need to make a few bucks or they won't exist long. The Wal-Mart mentality is everywhere these days.
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Mat,
I have seen mod trucks run the 3 position channel and lunette ring as a hitch.
3.5" requirement? I thought it was 3 inches? When did all this change?

The unmodified lunette ring/channel setup pictured above always works with the Lowry sleds around here and they use a BIG hook.

I understand hitches and fabricated parts cost a lot to manufacture etc etc but for someone that wants a good tough hitch you can't go wrong with the lunette eye and channel setup.
My truck is right under 700rwhp and I have used a lunette and channel for the last 2 years with no measurable bending or cracks.

You'll tear the truck in half before you tear up that hitch.

PS My apologies for suggesting something that works.:bang
 
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nwpadmax said:
Fair enough. The hitches I build are way stouter than that. Do they need to be? I don't know. Maybe I am making mine overkill, but that's my preference. I have seen ones like that bend.

Depends on what HP you're planning on putting down too. If you're not running a real hot truck then you would be fine with the one pictured above.

Note that the one above does NOT meet the common 3.5" ID requirement in many rule books. And when you machine that one out, it gets weaker because of the rather small mounting tab.

I didn't get up on the wrong side of the bed, just trying to have people understand that the small companies making things like this need to make a few bucks or they won't exist long. The Wal-Mart mentality is everywhere these days.
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Well it hit me Mat! I got the brand for your pulling hitch.

GREAT VALUE :hehe:


I agree with you totally Mat. If some looks at steel prices they would not complain so much. Hell just tube to make my U-joint sheilds and loops cost $300 through work which means no tax.:doh:
 
JW3 said:
You'll tear the truck in half before you tear up that hitch.

PS My apologies for suggesting something that works.:bang
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The proof is in the pudding. If it works for ya, be happy, no apology needed.

Lube owner is right, cutting a hole in the channel so that you can make proper welds is great advice.

All I was trying to point out is, if you start from zero and build a first-class hitch, then $400 is not ridiculous at all once you consider the material input, the machine time, and a few extra bucks to keep the lights on.
 
I just took a de-burring wheel to the front and back of the ring to open it up some, made the hole more oval. you really only have to remove a little material to get "close" to 3.5. most of that material is on the curve of the ring so I don't think I lost any strength. Well at least that one has close to 40 hooks on it and looks as straight as the day I built it.
 
I'm going to have to backtrack a bit on the 3.5".

Our local promoter FPP went with this dimension and I was under the impression that other clubs were doing the same due to insurance companies wanting the sled operators to use bigger hooks. I must have got that confused since NADM and 2007 DHRA was 3.0" diameter (can't find their '08 version on line).

My bad.
 
nwpadmax said:
All I was trying to point out is, if you start from zero and build a first-class hitch, then $400 is not ridiculous at all once you consider the material input, the machine time, and a few extra bucks to keep the lights on.
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I think your prices are more than fair
 
For my needs the first picture will fit the bill perfect for me. I'm going to pull maybe 3 or 4 times a year MAX. And I'm not going to be making huge power either. Also the pulls I go to are 3". Maybe they'll go to 3.5" next year.
 
The 3.5" is driven by K&K Insurance (they insure almost all pulling sleds). The hook it self is no bigger just the knob on the end to keep the hook in the hole.
 
JerrodGlover said:
The 3.5" is driven by K&K Insurance (they insure almost all pulling sleds). The hook it self is no bigger just the knob on the end to keep the hook in the hole.
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Thanks Jerrod my memory is foggy but I believe I was talking to Sleddy and he was telling me something like this. Do I also remember correctly that Mr. Hager (sled builder) is one of the key guys in working with the insurance companies on issues like this?
 
I built mine and it cost me nothing... I'm sure its as strong as any out there. Now, take for granted I got the water jetting done for free, but they were only going to charge me $35 anyway. I did the rest myself. The loop is 1" plate and the sides are 3/16". The rear the bolts tot he hitch insert is 1/2". I got these from a local steel erector that uses these for shims and has 55 gal. barrels full of them 6"x6". It did take alot of sweat in my un-airconditioned garage though, not sure what thats worth in $$$.
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All in all I have less than $50 invested in this hitch... But I am a Master Scrounger LOL
 
If you are located close to STL, let me know and I can help build the same hitch as this. I can still get small amounts of these plates for free and can probably get the machine shop to help with the water jetting again too.
 
Im on both sides of this story.

On one side it sounds expensive, but on the other side its very reasonable.

I used to work at a fab shop down the road until I just didnt have enough time to do it.

First of steel is rediculous these days, and most places wont let you walk in a buy a little piece of it. But If you know where to go you can get a small piece.

2nd. Even guys(like me) that are set up with a $2,500 Millermatic 252 welder(.035 wire), still can barely weld anything thicker than 3/8, and thats pushing it. Now I will say that you can set up your 252 with .045 flux core and weld 1" plate just fine(what I did). But spools of weliding wire aint cheap. Where I worked we he had a welder set up with .045, but he also had over $10,000 invested in the welder sitting on that cart.

Beveling costs a lot too, if you dont have a beveler, you can spend A LOT of time grinding it down. Keep in mind time is money.

alos, you can have the best welder in the world but if you cant weld, its useless. Welding isnt for everybody, and even if your weld looks pretty, cut it open and you may be surprised that you barely penatrated.


what im trying to say, is that, these guys prices are reasonable. But if your set up at home and can weld, you can do it a lot cheaper.

Heck if theres this many people crying about it maybe ill make a few extra hitches and sell them for the pennies I put into it, no labor, and make people sign a waiver that says im not resbonsable if anything happens.

Sh!t aint cheap these days.
 
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