Why are pulling hitches so expensive?

Here is what I use. $250 and its been great so far. Got it from Ben Jefferson www.jeffersondieselperformance.com
600_ben..truck_007.jpg

I didn't know you had one of his hitches. Guess I should pay mroe attention. :D


C-ya
 
The problem with clevises is that they are not adjustable and are loose.

This means that your hooking point is low to the ground. Without my blocks in and just a clevis my hooking point is about 15 inches. Most places have a limit usually around 26 inches and you want to be as close as possible to that point to get the best traction.

Clevises still work if you dont wanna buy or make a hitch.

I just got the materials for mine the other day and hopefully will have it built by saturday.
 
The problem with clevises is that they are not adjustable and are loose.

This means that your hooking point is low to the ground. Without my blocks in and just a clevis my hooking point is about 15 inches. Most places have a limit usually around 26 inches and you want to be as close as possible to that point to get the best traction.

Clevises still work if you dont wanna buy or make a hitch.

I just got the materials for mine the other day and hopefully will have it built by saturday.

ya but they make all sorts of different sizes hitches to get you to the right height. I think the 26" is everywhere some trucks need drop hitches and some need rise hitches. You can get 26" easy just measure and see what size you need, and then just borrow a clevis off the sled. saves you lots of money
 
it can work. But again the Clevis will pivot down some.

Drop hitches scare me, they arent all very heavy and the ones that are cost a lot in the end anyways.

A Simple Lunette Eye is under $50.
 
it can work. But again the Clevis will pivot down some.

Drop hitches scare me, they arent all very heavy and the ones that are cost a lot in the end anyways.

A Simple Lunette Eye is under $50.

Yes very tru they are not as strong but I havent seen one break YET, also they measure from the center of the clevis so you actually want you hitch at 27.5" then the center of a 3" clevis would be at 26" I have a couple hithces that come strait out that are not adjustable but my truck sits to high to use them, but I let others that are close.
 
How far in Minooka, IL from St. Louis? I have access to all the metal I need to build enough hitches for every puller on the forum, but my little 110v MIG just won't cut it(and thats with beveled edges and multiple passes). If your close, maybe we can get your welder introduced to my metal? LOL

It's a little far, but I think we could work something out. we could start a side business on the weekends!:Cheer:
 
It's a little far, but I think we could work something out. we could start a side business on the weekends!:Cheer:

I mapquested Minooka and your a little farther than Washington, MO were I currently go to borrow a good welder LOL I did think about making these to sell, currently its on a case by case basis...
 
Heres a the hitch I just built. I can adjust to exactly 26" with it.
DCP_2105.jpg

That looks like it would work perfectly and not cost much to make. Not everything has to be billet this and lasercut that... You can do alot with a 4.5" grinder, hammer, vise and stick welder. Most of my stuff has... along with a torch of course :D
 
Heres a the hitch I just built. I can adjust to exactly 26" with it.
DCP_2105.jpg

That hitch looks good, But it looks like the 2" square tubing his hollow. Around here the rules state not hollow tubes, must be solid stock.
 
I was always told that tube is stronger then solid, not true?

Nice hitch but how big is the hole? Most events now need a 3 1/2" Hole for the hook.
 
I was always told that tube is stronger then solid, not true?

Nice hitch but how big is the hole? Most events now need a 3 1/2" Hole for the hook.

3 1/2" I have never seen on sled with a hook needing a loop that big most places 3" you will be ok
 
Attention all competitors: (except Minis)

Make sure your drawbar hole is the proper size.
The opening must be 3.750 inches long and 3 inches wide. The drawbar hole was increased 4 years ago but some of you haven't changed the size of the drawbar opening. This wasn't a problem until this season when the hook on the sled was increased to match the opening. If you come to the line and we can't hook your vehicle to the sled you will not be able to make a run until you have the proper size hole. This is your responsibility, if there is a cutting torch on the grounds you can drop 6 positions but not any lower than that by NTPA rules. If there's no torch, you will not be able to pull at all.

This change is coming to all sleds.
 
It is a 3" opening. I built it to the current rules around here. I will be mad if they start going to 3.5" opening. And yes it is 3/8 wall tube. I don't see any reason for it to be solid.
 
I am going to get my oxygen bottle filled up in the next few days if I can remember. So I might just have to build my new one and maybe a couple others as well to sell....
 
Thats NTPA. Has any street diesel on this board ever hooked to an ironman sled??

Didnt think so.

you should be fine with a 3" for now. When the rules change then change the hitch, big deal.

I dont know if tube is any stronger or not but I can say this. I was prying with a piece of 1.5" bar and it bent. I dont know anybody that can bend 1.5" tube around here given that it has a thick sidewall. Heck even a 14awg sidewall is hard to bend.

3.8 wall tube is plenty thick.

There comes a point to draw the line. But I do know that the rules around here are mostly solid this solid that.
 
Thats NTPA. Has any street diesel on this board ever hooked to an ironman sled??

Didnt think so.

Have you taken a survey of which sled each and every truck on this board has hooked to?

Didnt think so.:owned:
 
Thats NTPA. Has any street diesel on this board ever hooked to an ironman sled??

Didnt think so.

I know of at least 5 members on here, including me, that have hooked to the Southern Impact sled and it's on the same level as the Southern Shaker and Ironman. :poke:
 
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