Why does Propane make a engine go boom? Timing

BiodieselPower

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I realize that most diesel guys are against running propane now because their “buddy” or someone they know or heard of was running propane and melted his motor. Why is it that thousands of guys run it on their trucks and never hurt a thing why others have problems in 500 miles?
I have ran propane on my truck and know lots of people that do and even a farmer that buys brand new combines each year puts it on and have no problems when done properly.
I believe that we have had no problems because it is set up for mileage and not power (still boosts power though). Do most guys just have a problem regulating the amount they put in or what? I’ve heard that running propane raises cly. Pressures, well when cly. Pressure raises so does egt. On the kit I use it has its own egt gauge that can be set to shut down the propane at any temp. This kit is also computer controlled and progressive- you can change the amount of propane going in according to the amount of boost and it can be changes at any boost level 1,2,3,4… psi. Right now I have mine set to shut off at 30 lbs of boost because of all the stories I hear and I really want to make sure I do it right the first time.
My theory is that you need to monitor egt, adding the proper amount of propane will actually LOWER the EGT by 20-40 degrees. Too much pane will increase temps and I would assume also increasing pressure causing multiple problems. Also, I think the main reason only stock or almost stock trucks handle propane is because of the timing. Stock trucks can handle quite a bit of extra timing but the problem is we all increase timing for more power/ mileage. That’s fine to a point-like when we add drugs like propane. Fumigating with propane will actually smooth the burn out because the propane vapor is in the cylinder and there are no spots without fuel such as when running just diesel. This is a good thing, but the total burn time takes less time when adding propane. So when you’re already running 20-30 degrees of timing then you add propane you get peak cyl pressure too early and it will be counter productive and try to push the piston down too soon because the burn was so fast. Basically I believe running propane is like advancing you timing another 5-10 degrees. Here is where some people will say that no the propane is igniting on its own before the diesel is injected, but this is not so diesel fuel has an auto ignition point of 437 degrees F compared to propane’s auto ignition of right around 1000 F. So until cylinder temps reach 1000 degrees propane will not self ignite. So the diesel starts to burn first and it actually ignites the propane.
Basically I think that if timing was left stock or even retarded a little and we inject the proper amount we could safely inject propane on high horsepower diesels as a cheap alternative to pricy NO2. The power gains won’t be as large, but it’s also legal on the street.
 
I think your last sentence says it all. You don't get the same bang for your buck as NOS. Plus, most here aren't looking for mileage and in most application, that's what propane is used for.

Last race I was at there was a guy that had his propane tank in the cab with him and controlled it manually. It didn't do much for him as far as power and his motor almost exploded at the end of the run cause run on. Luckily he got it shut down.

hell, where I live I don't think it's any cheaper than NOS.... we're paying $2.89 a gallon for heat. Needless to say, we wear a lot of clothing
 
Huge boost and or compression ratio DOES auto ignite propane. Small shot for a mileage, set up only under light load is all I'd ever do with it.

Propane is no alternative to N02.
 
Huge boost and or compression ratio DOES auto ignite propane. Small shot for a mileage, set up only under light load is all I'd ever do with it.

Propane is no alternative to N02.

How much boost is enough? the combines with these systems are running 55 lbs boost, with no trouble. Also, the kit is desinged to shut down at whatever temp i tell it too. I guess ill have to agree that it could self ingite with enough temp left over/created from compressing the air. But if the propane turns off at say 1,100 degrees egt it should not self ignite, but then i guess big power will not be made under 1,100. Water injection could really help kill the self ignition of the propane too.
 
IMO Propane shouldn't be used in performance diesel motor sports, it a combustant not an accelerant like nitrous. I have seen folks just toss propane at a diesel and it went bang on more then one occasion.

With that being said, if set up properly, and used in moderation it’s great for the towing crowed looking for a little more performance.

Just my opinion.

BBD
 
IMO Propane shouldn't be used in performance diesel motor sports, it a combustant not an accelerant like nitrous. I have seen folks just toss propane at a diesel and it went bang on more then one occasion.

With that being said, if set up properly, and used in moderation it’s great for the towing crowed looking for a little more performance.

Just my opinion.

BBD

x2 I agree.
 
How much boost is enough? the combines with these systems are running 55 lbs boost, with no trouble. Also, the kit is desinged to shut down at whatever temp i tell it too. I guess ill have to agree that it could self ingite with enough temp left over/created from compressing the air. But if the propane turns off at say 1,100 degrees egt it should not self ignite, but then i guess big power will not be made under 1,100. Water injection could really help kill the self ignition of the propane too.




Can't imagine installing one of these kits on one of my 400K Lexion's but we do get propane super cheap.

What combine is running 55lbs boost? What do they do....tow the bottles around?

Cylinder temps simply from compression and compression under boost can get hotter than 1000F.

I would switch the propane by boost, and keep it down to light load and keep it out of mind as use for "performance"
 
Propane MSDS

Flash Point:
-156F (-104C)

Autoignition:
842F (432C)

Flammable Limits - Lower:
2.2%

Flammable Limits - Upper:
9.5%

The cylinder air temp will reach that before TDC.
 
They are running pane on Case 7020 combines with a 40' grain table. They pick up about 20% ground speed and still use less diesel fuel than before. With everything calculated in they save about 30% on fuel per acre.
I realize temps could still be over 1000 before TDC, but what if a large shot of water was put in at the same time propane was? Having as much or more water vapor as propane vapor should hold off combustion enough to not cause damage i think/hope. Then I’ll also set my pane to turn off at 1000 egt that way I know I won’t get propane detonation. With my setup using biodiesel i can keep relatively cool the way it is i only see 1300 wide open unloaded. Would it be possible to keep egts at 1000 by using enough water?
Has anyone here actually blown their motor with propane that was not running advanced timing? Or has anyone tried propane/water. I know i could just go with a proven nitrous setup but i like to do things outside the box like making smoke free 600+ horsepower in a 12V on 100% biodiesel. But then again there’s no sense in me repeating someone’s mistake.
 
Limiting propane injection when you hit 1000* on the EGT's won't really do anything. The more boost you have, the higher the cylinder air temp at TDC. I believe the last math equation I saw put a 17:1 compression ratio motor at 730*F when zero boost is present. Add in a few pounds of boost and you could hit 1000+ easily. Exhaust gas temperature has little correlation to pre ignition cylinder temperature. Plus, every cylinder is bound to have a few hot spots left over from the last combustion event.

If you kept propane at less than 2.2% it's lower flammability limit, you shouldn't have a problem. Do you see a power increase with just 2% propane injection?
 
Thanks big blue that post make the most sense so far. I guess there is a good reason most guys are not running it. i knida figured there was i just want to know why. I'll have to figure out the 2.2% flammability limit thing and see if it would be enough to help or not, and how much it would help. but its too late now so im going to bed. I think it may be enough to at least give a noticable boost in power.
It is also interesting that at 17.1 compression air is heated to 730 degrees. That means cylinder temps are 400+ degrees hotter than egts at idle. Gotta wonder how hot the cylinder is when you hit 1500 on your pyro.
 
I guess there is a good reason most guys are not running it.

Simple - propane advances timing in an uncontrolled manner; most if not all of the mileage increases associated with it's use don't factor in the BTU content; cost & inconvenience incurred by carrying around an additional fuel source; extra power is more easily & economically gained from higher rates of fuel injection, etc.
 
thinking of going propane for mileage, not power... timing is set at 16 degrees now...
do I need to go back to stock timing?
 
At 16 degrees you should be fine i am also running at 16 degrees and also running biodiesel with higher cetane which basically advances timing even more and in propane and im not sure what is going on in there. I have experimented with about 10-15 gallons of propane on my setup and i can’t seem to get really any increase in mileage, not even 1mpg. I am thinking i may need to set my timing back to see gains, im thinking by adding propane it is making the burn so quick to the peak cylinder pressures are happening too soon. I know with the kit I use they took a stock 12v and went from 22 highway to 30 highway and that is injecting 1 gallon propane to 4 gallons diesel burned-that tends to be close to the sweet spot for most diesels for mileage and if you stay in that neighborhood you will be fine. I have my system turned off over 30psi boost to ensure nothing bad happens.
I used to have it on my power stroke and went from 15-16 highway to 22 highway on 35’s with 3.73s. but it was also sensitive to timing the I had a ts chip and when ran in the 50hp setting I would see about 20mpg highway in the 100hp setting I would see 22, but in the 140hp setting I back down to 20mpg. Im pretty sure the 140hp setting had much more timing because I would see the best mileage in 140 without the propane.
That the only thing I don’t like about the 12v is its difficult to adjust timing compared to new electronic diesels.
 
many thanks for the feedback.... if I'm not going to gain substantial mileage, then it's flat not worth the trouble to plumb propane in.

vs a nice set of injectors would net me more HP, but because my 12v's injectors has only 75k miles. probably will not gain much if any mileage due to better spray pattern.

are the mileage quoted below... raw or net mileage after propane is subtracted?

At 16 degrees you should be fine i am also running at 16 degrees and also running biodiesel with higher cetane which basically advances timing even more and in propane and im not sure what is going on in there. I have experimented with about 10-15 gallons of propane on my setup and i can’t seem to get really any increase in mileage, not even 1mpg. I am thinking i may need to set my timing back to see gains, im thinking by adding propane it is making the burn so quick to the peak cylinder pressures are happening too soon. I know with the kit I use they took a stock 12v and went from 22 highway to 30 highway and that is injecting 1 gallon propane to 4 gallons diesel burned-that tends to be close to the sweet spot for most diesels for mileage and if you stay in that neighborhood you will be fine. I have my system turned off over 30psi boost to ensure nothing bad happens.
I used to have it on my power stroke and went from 15-16 highway to 22 highway on 35’s with 3.73s. but it was also sensitive to timing the I had a ts chip and when ran in the 50hp setting I would see about 20mpg highway in the 100hp setting I would see 22, but in the 140hp setting I back down to 20mpg. Im pretty sure the 140hp setting had much more timing because I would see the best mileage in 140 without the propane.
That the only thing I don’t like about the 12v is its difficult to adjust timing compared to new electronic diesels.
 
forget the propane

You should play with LNG instead. Roachie listed 842F (432C) for the autoignition temp of propane and LNG has a higher autoignition temp of 1,004°F (540°C). The BTU's are lower but we're trying to get a better burn of the high BTU diesel more than burn a second fuel for additional power. So more of the good and less of the bad for the engine. It just comes down to cost and availability, but there are better alternatives to, "pane."
 
Propane works the same way as cng-it fumigates the cylinder attempting to get an even burn of the diesel fuel. Essentially it takes out the hot spots/cold spots of combustion. When tuned proper running propane will lower egt 20-40 degrees. Propane is not used because of its btu content it aids the burn. Most engines see 30-50% reduction in fuel consumption while injecting 20% propane (1 gallon pane to 4 gallons diesel). Propane has about 70% btu content of diesel so you are adding 17.5% BTU to the motor and seeing 30-40% increase in efficiency of 12.5-32.5%. Propane is cheaper than diesel per btu, so you are saving slightly more than 12.5-32.5 on your fuel bill.

Mileages above that i stated were raw mileage 1 gallon pane to 4 gallons diesel. I need to play around with my timing setup a little and see if i can see some more gains. Your setup will see more improvement than mine because i am burning biodiesel which has 7-11% less energy, but it already burns more complete due to high cetane and oxygen content. So i may convert 35% to energy with bio and only 30% with diesel so the diesel would have more room for improvement.
 
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this confuses me further.... some claim no mileage increase, not even 1 mpg. once propane is deducted.

others claim a large efficiency increase like below.

Bully dog the mfg of my propane regulator kit claims a 20% + increase in mileage. but doesn't specify if that is net gain or with propane taken out.

Propane works the same way as cng-it fumigates the cylinder attempting to get an even burn of the diesel fuel. Essentially it takes out the hot spots/cold spots of combustion. When tuned proper running propane will lower egt 20-40 degrees. Propane is not used because of its btu content it aids the burn. Most engines see 30-50% reduction in fuel consumption while injecting 20% propane (1 gallon pane to 4 gallons diesel). Propane has about 70% btu content of diesel so you are adding 17.5% BTU to the motor and seeing 30-40% increase in efficiency of 12.5-32.5%. Propane is cheaper than diesel per btu, so you are saving slightly more than 12.5-32.5 on your fuel bill.

Mileages above that i stated were raw mileage 1 gallon pane to 4 gallons diesel. I need to play around with my timing setup a little and see if i can see some more gains. Your setup will see more improvement than mine because i am burning biodiesel which has 7-11% less energy, but it already burns more complete due to high cetane and oxygen content. So i may convert 35% to energy with bio and only 30% with diesel so the diesel would have more room for improvement.
 
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