The one gen
- Thread starter Zeppelin654
- Start date
Zeppelin654
New member
The snubber apparently wasn't letting fuel flow but I don't know why. I even flipped it around thinking I had the snubber in backwards. Still nothing. I took it out and left the needle valve in and it worked then. I backed it down to 50 psi at idle now. Tork tek recommends 10 psi pressure per governor spring size. 3k is 30 psi, 4k's set to 40psi etc. I have 4 k's now but I figure it'll pull the pressure down some at wot so it should still be happy.
I should note that I haven't tried to even turn the truck on since the turbo blew so I have my fingers crossed that was the only issue.
Since then I changed the timing to 22*, Fass 220 and deleted the stock pump, manifold is coming this week and then the new turbo will go on, tork tek 060hp ofv, new boots, new downpipe, new steering gear and sway bar bushings, added a water separator, and new mechanical fuel pressure gauge.
Should be a huge difference coming from 16* timing, stock manifold that wasn't port matched, big housing s400 with the bad clipped turbine wheel, and stock lift pump that was only makin 25 psi at idle
Let's hope nothing else was the cause of the original problem
I should note that I haven't tried to even turn the truck on since the turbo blew so I have my fingers crossed that was the only issue.
Since then I changed the timing to 22*, Fass 220 and deleted the stock pump, manifold is coming this week and then the new turbo will go on, tork tek 060hp ofv, new boots, new downpipe, new steering gear and sway bar bushings, added a water separator, and new mechanical fuel pressure gauge.
Should be a huge difference coming from 16* timing, stock manifold that wasn't port matched, big housing s400 with the bad clipped turbine wheel, and stock lift pump that was only makin 25 psi at idle
Let's hope nothing else was the cause of the original problem
Last edited:
Zeppelin654
New member
That sounds like a great idea IMO. I'm hoping the needle valve will work well enough, but if not, you could use a t fitting as you mentioned and plug off the end port that's far from the inlet port, and then run the rest of the line out of the side port. Then it would maybe push through, hit the far wall, then make its way out the side port. It'd be worth a try. I don't know.... $42 bucks for that isspro snubber with the diesel rated insert and it was showing 5 psi on my gauge. Maybe the truck needs to be running to actually make pulses which would in turn make the snubber plunger allow more flow so the gauge reads right but I wouldn't think so.
Makes me wonder too (since I haven't started the truck yet since installing that electric lift pump, if when I do fire it up, my fuel pressure will show lower than the 50 psi I have it set at (without the truck running and just the lift pump turned on) OR if pressure is pressure and it won't change
Makes me wonder too (since I haven't started the truck yet since installing that electric lift pump, if when I do fire it up, my fuel pressure will show lower than the 50 psi I have it set at (without the truck running and just the lift pump turned on) OR if pressure is pressure and it won't change
Last edited:
Zeppelin654
New member
I'll let you know if the pressure changes.
Zeppelin654
New member
Pressure actually went up 2 psi with the truck running. I'm at 52 psi now.
Zeppelin654
New member
New sway bar bushings:
New washer fluid pump:
Stock lift pump block off plate:
I've heard that Mag Hytec tells you to put wayyyyy too much fluid in. I think that is why my axle seals keep leaking. I lowered it to factory fill level. I've got my fingers crossed:
The fun stuff:
Some brackets I made:
New washer fluid pump:
Stock lift pump block off plate:
I've heard that Mag Hytec tells you to put wayyyyy too much fluid in. I think that is why my axle seals keep leaking. I lowered it to factory fill level. I've got my fingers crossed:
The fun stuff:
Some brackets I made:
Zeppelin654
New member
Here is my fuel setup. I have a few questions regarding tuning this pig:
Hellman fuel sump
all 1/2" lines
fass 220
stock delivery valves
stock lines
5x.016's from infinite performance
AFC mods:
washer mod
foot pivot turned all the way down for better contact
1/4" shaved off the barrel
boost line from head into a needle valve into the afc
no plate
housing fully forward
starwheel completely turned toward the motor
tst medium spring
pre boost screw one full turn in after contact
Any suggestions on tuning the afc with this setup? I have the starwheel completely backed off and the pre boost screw one full turn in after contact with the diaphragm. If I power brake it, there isn't much smoke. There is some, but not thick like I thought I'd see being that I have 5x.016's. PLEASE KNOW that I don't want to black out the world, but I am trying to make the most power I can out of my setup and I don't know if I'm going backward or forward with my moves. When I let off the powerbrake and hammer through the gears, there is no smoke at all until I hit overdrive and then flip the lock up switch and its just a small puff. Also, on a medium grade hill, I am at 900 degrees egt, and only reading about 4-5 lbs boost. I feel like I should be at least at 10-15 lbs boost and maybe 800 steady degrees. If I'm just cruising and roll into it pretty hard, theres pretty much no smoke but it goes from 4 lbs boost to 10-15 lbs pretty quick. If I put it to the floor, it will smoke quite a bit and after I pedal it a touch it will start to spool up after 5-7 seconds.....not "instant" like I'm looking for. Does it need more pre boost fuel? less? Looking at both scenarios, I feel like the first needs more fuel, but the second scenario means I should back the fuel off. Should I back the starwheel off to put a little more pressure on the spring? I've tinkered with it making small small adjustments, but each time it feels pretty much the same. I can't spin the tires at all and I keep hearing people say these sx-e chargers are beasts and you can spin the tires even from a roll. Plus I'm in a reg cab that only weighs 5400 lbs with me in it.
I'm open to any suggestions. I appreciate the help
Hellman fuel sump
all 1/2" lines
fass 220
stock delivery valves
stock lines
5x.016's from infinite performance
AFC mods:
washer mod
foot pivot turned all the way down for better contact
1/4" shaved off the barrel
boost line from head into a needle valve into the afc
no plate
housing fully forward
starwheel completely turned toward the motor
tst medium spring
pre boost screw one full turn in after contact
Any suggestions on tuning the afc with this setup? I have the starwheel completely backed off and the pre boost screw one full turn in after contact with the diaphragm. If I power brake it, there isn't much smoke. There is some, but not thick like I thought I'd see being that I have 5x.016's. PLEASE KNOW that I don't want to black out the world, but I am trying to make the most power I can out of my setup and I don't know if I'm going backward or forward with my moves. When I let off the powerbrake and hammer through the gears, there is no smoke at all until I hit overdrive and then flip the lock up switch and its just a small puff. Also, on a medium grade hill, I am at 900 degrees egt, and only reading about 4-5 lbs boost. I feel like I should be at least at 10-15 lbs boost and maybe 800 steady degrees. If I'm just cruising and roll into it pretty hard, theres pretty much no smoke but it goes from 4 lbs boost to 10-15 lbs pretty quick. If I put it to the floor, it will smoke quite a bit and after I pedal it a touch it will start to spool up after 5-7 seconds.....not "instant" like I'm looking for. Does it need more pre boost fuel? less? Looking at both scenarios, I feel like the first needs more fuel, but the second scenario means I should back the fuel off. Should I back the starwheel off to put a little more pressure on the spring? I've tinkered with it making small small adjustments, but each time it feels pretty much the same. I can't spin the tires at all and I keep hearing people say these sx-e chargers are beasts and you can spin the tires even from a roll. Plus I'm in a reg cab that only weighs 5400 lbs with me in it.
I'm open to any suggestions. I appreciate the help
Grudgeguy
1st gen moron
Curious to see what advice you get. Have similar boost and egt as you described with a 64/71 on a 97 P pump but that truck still has stock LP and injectors. But building boost on the brakes it will smoke. Also a bit of lag before boost builds, currently only making 32lbs or so. Blaming that on the stock fuel system.
I'm pretty green tuning p pumps, wish I could be of more help.
I'm pretty green tuning p pumps, wish I could be of more help.
Zeppelin654
New member
I'd say your stock injectors are limiting your max boost number. Even when I had the stock lift pump and 5x.016's with stock dv's, I saw 50 lbs boost with the previous 64/87/.9 charger. Theres pretty much always going to be a little lag before boost builds. I've been told if theres a bunch of smoke when you jump on it and its really slow to spool, the pre boost screw needs to get turned out a bit. 1/2 turn intervals. If you have a puff of smoke but the boost jumps up to 10-15 lbs pretty quick, the pre boost screw is probably in a "decent" spot. Turning the starwheel away from the motor (tightening against he spring) a few clicks at a time will help to slow the fueling rate and help a bit with egt's.
I just picked up the AFC Live race tuner for mine and 7mm delivery valves. I havent installed the dv's yet, but I'm hoping I can pre set my max fueling boost number to 50 psi and then adjust the ramp rate of the fueling to suit my driving style. I just want to see more boost when climbing hills to keep the egt down and have better response when I put the pedal down without making everything too hot before any boost starts to build. This should hopefully do the trick. I'll check back in when I get everything installed.
Apparently the magic (smaller 64.5mm) sx-e charger isn't a bolt on fix for response and lower egt, as I figured it wouldn't be. More tuning is still needed but I should be able to get it dialed in better now
I just picked up the AFC Live race tuner for mine and 7mm delivery valves. I havent installed the dv's yet, but I'm hoping I can pre set my max fueling boost number to 50 psi and then adjust the ramp rate of the fueling to suit my driving style. I just want to see more boost when climbing hills to keep the egt down and have better response when I put the pedal down without making everything too hot before any boost starts to build. This should hopefully do the trick. I'll check back in when I get everything installed.
Apparently the magic (smaller 64.5mm) sx-e charger isn't a bolt on fix for response and lower egt, as I figured it wouldn't be. More tuning is still needed but I should be able to get it dialed in better now
Zeppelin654
New member
here are my previous 181's on the left, compared to PDD's 7mm dv's on the right. I must say, they make way more power than the stock ones. They literally are what everyone says in the fact that they can be driven to seem like stock valves in town or wherever, or they can feel like full cuts if you put your foot to the wood. I'm very happy with them. The afc live is great too. I need more time in a straight line back road to test how fast I want the fuel to come on, but I love its ease of use.
Zeppelin654
New member
Wanted to tow my boat with this, so I wired in trailer lights, made a hitch (yes, I know the welds aren't perfect, but it will definitly get the job done for my 1500 lb boat and trailer combo), and added a diffused Rigid Ind. back up light:
Beat68CST
HP & $$
Where are we gonna make a wall of beer cans then?...
Zeppelin654
New member
http://www.rigidindustries.com/led-lighting/910512
I would have needed a different switch to be able to run it on, off, and auto in reverse. Maybe I still will but too many lights run off the headlight switch will blow and burn fuses all the time so the less on it the better. My boat has four small led lights on it so not much load on it at all.
Switch like this:
http://www.rigidindustries.com/installation-accessories/40181
The roll pan is a Grant Kustoms pan. I'm not sure if you can still get those however. I got it about a year and a half ago.
We can make that wall on top of the tonneau cover. . . Be like an aluminum bed
I would have needed a different switch to be able to run it on, off, and auto in reverse. Maybe I still will but too many lights run off the headlight switch will blow and burn fuses all the time so the less on it the better. My boat has four small led lights on it so not much load on it at all.
Switch like this:
http://www.rigidindustries.com/installation-accessories/40181
The roll pan is a Grant Kustoms pan. I'm not sure if you can still get those however. I got it about a year and a half ago.
We can make that wall on top of the tonneau cover. . . Be like an aluminum bed
Zeppelin654
New member
Zeppelin654
New member
Found sludge coming from breather tubes. Sent in an oil analysis to blackstone labs. Came back saying there was coolant in the oil and metal in the oil. Soooo, that sucks. There was no milky oil or oil in the coolant. Nothing on oil fill cap and dipstick looked perfect. They said to run it some more to clean it out so to say and send in after 1000 miles for another test.
So I was out driving it yesterday and I put the pedal down to the wood. 50 lbs of boost 90 mph lovin life. Then rpm shot to 4 grand and I had no power. Motor is still runnin fine but I now have reverse only. No park, 1, 2, 3, oor OD.
Looks like this big pig is gona get parked for about 10 years before I touch it again and have the money to do it right
So I was out driving it yesterday and I put the pedal down to the wood. 50 lbs of boost 90 mph lovin life. Then rpm shot to 4 grand and I had no power. Motor is still runnin fine but I now have reverse only. No park, 1, 2, 3, oor OD.
Looks like this big pig is gona get parked for about 10 years before I touch it again and have the money to do it right