17,000psi... now that aint right?

i dunno why its acting like that with swapping around injectors but i dont think it has much to do with my issue really... but i dunno... think maybe its just how there seated or something... im gonna do the block off each injector thing soon...and see how much drains... if any at all... i want to tomorrow but i got abunch of school work i gotta do so i may have to make it wait... or maybe ill do alittle bit of it... lol
 
When I test for high return I disconnect the head return hose at the back of the filter housing, plug the steel line where I took the hose off, couple a piece of hose to that and watch for return fuel...it's so simple and easy to get to that and instantly isolates the problem...but what do I know :blahblah1:
 
LReiff said:
When I test for high return I disconnect the head return hose at the back of the filter housing, plug the steel line where I took the hose off, couple a piece of hose to that and watch for return fuel...it's so simple and easy to get to that and instantly isolates the problem...but what do I know :blahblah1:
Click to expand...

i believe you! lol... im gonna do it... just didnt know if yall were disconnecting at the head or what... figured it wasnt the head... i gotta find me a bottle... lol
 
ok... im dumber then a caveman i guess cause im not thinkin its that easy... i got the in tank conversion does that change any of this up? ive got 2 lines to the back of the filter... on goes from the filter to the frame and back... the other (which is the one im thinkin your talking about) is closer to the block... but its shaped with a hole in the center for the banjo bolt (which i dropped and cant find now) one line coming in from the top (which looks like it goes to th back of the head) and one coming out of the bottom... not seeing how i can get a hose on this to get to container? i gotts block off he hole in the filter now also right? but still dont see how i can get a hose on this thing...
 
this may be easier. The line from the back of the head connects to the size of the filter housing, just after it toward the tank there's a rubber line in between the hard pipe from the filter to the tank. Take it apart there and just stick it in a jar or something to catch the fuel. You may need to get a screw clamp to put it back together cause I believe the hose has a OEM crimp clamp on it
 
so my return line... where it goes from rubber to metal at the frame... has no clamp... i can slip it on and off with 0!! force... i about to have to pull the freakin starter cause i cant find this dang banjo bolt now... the washer fell all the way down though! lol
 
ha... you had the same idea i was thinkin... but now i just gotta find the banjo bolt and maybe itll fix all my issues... or at least one of them...
 
LReiff said:
When I test for high return I disconnect the head return hose at the back of the filter housing, plug the steel line where I took the hose off, couple a piece of hose to that and watch for return fuel...it's so simple and easy to get to that and instantly isolates the problem...but what do I know :blahblah1:
Click to expand...


1) disconnect the head return hose at the back of the filter housing,
2) plug the steel line where I took the hose off,
3) couple a piece of hose to that (long enough to put into a container)
4) put the end of the hose into a clear container
5)crank engine, if it starts shut it off, if more than a teaspoon full of fuel comes out while cranking there is injector related problems, if not it's most likely something else

I never stated that a banjo bolt needed to be removed.








I guess I should have stated that mechanical skills are required :doh:
 
Huntingman27062 said:
so my return line... where it goes from rubber to metal at the frame... has no clamp... i can slip it on and off with 0!! force... i about to have to pull the freakin starter cause i cant find this dang banjo bolt now... the washer fell all the way down though! lol
Click to expand...

true, there's no psi on that line so it didn't need a clamp. I was going off memory and was thinking it had clamps.

FYI, that bolt you lost has 2 washers you need to find... one on each side of the banjo..... I hate it when that happens. I have quite a few tool/parts embedded some where in the engine compartment LOL
 
LReiff said:
1) disconnect the head return hose at the back of the filter housing,
2) plug the steel line where I took the hose off,
3) couple a piece of hose to that (long enough to put into a container)
4) put the end of the hose into a clear container
5)crank engine, if it starts shut it off, if more than a teaspoon full of fuel comes out while cranking there is injector related problems, if not it's most likely something else

I never stated that a banjo bolt needed to be removed.








I guess I should have stated that mechanical skills are required :doh:
Click to expand...

ive got mechanic skills... ive worked at nissan and on F-18 404 jet engines... a "step" up above these diesels... so im not mechanic idiot... obviously ur truck is different then mine for what ever reason... because i cant do what you said above... if your gonna get pissy with me then bye... i got a wife already for that...
 
triton said:
true, there's no psi on that line so it didn't need a clamp. I was going off memory and was thinking it had clamps.

FYI, that bolt you lost has 2 washers you need to find... one on each side of the banjo..... I hate it when that happens. I have quite a few tool/parts embedded some where in the engine compartment LOL
Click to expand...

im thinking the other washer is on the bolt... and the one that fell was between the hard line and the bowl... but i still cant find it and i can see everything from every angle... wheel well even... but no luck... wonder if dodge has them in stock... lol... ill do that before i pull that dang starter... when get the bnjo bolt back in it and take the line off the frame to stick in a container... theres nothing i can do about collecting fuel from the head and the bowl at the same time... its all one piece of metal tube from the back of the head all the way to the frame where theres a short part of rubber that i was talkin about was loose and actually all wet... is this ok or is the test not going to work collecting off them both?
 
Iirc (it been awhile since I've had a stock fuel system) trucks like his have a hard line from the back of the head to the filter housing and it doesn't turn to rubber till it gets to framerail. It ties into the cp3 and prv return at the filter housing so it would not be accurate at the rubber line connection at the frame rail.
 
I had to go back to your first post and now a couple questions...bare with me if you've answered any already

You say you had a shop run your rail psi... was this at Garmons or that other shop and how did they do it ? I take it you don't have a rail psi gauge ?

Where are you seeing the 17K ?? at speed, at WOT ???

I see where you say they checked the actual and demanded but, all that tells you is that the TPS is working correctly and the rail psi sensor is seeing what it should.... which you say it showed 1:1 so that's good.

The ring tine mod could be playing a part in sending incorrect signals and since it's easy enough to undo, you might try that.



Nasty... the newer trucks have that rubber line only inches from where the line leaves the housing. His is older so you may be correct
 
My bad! That is a solid steel line! Sorry Huntingman! I must have had the hose in mind that went to the pump. :doh:
You want to check the amount of flow coming out of the steel line but you will need to isolate it from the flow coming out of the filter housing.


Triton, I have a blown '06 motor here I was looking at...and my truck has been long converted to rubber!
 
triton said:
I had to go back to your first post and now a couple questions...bare with me if you've answered any already

You say you had a shop run your rail psi... was this at Garmons or that other shop and how did they do it ? I take it you don't have a rail psi gauge ?

Where are you seeing the 17K ?? at speed, at WOT ???

I see where you say they checked the actual and demanded but, all that tells you is that the TPS is working correctly and the rail psi sensor is seeing what it should.... which you say it showed 1:1 so that's good.

The ring tine mod could be playing a part in sending incorrect signals and since it's easy enough to undo, you might try that.



Nasty... the newer trucks have that rubber line only inches from where the line leaves the housing. His is older so you may be correct
Click to expand...

was not at garmons... the other shop had a big ole computer that said dodge r chrysler or something like that on it... we could shut each injector off one at a time also... but that surely didnt help much... and no but i was looking into buying a rail gauge last night... cause it sure would help right now...

17kish at WOT in idle and going down the road...

and ill reverse the tone ring mod just to check... from what i read when doing it it just advances the timing like 2 degrees or so... plays with the crank sensor...
 
LReiff said:
My bad! That is a solid steel line! Sorry Huntingman! I must have had the hose in mind that went to the pump. :doh:
You want to check the amount of flow coming out of the steel line but you will need to isolate it from the flow coming out of the filter housing.


Triton, I have a blown '06 motor here I was looking at...and my truck has been long converted to rubber!
Click to expand...

its all good... i knew something wasnt right... i dont see any way of isolating it away from the other... unless i can it screws on the back of the head like a injector line... only thing i think i could try it taking the line of and maybe sliding a fuel line over the nipple... but then im going to have fuel coming up the line from the bowl and all over the place...

looks like im back at square one...

and i had to go to jeff garmons to get another dang banjo bolt cause i never did find mine... some nice rigs up there already... for tomorrow... they was wanting me to run my built jeep XJ on the dyno lol... should have done it...
 
Huntingman27062 said:
was not at garmons... the other shop had a big ole computer that said dodge r chrysler or something like that on it... we could shut each injector off one at a time also... but that surely didnt help much... and no but i was looking into buying a rail gauge last night... cause it sure would help right now...

17kish at WOT in idle and going down the road...

and ill reverse the tone ring mod just to check... from what i read when doing it it just advances the timing like 2 degrees or so... plays with the crank sensor...
Click to expand...

sound like they did a injector shut down which will isolate a problem. You had the injectors out and tested though so, that was kind of a waste of time. I know Garmon's machine does a return flow and he would have been able to tell you if you were having a return issue. Not trying to down play what the other guys are telling you but, I think it might be another waste of time.

crank sensor, cam sensor, RP sensor, FCA.... they all send and receive voltage from the ECM and if one is off, the ECM has to adjust to compensate some where. Ya never know.

A RP gauge would definitely help a lot for diagnosis.

So, what showed the 17K ? Did the shop take the truck on the road with a scanner connected ?
 
yeah we ran the cable through the door and went down the road... ive got a brand new FCA cause at one time i did the CP3 mod... was thinking the whole time i screwed it up and kept messing with the FCA till i actually did screw it up... lol... so i had to get a new one... im trying to remember if i was having issues before i did the tone ring mod or not... buti cant remember... i think if it started acting up after i did it i would have known something wasnt right because of it... ive also wondered if re-flashing the ecm would do any good... because of the weird readings we were getting... ive also been keeping an eye on a rail pressure sensor on ebay but if need be Dr. performance sells them on ebay for only $60 now... i may get up in the morning and reverse the tone ring mod... im pretty much at quits for the day... thank for the help once again you all...
 
well... i remembered that it wasnt going to be that hard cause i only had to loosen the 4 bolts and spin the ring and didnt have to mess with the belt... didnt do anything other then i lost alittle power... tried taking my boost fooler off like this also and didnt change anything... my trucks basically back to stock now...
 
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