17,000psi... now that aint right?

i already know your fix. go out and get the motor hot and as soon as it is, crank down every feed tube nut. i was fighting this for over a year. you changed the injectors and when you cranked down the feed tubes, the motor had gotten cold. when the motor get hot, everything expands and your fuel pressure is hitting the return and your getting bad atomization, lots of smoke and heat, and your charger doesnt spool for poo. it seems like bad injectors and all sorts of things but i bet this fixes your problem!! lemme know after you do it.
 
i just got home so its already warm... but theres no way to get to all the injector tubes... unless i take all the lines and stuff back off again... you did this? and i have like no smoke... or running hot... but ill give it a shot anyways... just wont be able to today since it looks like it may take alittle time... because i was sticking a different set of cold injectors in there and the motor was hot as piss when i took it apart... i guess its worth a shot...
 
I've been thinking about the tube torque since Drasko posted and come to think of it I must have always over torqued the tubes. I used either a long box end wrench or a long ratchet and just cranked them down 'til they're good and tight...never had an leak issues either. $.02 Be careful when doing it this way...I did bend a tube once but I got lucky...it didn't leak.
 
this past time i used acouple different tools to get to the different nuts... 3/4in ratchet... wrench... short extension on one of them... and i torqued them alot! the first time i did with a torque wrench but its a pain to fit in there so i just torqued them down pretty tight... but im gonna try what he said above cause im pretty much willing to try anything at this point...
 
maybe made alittle head way... searched 03 hard start and read alot... of course most came back to injectors but i did find acouple guy who found it was there relief valve (new that) and COV (cascade overflow valve)... the guys with the relief valve said best way and cheapest way to do it was pull the relief valve out and fill the little hole in the bottom with a weld and grind down smooth... already had the welder out and grinder out so i did this just to make sure i have no bypass... and it didnt help but at least now im for sure... some of the guys said the "caps" alot of the times still leak and dont do any good... so thats why i did this... now i know... the other was the COV... i pulled it (pulled it in the past) and low and behold theres 2 chunks of metal sticking out of the lower holes... i pressed in the bottom to compress the spring inside and get the pieces out but heck... i dunno if they fell out or went deeper in... they vanished... it wasnt seating all the way though i did notice that... so i cleaned it up real good and re-installed... still had the issue... i read further on in this thread and someone said to blow in it and if it leaks air then its not seating all the way... pulled it back out and did that... still was leakin air... they said you can blow it out with a compressor and itll clean them out... but i think mines FUBAR... i think because it was metal and not dirt it may have scarred the insides... i got a buddy with a 03 and a new CP3 (so he says) so im going to pull his and stick it in mine before i buy one... and see what it does then... so we will see!
 
If your ecm is commanding 17k and you are getting 17k it is not going to go any higher. Try refashing the ecm and don't waste your time on injectors and connector tubes. You had your injectors tested and they are fine. Overtorqueing the tubes is going to ruin them.
 
davem3261 said:
If your ecm is commanding 17k and you are getting 17k it is not going to go any higher. Try refashing the ecm and don't waste your time on injectors and connector tubes. You had your injectors tested and they are fine. Overtorqueing the tubes is going to ruin them.
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i was probly going to do this before i tried anything else cause it was the next cheapest... im not sure how the computer would have "un"flashed itself?however i bid on a rail with the sensor and relief valve still on it and won it for $41 shipped... i didnt really care if i won or not but i bid and left... so i should be able to swap that sensor just to make sure... if not then ill just resale it or keep as a spare... and ill have another relief valve i can do whatever with... maybe swap it after i fix my problem...

i see this was your first post... you sign up just for me? lol :Cheer:

and i still got 2 days left and my extra set of injectors that were givin to me are already at $355... heck... he offered... and i would be a dummy not to have taken them!
 
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TheBigNasty said:
Search button.....Win! LOL
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yeah but i have read so many hard start threads it aint even funny... before and then again today... but this one i hadnt seen before... just a few kinda like it... we will see if it does anything for me... its a free try also so may as well...
 
i'm coming in on this a little late and kinda skimmed over every post but i read that your fuel pressure when your turn you key on is 7-8 psi what is it at idle?? a stock lift pump at idle and cruise should be 12-13 psi. with my aftermarket lift pump i'm running around 23psi of fuel pressure. if you are running nly 7-8psi of fuel pressure then you will have issues running higher rail pressure due to the cp3 not getting fuel.
 
SKYNYRD said:
i'm coming in on this a little late and kinda skimmed over every post but i read that your fuel pressure when your turn you key on is 7-8 psi what is it at idle?? a stock lift pump at idle and cruise should be 12-13 psi. with my aftermarket lift pump i'm running around 23psi of fuel pressure. if you are running nly 7-8psi of fuel pressure then you will have issues running higher rail pressure due to the cp3 not getting fuel.
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ive got 7-8 psi no matter what... WOT, idle... dont matter... but i have the intank conversion which from what the book says im sitting at the right psi... i have a dial fuel gauge that sits right about there always and i dont ever really see it move... lol... yesterday i had the COV out and bumped the started and fuel was spraying all over the place...
 
I have a stock in tank lift pump (05) and my fuel pressure reads 9 PSI without the engine running or at idle or light accel and drops to maybe 5-6 under hard pulls and I have no problem making 24K rail pressure, so feeding it 7-8 should be fine. So have you found a new "COV" yet?
 
im not talking about OVERtightening your feed tubes by any mean. im saying torque them down with the motor hot. thats what my issue was. it would run like a striped ass ape cold but as soon as it got hot, it didnt have anything. i dont hot rod a cold motor but you could tell under normal easy driving that it had more power cold. just get it hot, take the lines loose and crank down to spec(45ft-ibs?) and then go just a c(_)nt hair past that. lemme know what happens.
 
I know you're trying to help but, you can believe it that torquing cross over tubes the way you're talking about doesn't matter one bit. You're likely one of the only people who does that.

The tubes are made of very soft metal and are not prone to expanding and contracting. If they were, every truck on the road would have leaking tubes.

Also the torque on them is 37ft.lbs.... no more, no less. Don't torque them enough and you'll have a leak, torque them too much and you'll deform the head and you'll have a leak.
 
its not the feed tubes themselves expanding due to heat, its the head and it does a make a difference.
it was my fix for a year long problem that worked. the high pressure was leaking through. hell call john at floorit, he had a very odd problem with a truck that had the exact same symptoms and he remembered me talking about it in the shop one day and problem solved. from my experiences and the symptoms this trucks showing, it might be the fix.
 
i mean ill give it a shot and see... but what ill do is get it hot and then pull it apart and back the nuts off... then tighten to spec... its worth a try i guess... yeah i just got home from my buddies and th COV didnt do anything... sucks... thought i had it... question is where did the metal shavings come from... not through the filter... like i said i had modded the FCA and gears on the bump but as big as these shaving were... i dont see how i could have missed them... my buddy said theres a guy in the next town over who reflashed his computer for $65 with all the latest stuff which is alot cheaper then dodge... think im going to try that next... mainly because theres no telling if its EVER been done... so im sure it needs its... if that dont help then i guess im gonna find a CP3 somewhere...
 
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