1967 RS Duramax Camaro

Great work, it looks awesome. The only thing I think that may not pass NHRA is your removable hoop cross bar. I'm pretty sure that has to be welded solid in there. Make sure you have the chassis inspected before you paint it if you plan on racing it. I have to redo the back portion of mine because we did what the book said, but it isn't exactly how they wanted it. Maybe I'll save you some time. LOL
 
DieselWrencher said:
Great work, it looks awesome. The only thing I think that may not pass NHRA is your removable hoop cross bar. I'm pretty sure that has to be welded solid in there. Make sure you have the chassis inspected before you paint it if you plan on racing it. I have to redo the back portion of mine because we did what the book said, but it isn't exactly how they wanted it. Maybe I'll save you some time. LOL
Click to expand...

I was google searching all kinds of nhra certification stuff today to find out how I can get my cage/chassis certified in case I do decide to race it somewhere besides my local track, and didn't really come up with an answer. How did you go about getting yours certified? I heard that one of their techs will make a house call (come to you), but I don't know for sure.
 
I modified the lower oil pan for better ground clearance, which also required modifying the pickup tube. It was necessary in order to actually drive the car around and not worry about puncturing it.

1354336396.jpg

1354336413.jpg

1354336439.jpg

1354336464.jpg

1354336482.jpg


I used a large piece of 1/4" plate and traced the sectioned lower oil pan onto it, then cut it with a plasma cutter. I also removed and reinstalled the original drain plug in the lowest and rear most point of the pan.

1354336511.jpg

1354336529.jpg
 
1354336551.jpg

1354336572.jpg

1354336589.jpg

1354336614.jpg


I fully welded the pan to the 1/4" plate inside and out. I retained the low oil sensor as well.
 
I finally ordered some coilovers for the rear from summit. They are QA1 Proma Stars. Pretty inexpensive and I think will get the job done.

1354409128.jpg

1354409190.jpg
 
I dug the alternator assembly out of my storage to test fit it. In the stock location there was no way a hood was going to fit.

1354336644.jpg


So after some thinking and measuring, I realized that the opposite side of the motor was a great mounting location.

1354336672.jpg

1354336690.jpg


And my 2" cowl induction hood officially fits. There is 1 edge of the hood inner structure that the alternator touches, so grinding a 1/4" off of the edge and it's good to go. :rockwoot:
 
Drooling on my keyboard over here...

I have a 68 Mustang Coupe, you think a 6.4 Powerstroke would fit LOL
 
logant said:
Updates?
Click to expand...

Not much to update. I've been working on the tubs and trunk sheet metal. I loaded some pictures in my photobucket account but I'm waiting to get more done before I keep updating this thread.

Good things come to those who wait. :evil
 
bikeluver43 said:
Drooling on my keyboard over here...

I have a 68 Mustang Coupe, you think a 6.4 Powerstroke would fit LOL
Click to expand...

Only 1 way to find out LOL If you cut out those shock towers and convert it over to mustang 2 it would be easier...
 
Love this build up man. You're doing a hell of a good job, and can't wait to see the finished product!
 
dslhtrdr said:
I was google searching all kinds of nhra certification stuff today to find out how I can get my cage/chassis certified in case I do decide to race it somewhere besides my local track, and didn't really come up with an answer. How did you go about getting yours certified? I heard that one of their techs will make a house call (come to you), but I don't know for sure.
Click to expand...

If you call a local NHRA track or contact the NHRA directly, they should be able to give you the name and number of a local NHRA licensed chassis inspector.
 
The wheel tubs and trunk floor have been one of the most difficult parts of this build so far, and I'm not kidding about that. Taking the time to get my tolerances how they should be is very time consuming to say the least.

The wheel tubs need to be assembled first. I got these from Chassisworks, and they have Pittsburgh seams which makes installation easier. I used the cardboard packaging to make templates, as per the instructions. I had Bernie help me with the first wheel tub.

1355628399.jpg

1355628382.jpg


We needed to measure over from the wheel tub end over to the quarter panel every couple inches to get the rough contour. Then, a body contour tool is used to trace the exact shape onto the template.

1355628366.jpg

1355628352.jpg


Installation of the tubs required more trimming of the inner quarters.

1355628227.jpg

1355628208.jpg

1355628336.jpg

1355628301.jpg

1355628316.jpg

1355628287.jpg

1355628274.jpg

1355628264.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top