2.6 puller/street cam opinions?

rollincoalCTD said:
Did you say thay lope will not be a concern? Since when did cams make diesels lope?

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I apologize to all my multiquote funtion doesnt seem to want to work today...
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhZw-nQaIOI"]Cummins Dodge Expensive Hooker - YouTube[/ame]
maybe he took his headlight out for it to lope ya spose? $.02 put it back in your change jar.
 
I'm sorry AHall but i don't have a douche attitude just would like if someone would comment to help not to be a douche and i have got quite a bit of reputable help not everything that's being discussed is talked about on here but on the telephone. I give credit where its due and i will listen to any bit of information that's given to me but if someone wants to comment it should at least be helpful wouldn't ya say. I've followed some of your threads and am well aware of the intelligence and capability you possess so my ears are open to you and the other people that i have researched on that have had a foot in the door on this thread don't think i'm being a douche because i wont put up with ignorance, even people like me, dvst8r, disturbed got off on a bad note i just didn't like the accusations that were being made therefore i still respect both of them because i'm perfectly capable of analyzing. If they weren't intelligent people they would be as good at doing what they i also give a thank you to comp461, csynder, AHall, smokem, lenahan, and anyone i may have left out. I will respect anybody that shows a little respect. Just saying.
 
So if we may get back to the thread, machine shop called today and the pistons are junk the ring grooves are wore out so that's a bummer but i've been told that the 04.5 and up common rail pistons are going to be the way we want to go. Any suggestions on these?
With them are we going to have to change the spray angle? The pistons will end up getting coated aswell.
 
The last couple posts seemed a little to the left. A decent budget 2.6 engine can be had and maintain a simple parts.

Already mentioned are the more important items, but everything has to work together, as you know. Try and find a p size with 13mm plungers. There are some china p&b's to be weary of floating around out there. Genuine bosch is the only way to go IMO. The cheaper (italy?) plungers have good results as well for a little more bargain. A standard quickrate 903 cam found in 911 and 913 pumps is much more ideal than the 901 cam. A custom ground quickrate is just that much better for injection rate over the 903. You really don't need to get too crazy on holder size.

Injectors from Weston are a given. A set of SAC nozzles in the 5/20 or 5/22 will do well. Cone angle, lifts, etc will be depending on pistons and a few other things taken into consideration. You can save some money by not having edge filter removed or dual fed ports.

Choosing a proper turbo is directly tied to money. There are some cheap TV options that do well, clipped BW's, gt50's, expensive hx60's and precisions.

Cam profile has been discussed, even though I still feel confident in the 200/220 comment I made originally.

Girdle always helps. Depending on the power you're looking for a CR block stiffener might work. Or something like my monster KPP full girdle and main studs.

Stock polish and peened rods. HD bolts are a must.

Mahle makes several viable pistons. I have a couple preferences.

After a mild port i'd be willing to bet high gains in the valve job. Keep intake on to save money.

Couple good valvetrain options all priced in the same general area.

Steed manifold with TS or JGS w/g.

Good w/a IC.

Lots of great info on here if you just search. Sadly there is a lot of misinformation on here too. Continue to read and ask. There are certainly more intelligent people here than me. Use your resources.
 
Smokem said:
And that is where you don't understand.

Here are some facts; a good group of guys went and built a diesel rail, set and backed up a new NHRDA record, all without you and or your ideas. They did it with their own budget, and without patting themselves on the back on the internet.
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Not to mention, who designed that series of engine from scratch, and who owns the rights to it?
 
WEBERBUILT said:
So if we may get back to the thread, machine shop called today and the pistons are junk the ring grooves are wore out so that's a bummer but i've been told that the 04.5 and up common rail pistons are going to be the way we want to go. Any suggestions on these?
With them are we going to have to change the spray angle? The pistons will end up getting coated aswell.
Click to expand...



I like the bowl design of the 04.5 and up, the shallow and wide bowl make for a better flame front propagation. With the shallow bowl you also get a far better combustion chamber purge. If you go with a cast core cam then a 230 215 on a 112 installed in at 115 ILCL works really well, on limited chargers. The cam has a .375 intake lift, and a .345 exhaust lift. You absolutely need to make the change to the ring package, on a 2.6 engine there is close to 50 hp there. I would recommend Industrial Injection for the injectors. Any help I can give you, I don’t mind helping.
 
AHall said:
The last couple posts seemed a little to the left. A decent budget 2.6 engine can be had and maintain a simple parts.

Already mentioned are the more important items, but everything has to work together, as you know. Try and find a p size with 13mm plungers. There are some china p&b's to be weary of floating around out there. Genuine bosch is the only way to go IMO. The cheaper (italy?) plungers have good results as well for a little more bargain. A standard quickrate 903 cam found in 911 and 913 pumps is much more ideal than the 901 cam. A custom ground quickrate is just that much better for injection rate over the 903. You really don't need to get too crazy on holder size.

Injectors from Weston are a given. A set of SAC nozzles in the 5/20 or 5/22 will do well. Cone angle, lifts, etc will be depending on pistons and a few other things taken into consideration. You can save some money by not having edge filter removed or dual fed ports.

Choosing a proper turbo is directly tied to money. There are some cheap TV options that do well, clipped BW's, gt50's, expensive hx60's and precisions.

Cam profile has been discussed, even though I still feel confident in the 200/220 comment I made originally.

Girdle always helps. Depending on the power you're looking for a CR block stiffener might work. Or something like my monster KPP full girdle and main studs.

Stock polish and peened rods. HD bolts are a must.

Mahle makes several viable pistons. I have a couple preferences.

After a mild port i'd be willing to bet high gains in the valve job. Keep intake on to save money.

Couple good valvetrain options all priced in the same general area.

Steed manifold with TS or JGS w/g.

Good w/a IC.

Lots of great info on here if you just search. Sadly there is a lot of misinformation on here too. Continue to read and ask. There are certainly more intelligent people here than me. Use your resources.
Click to expand...

Sorry if i came out that way with my comments i apologize to everyone, i have been doing a pile of researching but i run into the problem i can't search fast enough and retain enough of the knowledge for the schedule this engine is on but i think for safetys sake the time will hae to be sacrificed. You did however give me alot of good suggestions that i would have had to search a ton to get the same answers and now i can specifically look into some of those options much appreciated...

COMP461 said:
I like the bowl design of the 04.5 and up, the shallow and wide bowl make for a better flame front propagation. With the shallow bowl you also get a far better combustion chamber purge. If you go with a cast core cam then a 230 215 on a 112 installed in at 115 ILCL works really well, on limited chargers. The cam has a .375 intake lift, and a .345 exhaust lift. You absolutely need to make the change to the ring package, on a 2.6 engine there is close to 50 hp there. I would recommend Industrial Injection for the injectors. Any help I can give you, I don’t mind helping.
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You have been very helpful as soon as you PM some of that info we can talk a little more about some options....thanks again
 
WEBERBUILT said:
no gaurantees as always but definatly like to see what EVERYONE has to offer...
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That's good...it's when people only listen to one opinion they get mislead.
Seems like some people are struggling with the 04.5-07 piston design in p pump 24v. Could be other issues though.

from phone
 
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he is running a 24 valve head.

here is what we are using for pistons. this is a 19.5 to 1 pistons with the trick rings .


IMAG0421.jpg


here is my design for a Dmax piston as well


IMAG1128.jpg
 
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COMP461 said:
he is running a 24 valve head.

here is what we are using for pistons. this is a 19.5 to 1 pistons with the trick rings .


IMAG0421.jpg


here is my design for a Dmax piston as well


IMAG1128.jpg
Click to expand...

How many class champion pulling trucks run this piston design?
 
COMP461 said:
he is running a 24 valve head.

here is what we are using for pistons. this is a 19.5 to 1 pistons with the trick rings .


IMAG0421.jpg


here is my design for a Dmax piston as well


IMAG1128.jpg
Click to expand...
Yeah I know he has a 24v head That's why I typed 24v.

So You want him to run 19.5:1 ppump 24v?

from phone
 
quite a few are finding that this path to power is working very well. I see the development in cylinder head and cam's going hand in hand with the EFI live tunning making it had to run with out .
 
COMP461 said:
quite a few are finding that this path to power is working very well. I see the development in cylinder head and cam's going hand in hand with the EFI live tunning making it had to run with out .
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So you can get efi for a p pump now :eek:
What I'm saying is for this build. You think a 24v ppump motor will live at 19.5:1. Stop talking about dmax stuff when it has nothing to do with this.

from phone
 
ClamDigger4 said:
So you can get efi for a p pump now :eek:
What I'm saying is for this build. You think a 24v ppump motor will live at 19.5:1. Stop talking about dmax stuff when it has nothing to do with this.

from phone
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Agreed the op only wants help/info on a 24v ppump build up not cr. You can not compare cr to ppump Greg. How many pullers/ street trucks run that kind of compression ratio? None that I no of. The power you want you can get with a 12mm ppump but you really should throw the volume at it and go with a 13mm. Leaves lots of room for future parts and tuning.
 
ClamDigger4 said:
So you can get efi for a p pump now :eek:
What I'm saying is for this build. You think a 24v ppump motor will live at 19.5:1. Stop talking about dmax stuff when it has nothing to do with this.

from phone
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He has a good point Greg how many ppump 24 valves run this piston with luck and yes we will not be running that high of compression unless someone else is putting a warranty on this engine haha
 
Your facts are in wrong, but that will not be the first time

At far 12 valves vs. CR EFI live, if you building a motor program and spending the money it takes to be competitive on a national level, there is no substitute for the attributes of the latter. I still go with compression in any limited air engine.
 
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