8.3L Cummins Transplant

Snedge said:
The pump isn't still pinned is it?
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No, sir. The pump pin was used when I installed the pump gear to make sure everything was at TDC and then it was turned around. The timing pin in the gear case is also "out."
 
Make sure all of the rods will slide back and forth on the rod journals. Then flip it back right side up and remove the push tubes and see how it spins then.
It did spin alright while installing the mains, right?

ON EDIT >>>
You don't have to remove all the push tubes at once. When rolling it over, pay attention to the valves and their position. Start removing the tubes on the valves that are opened first. That way you can maybe pin point the cylinder that is causing the issue.
 
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Snedge said:
Make sure all of the rods will slide back and forth on the rod journals. Then flip it back right side up and remove the push tubes and see how it spins then.
It did spin alright while installing the mains, right?

ON EDIT >>>
You don't have to remove all the push tubes at once. When rolling it over, pay attention to the valves and their position. Start removing the tubes on the valves that are opened first. That way you can maybe pin point the cylinder that is causing the issue.
Click to expand...

Push tube = push rods correct? I'm assuming I'm on the same page as you.

I know I wiggled it back and forth while installing mains but I don't honestly know if I turned it over like I'm trying to now. If I didn't, I should have.
 
The cam end of the push rods from cylinder 2.
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From dumb phone.
 
At this point you may as well finish the overhaul Jory. Damnit I hate to see that. Fricken irrigation engines are the devil i swear.
 
Is there pitting? You might be able to hone that out and clean up the piston if the skirt isn't bad. Hard to tell on my phone.

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TheBigNasty said:
That went south fast. It was like that when you picked it up you think?
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It sure as hell didn't get that way setting in my shop on a stand! :hehe:

The fukker lied to me. Said it ran. Bull crap. He is a member here also. Not sure what his username is though.

Rear rod on #2 and #4 are also effed.

I guess I'll shop for the place that will give me the best deal on a full overhaul. I don't want to work on it again. I want it to run correctly and be done. It's gonna need the valves ran on the head as well.

One of these is not like the other. LOL

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#4

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Cross hatching is still visible on all other cylinders except #4 and can be honed I'm sure. #3 has hatching but a line of dripped water rust or something.

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The head gasket looked really good. I didn't see signs of it being blown at all. #4 obvisously had water in it at some point. Not sure how it got there. It had to come through the intake which is weird that none of the other cylinders got it.....or does that mean a crack could have let it in from the water? That would mean it would be in the head. This is going to hell fast.
 

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Or the guy let it sit all fall and winter on the irrigation unit. Snow, rain, and other chit got in. He went to start it and couldn't. Enter Jory, the unsuspecting buyer.

Engines that sit outside find ways to let water in everywhere.
 
What should someone expect to pay to have the liners honed, probably one replaced, valve job, and get the bottom end and valve train buttoned up and ready to run?
 
4x4dually said:
What should someone expect to pay to have the liners honed, probably one replaced, valve job, and get the bottom end and valve train buttoned up and ready to run?
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Depends how nice people are. Where you located again? I would Put it together for you.
 
What do the rest of them look like?

Stick one hole in it and roll on....IMHO. Not like you're going OTR in it. Still much better than an 8.2L.
Chris
 
Fill it full of half trans fluid and half acetone and let it sit overnight. I've made a rusty cylinder look brand new doing that

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Ok, so I clean up the one cylinder....maybe... What makes it eat the end of a couple push rods off?
 
Snedge said:
Hows it turn over with the head removed?
Click to expand...

I sprayed #4 with some PB Blaster. It turns over good until it reaches the top. Then it binds again. I'm sure with a hone it will cross TDC and go back down. Right now, it will almost get to TDC but I have to turn it back. I haven't forced anything to hard yet.

Like I said, the rest of the holes look decent and still have hatching showing.
 
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