8.3L Cummins Transplant

I sprayed #4 with some PB Blaster. It turns over good until it reaches the top. Then it binds again. I'm sure with a hone it will cross TDC and go back down. Right now, it will almost get to TDC but I have to turn it back. I haven't forced anything to hard yet.

Like I said, the rest of the holes look decent and still have hatching showing.

You can handle this one Jory.

I bet if you had been cranking this over with the starter it would have whipped right through that rusty lip. It may have broken a ring in the process, but I don't think this is a severe issue at all.
A little water found it's way into that cylinder and did what water does.

Just making the point that your engine is far from junk.


You will need to clean that top ledge and see if you can get it to roll over. Once, and if, it rolls freely, we can decide whether to pull that piston and look at the rings, or just keep bathing it in blaster until it looks good, then maybe, put it together as is.
FWIW I would not recommend new rings on an old liner.
 
Absolutely no new rings on old liner...bastard WILL use oil. Now, it just might use oil.

Chris
 
acetone and trans fluid is what I use for penetrating oil on everything. Works very well. Hopefully the thing wasn't starved of oil. Be interesting to see what the cam looks like. A liner, piston, and rings is probably around the $200 mark. If the rest looks good just replace the hole and be done. As mentioned it isn't an OTR application.
 
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Cam looks good just looking at it with a flashlight from the bottom....but then again, so did the liners from the bottom. LOL

Are there any chances the liners got pin holes and allow water into them from the block? I'm trying to explain the rust in hole #3.

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I add no intellectual value to this thread, other than I am glad to see that you decided on an 8.3L vs a 5.9L for this swap.

A pin hole in the line may explain the rust inside cylinder #3. Could be a good possibility especially if it has never had the coolant changed and ran green antifreeze without a treated filter.
 
I really doubt a pin hole. Valves open and rainwater would make a lot more since for what we're talking about here. Would make sense if 3 and 4 are the only rusty ones.

Chris
 
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I really doubt a pin hole. Valves open and rainwater would make a lot more since for what we're talking about here. Would make sense if 3 and 4 are the only rusty ones.

Chris

I gotcha now....3 and 4 are the closest to the inlet on the manifold. Duh. Makes perfect sense now. They took in enough to do damage. The two on each end took a little bit but only enough that it could be burned out and dried up before shut off.
 
A little bit of water goes a long way on bare steel too you have to remember. Hell the parts I sand blast start rusting as you take them out of the cabinet on a dry winter day it seems LOL
 
So, if I want this POS to NOT burn oil, can I have the sleeves honed by a local shop and put a new set of rings on decently affordable?

I really don't mind putting a tad more into it as long as it makes it better. I dayum sure want to do it now while it is on a stand and not already in the truck.

What do you all recommend other than soaking it in pather piss and letting her eat? I don't like that option. I'm a tight ass, but not that tight.
 
Price a couple new liners....I'm betting Jeff can get a couple McBee's for $100, and 2 ring sets. Even if you want to re-use the pistons, the important stuff is new.

Chris
 

I understand that it can help break up the rust....but how in the hell could the rings ever seal and not burn oil once they are pushed past pitted crap and now have vertical gouges in them? I don't want to have to add a quart every time I drive the dang thing and I don't want one of them smokey blue pigs like Kern's Construction runs through town fogging up the entire place. LOL
 
LOL

The minor cylinder doesn't look to me like it has anything other than surface rust (from what I can see in the picture)

The worse cylinder I would soak it just to see what comes off and go from there. It may surprise you. Either way, you won't be out but a couple bucks of penetrant.

A friend and I soaked 6 cylinders in a little 5.3 cylinder for about a week that was locked up tight when we got it. By the time it was done with just a little bit elbow grease I'm almost sure we could have started it up and ran it.
 
Pull it apart and look at it, find out where the water came from. Coolant has corrosion Inhibitors and can be there a while before it will rust on hard treat material.
More likely fresh water. Pulling the liner will tell the story. You might get away with cleaning and honing and a set of rings
 
Pull it apart and look at it, find out where the water came from. Coolant has corrosion Inhibitors and can be there a while before it will rust on hard treat material.
More likely fresh water. Pulling the liner will tell the story. You might get away with cleaning and honing and a set of rings

This engine was sitting outside with a straight pipe, at a time of record rains in Oklahoma....Sounds like we found the water to me.

Chris
 
I'm confused by you two, but I'm entirely too tired to explain myself. I'll be under my rock.....
 
I've started engines with turbo fins rusted to the housing cause the exhaust was open and got water into the pistons. Knocked the rust out of the turbo with a hammer and had some brown exhaust for awhile but they are still running to this day.
 
So I soaked the holes with acetone and ATF. I got it to turn all the way over now so at least I can get the slug out the top and not have to dismantle the entire bottom end to replace the sleeve. #4 needs a sleeve. It is way past use. When my finger nail catches on the rust pits...it is time to scrap that hole. I've emailed Mr. Snedge with detail for parts. The other five holes cleaned up really nice with the magic solution. I can actually read the part numbers in the top of the pistons now. LOL
 
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