8.3L Cummins Transplant

lol is it an auto? Could be a race truck.

How come you don't want to clean up the valves yourself?
 
:hehe:

That and I don't have a spring tool. LOL

Broadway Machine in OKC wanted $750 to rework the head.
NAPA Machine Shop in Ponca City wants $250 for the same work. ;)
 
madmikeismad said:
lol is it an auto? Could be a race truck.

How come you don't want to clean up the valves yourself?
Click to expand...

No. It's currently a 5 speed with a 2 speed rear axle. Going to be a 6 speed if it is a bolt up swap. I have the 6 speed laying here courtesy of a good friend up in Oh Hi O.

Do think if I touch anything that it will seal? Riiiight. LOL

I might have my neighbor build me a spring compressor tonight on his mill and see what they look like for S-n-G's.
 
4x4dually said:
I might have my neighbor build me a spring compressor tonight on his mill and see what they look like for S-n-G's.
Click to expand...


You built a guldurn injector puller, surely a spring compressor is not out of your realm.

I bet those seats and valves will clean up nicely.

I will say that resurfacing the head since it's off is probably a good idea.
 
I saw shorty today and asked him about machining it. He said he can't do it but heard good things about the Enid napa.

Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk
 
Just run it. Let her eat. Lol

dd02e72297fffdebd2fc4d7c1c0cdcbb.jpg



From dumb phone.
 
Enid might work. Pig show is there next weekend. I could pick it up then. I'm sure that work into the show plans. LOL


From dumb phone.
 
Damn, they don't charge that much for 5.9 stuff lol.

To remove the springs, just use a cut off wheel and grind though the retainer. Works every time. LOL
 
I'm curious to know if the heads on the 6CTs are prone to cracking between the injector bore and valve seat like the 5.9s are.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
RockinRam96 said:
I'm curious to know if the heads on the 6CTs are prone to cracking between the injector bore and valve seat like the 5.9s are.
Click to expand...

I can't speak for "typical," but I scrubbed a little with some acetone and I don't see any cracks anywhere around the injector holes, between the valves, or any of the water ports. Looks pretty decent honestly. The seats in the head are also pretty decent. It is the valves themselves that rusted to schidt. Gonna need at least four of them reground I'm guessing. I only pulled the worst one I saw. I tried its companion but the Nigerian compressor I used pushed the entire spring and cap and retainer down. I couldn't get the retainer to turn loose on it. I gave up. Someone else can do it.
 
4x4dually said:
I can't speak for "typical," but I scrubbed a little with some acetone and I don't see any cracks anywhere around the injector holes, between the valves, or any of the water ports. Looks pretty decent honestly. The seats in the head are also pretty decent. It is the valves themselves that rusted to schidt. Gonna need at least four of them reground I'm guessing. I only pulled the worst one I saw. I tried its companion but the Nigerian compressor I used pushed the entire spring and cap and retainer down. I couldn't get the retainer to turn loose on it. I gave up. Someone else can do it.
Click to expand...


You have to hold the valve in place by either laying the head flat on it's face or clamping the valve closed. Once the spring is compressed you mostly need to smack it to get the retainer to let go.
 
Do you know how many hours were on the engine? It doesn't appear to have many on it.
 
Snedge said:
You have to hold the valve in place by either laying the head flat on it's face or clamping the valve closed. Once the spring is compressed you mostly need to smack it to get the retainer to let go.
Click to expand...

It was flat on it's face but it just lifted. I didn't put too much effort into it. I was tired. Did you find a sleeve puller and setter?

RockinRam96 said:
Do you know how many hours were on the engine? It doesn't appear to have many on it.
Click to expand...

Enough hours to wear the thrust bearing completely off so that it fell in the pan. Other than that, no idea. It probably would have been as easy as replacing the mains and starting it up if someone hadn't of left it outside in the effin rain. *bdh*
 
Last edited:
I had my 5.9 valves stick like you are having, once you get it lifted just hit the head with a dead blow and it will drop back down, or before you start turn the head on its side and hit each of the valves with the hammer to free them up and you won't have the issue.
 
lorendiesel5.9 said:
You'd be surprised how long that thing would run.



I have a video somewhere of a 12v71 Detroit that got water in it. Wouldn't bar over at all, pulled the injectors, soaked the pistons, knocked the rust off the turbo fins with a hammer and ran it. It was down about 20lbs of boost for the first half hr. It survived an hr at max power at 1800rpm so it was deemed good to go. All that aside I get why Jory is fixing it all.
Click to expand...

I had a 4-153 GM do basically the same thing....12 Coke 2 liter's poured in the exhaust with the valves pushed open until I could budge it, then hooked PTO to PTO and spun it over backwards...Would have been fine had the blower not had been stuck too. Busted the blower.

Making a GM 2 stroke run without a blower was FUN!!! 2x6 board with 2 1/2" holes drilled in, 2 rubber tip blowguns stuck into holes, and zip tied open...it would run about 1200RPM. Just enough I knew it actually would run again on it's own, so I ordered a new blower. Supposed to be 115HP when new, dynoed 99hp 40 years later after being stuck for 2 years.

Chris
 
Sorry, brain in the wrong spot. 4-53.

I knew when I typed that, something didn't look right.
Chris
 
Didn't they make one in the 100 inch range?
I crushed 3 baby Detroits back in 06, I wish I had kept them
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top