8.3L Cummins Transplant

Crankshaft End Play 0.005 – 0.013”

Ummm....ya....we are WAAAAaaaaaay beyond that. Phukk me.

It also blows air back out the intake when barring the crank over on occasion. Assuming it needs a valve job now too. My mood has changed on a dime.
 
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Cut that oil filter open that was on it yet? I haven't had an 8.3 apart yet but I had an ism we got used at the shop. Ran perfect. Pulled the pan to check the rods and mains before we sold it and the previous rebuilder did the crank thrust delete on it LOL we tossed a thrust in and it still runs perect today.
 
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Not yet. I'm trying to get the big bastage on the stand and off my floor so I can move it and work on it. My neighbor is going to see his dad this weekend and get his boring jig for his mill so he can machine a 6.1" diameter hole in this plate. Then we will drill the rest of the adapter plate and I can get it mounted up.

I'm assuming it may have to go to a rebuilder now. Not sure I'm savvy enough to rebuild. It took me over an hour to pull the IP since I couldn't even spell ppump before I bought this. LOL

I can tell you it has oil in it....and I can tell you it stains anything it get within an inch from black as coal.
 
How thick of plate you need cut out Jory? If its .375 or under send me the soildworks drawing and I'll get it shipped out today.

We have a nice plasma table at work that does wonders.
 
4x4dually said:
Not yet. I'm trying to get the big bastage on the stand and off my floor so I can move it and work on it. My neighbor is going to see his dad this weekend and get his boring jig for his mill so he can machine a 6.1" diameter hole in this plate. Then we will drill the rest of the adapter plate and I can get it mounted up.

I'm assuming it may have to go to a rebuilder now. Not sure I'm savvy enough to rebuild. It took me over an hour to pull the IP since I couldn't even spell ppump before I bought this. LOL

I can tell you it has oil in it....and I can tell you it stains anything it get within an inch from black as coal.
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Am I remembering right that this was a power unit for irrigation? If so it makes sense. All of the power units we had out at my previous job got worked to hell and service was a no no I guess since all of the oil was cooked in them. Granted most of ours were 5.9 and 6.7 engines. One 5.9 got hot enough to melt the boot off of the turbo outlet....

Pull the filter and cut it open. If there isn't a ton of material then check the rods and mains. If all is well forget it an run the thing on a stand. If it runs well install and forget it. For what you want to do I wouldn't worry too heavily unless it is trashed. You may be able to clean up the slop on the crank end play and never worry about it again.
 
turbom700 said:
How thick of plate you need cut out Jory? If its .375 or under send me the soildworks drawing and I'll get it shipped out today.

We have a nice plasma table at work that does wonders.
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I got a 24" diameter, 1/2 thk plate at the local steel shop that was a scrap from their plasma table for $20. I printed a 1:1 template on the plotter. We just need to center punch it and drill the holes.
 
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zfaylor said:
Am I remembering right that this was a power unit for irrigation? If so it makes sense. All of the power units we had out at my previous job got worked to hell and service was a no no I guess since all of the oil was cooked in them. Granted most of ours were 5.9 and 6.7 engines. One 5.9 got hot enough to melt the boot off of the turbo outlet....

Pull the filter and cut it open. If there isn't a ton of material then check the rods and mains. If all is well forget it an run the thing on a stand. If it runs well install and forget it. For what you want to do I wouldn't worry too heavily unless it is trashed. You may be able to clean up the slop on the crank end play and never worry about it again.
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I'll try to do that tonight. I just have no concept of the internals and don't know what sets the end play and keeps the crank from moving laterally. If I can get it on the stand I can spin it and take the pan off. There is a tad of oil around the bottom corners of the rear main seal. Probably not enough to constitute replacing it....but who knows. I sure as hell don't.

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The seller said he had it running on a stand and said he had a video of it on his "other phone." I have requested said video and planted the seed that if this SOB is trashed I'm not going to be too happy. ;)
 
Seen several 8.3's with junk cranks/thrusts. Pull the pan and see what's going on.
 
Replace the rear main while it is out. Nothing worse than fixing it 6 months later in frame.
 
Kinda what I was thinking. That is why I wanted to look at it. I'm going to have to open this bastage up and make a list of things to order from Jeff. At a minimum front cover seal, front crank seal, rear main seal, and head gasket if the valves are shot. Probably end up needing main bearings, rod bearings, thrust bearing, and a dozen other little odds-n-ends. The full rebuild kits are around a grand but I don't anticipate needing pistons and sleeves and all that other crap. My plug-n-play mood was obviously a beer induced coma. Or find a local shop to go through it and pick it up in a week or three. Not like I don't have three dozen other projects at home to work on.
 
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I'm not familiar with an 8.3, but if it's anything like a 5.9, they're extremely resilient. Take the pan off, slide some new bearings in, and take off down the road.
 
Sounds like a great plan. I might know a lot about electron's and a bunch of other junk that isn't important to anyone else....but looking at the inside of and engine and knowing not much more than what each part is called it about my extent. Glad you all are here. :D
 
Also, if it's not some kooky design, the thrust should be part of one of the main bearings. If it hasn't eaten too bad, the play should just be from the bearing loss.
 
Hopefully bearing loss and not crank loss. I'm guessing the crank material is designed as a harder alloy so that the bearing wears first. But then again, I know nothing. LOL
 
I would say thrust issues in a power unit should be pretty uncommon...I don't see any thrust issues on a combine engine running a belt.

Drop the pan to look, but don't worry until you see what you have.
Chris
 
How about from pumps on irrigation units? I know the ones we use in the oilfield take a whipping.
 
Jory, once you get the parts together, let me know, I can come help with it to repay your favors over the last few years. Just have to acquire torque specs for everything if you don't have a service manual.
 
TheBigNasty said:
How about from pumps on irrigation units? I know the ones we use in the oilfield take a whipping.
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The majority of the ones we had out ran a gen and pumped water. A guy was running 3 pivots entirely off of one of the 6.7 ve powered 12 valve units from FPT. That thing got the chit kicked out of it.


As mentioned usually power units and ag stuff doesn't cycle as often so thrusts usually hold up though.
 
madmikeismad said:
Jory, once you get the parts together, let me know, I can come help with it to repay your favors over the last few years. Just have to acquire torque specs for everything if you don't have a service manual.
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Got manuals. Got torques. Got knowledge....just don't have the experience.

I have a feeling the thrust/main bearing will be in the pan. LOL

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Pulling the crank kinda eff's up my plan to mount on an engine stand using the flywheel housing. :bang
 

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