95' Junker Drag Truck

I would try and plumb it into the exhaust side first just in case something happens, I know the ricer guys used to run NOS to get the big chargers lit that way
 
You guys think a little fogger nozzle blowing a small wiff of oxygen onto the filter is going to burn a hole in a piston? If i did this, highly unlikely, it would be a small wiff of oxygen to help with spoolup. Just enough oxygen to make the incoming air have the same oxygen content as air at sea level.


It would take a ton of courage/disregard for safety to inject oxygen post turbo in large quantities like a nitrous oxide kit.
 
I did a little port work on the GT4294. Don't know if it will help spool up, but it was fun trying to make it work better.


Before pictures:
 

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I used the electric die grinder with carbide flush cut bit designed for laminate trimming to take out the larger portions of aluminum. It actually worked quite well.

I then used a black rubber-like polishing bit in my dremel tool along with some green polish compound that came with the $15 Harbor Freight rotary tool kit to smooth out the carbide cutter grooves.


It doesn't look great but it's good enough for the Junker Drag Truck, maybe you could call it a homemade race cover.
 

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Took the truck for a test drive last night with the ported turbo. Spool-up marginally improved at best. The difference between unported and home ported is the same as the difference between running with an air filter vs running filterless. Such a small difference that 90% of drivers would not notice the difference.

So to sum it up: Pre ported without a filter spools the same as post ported with a huge AFE filter, probably not worth the hassle for most people, simply a fun project for those who like to tinker.

I also re-verified the stall on my current torque converter, it's pretty tight at 1600 rpm. At the track it was stalling closer to 1700 rpm, this converter must loosen up a bit when the tranny fluid heats up and thins out.
 
did you smooth out the turbine housing?

with such an aggressive cutter you may be able to work up a better transition on the t3/t6 adapter setup
 
U got it wright thats how I do it but wish it had improved the spool more dunno if a smooth finish from a lath would have helped or not if I could swing that I would I can do HX55s witch are close in size
 
Big Blue24, how about using compressed air to spool up your turbo? Seems like you could carry a 5 or 10 gallon air tank with you, and plumb a nozzle with a solenoid valve into the exhaust turbine. It seems like a decent duration of 90 or 100 psi air through a small nozzle would turn the turbine mighty fast. What do you think?
 
I was about to suggest the compressed air in the exaust. cheap and easy. I saw an article in diesel power of a semi that had like 6 turbos on it something crazy. It was built i think in like the 70's or something a long time ago. But anyway it used compressed air into the exhaust to help spool the turbos. I think it was triple compounded for 3 cylinders each. It said it was never tuned properly so it never did anything impressive just looked cool. and obviously they didn't know enough about turbo's to size them correctly. But i think it would work and it would be easy. Im pretty sure the semi just used the stock compressor and tank which would make it easier. But just for drag racing a portable tank would probably do it.
 
Blue, you seem like a fairly intelligent person so dont think im trying to undermine you, but as far as the turbo not lightin, injectors are too small. another thing you might try is working your port magic(as seen above) on the rest of the motor. Very awesome thread and good luck
 
The next upgrade is going to be a looser torque converter. I want to be able to spool-up at the line and get a real world horsepower comparison between HX35 at 55 lbs per minute to GT4294 at 88 lbs per minute with the same fueling setup. The next two track days are Wednesday Sept 8th and Friday Sept 10th so hopefully the mailman delivers early enough that I can get the converter installed before then. After collecting a few time slips for comparison, I'm going to turn up the wick with the 5x.018 injectors and play around with my recently acquired full cut delivery valves.


As far as bigger injectors helping spool-up, I'll have to test it to know for sure. My thinking right now is that the larger injectors will not help spool-up. The current setup has more than enough fuel to slow down spool-up if I lay into the accelerator pedal too hard in low or zero boost situations.


And just a little bit of feedback regarding transmission fluid. I drained the pan on the tranny of the tractor fluid mix and replaced it with regular cheap Walmart Dexron III ATF. When the Junker's tranny is completely empty, it holds 16 qts, just draining the pan took 9 quarts fill up. The previous mixture was 13 quarts Hydraulic Tractor Fluid + 3 quarts Type F ATF for color.

Don't worry about the math but basically the tranny is now running a mixture of 10.3 qts ATF + 5.7 quarts John Deere Hy-Gard Tractor Fluid. With this new fluid mixture, the torque converter stalls 50 rpm higher than the old mixture. So it looks like the most you can lower your stall with Hydraulic Tractor fluid is about 100 rpm if you run 100% tractor fluid.

I personally don't run the tractor fluid to lower the stall, I'm after the better heat durability, better lubrication for the large moving parts like planetaries, and most important higher friction to help my clutch packs have more bite.

For the average Joe looking to lower the stall speed a little, Hydraulic Tractor Fluid seems to be an option in warmer climates.
 
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Big Blue24 said:
So it looks like the most you can lower your stall with Hydraulic Tractor fluid is about 100 rpm if you run 100% tractor fluid.
Click to expand...

That's all the difference I've ever seen out of it. Were you running the thick or thin HyGard?

Big Blue24 said:
I personally don't run the tractor fluid to lower the stall, I'm after the better heat durability, better lubrication for the large moving parts like planetaries, and most important higher friction to help my clutch packs have more bite.
Click to expand...

Your reasons cited are the only real reasons anyone should consider running it. There's just not enough difference in stall to make it worth experimenting with in an attempt to change converter characteristics if you ask me.
 
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