I think the main benefit of using a 220V welder is that you won't reheat all of the gears in the process of welding them together. It seems like welding up the rear end with too small a welder will work, it just reduces the strength and hardness of all the gears (they will be reheat treated). I've heard of folks using heat sinks and high power welders when working with hardened steels because they are trying to minimize the amount of heat that the entire part sees: the goal is to not undo the prior heat treating.
95' Junker Drag Truck
- Thread starter Big Blue24
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I think the main benefit of using a 220V welder is that you won't reheat all of the gears in the process of welding them together. It seems like welding up the rear end with too small a welder will work, it just reduces the strength and hardness of all the gears (they will be reheat treated). I've heard of folks using heat sinks and high power welders when working with hardened steels because they are trying to minimize the amount of heat that the entire part sees: the goal is to not undo the prior heat treating.
Big Blue24
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I finished building my t3-t6 adapter and the Detroit 60 series(GT4294) is bolted up. I am still working on plumbing for the new turbo and i need to order a few parts tomorrow.
The track opens up Aug 22nd, we don't race in July or early August here in Las Vegas, something about 115*F. It'll probably only be 110*F on Aug 22nd so I ought to be a good test for this new turbo.
I'm debating whether or not to install the 5x.018 injectors. I really want to see MPH difference from adding this turbo compared to stock HX35.
Shortly I'll be adding/testing a set of full cut delivery valves. I really like these DDP magic delivery valves but I'm curious about how much HP can be added with full cuts vs 024's.
The track opens up Aug 22nd, we don't race in July or early August here in Las Vegas, something about 115*F. It'll probably only be 110*F on Aug 22nd so I ought to be a good test for this new turbo.
I'm debating whether or not to install the 5x.018 injectors. I really want to see MPH difference from adding this turbo compared to stock HX35.
Shortly I'll be adding/testing a set of full cut delivery valves. I really like these DDP magic delivery valves but I'm curious about how much HP can be added with full cuts vs 024's.
Big Blue24
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The new Detroit 60 Series Turbo - GT4294 is mounted and I was able to take it for a test drive tonight. The huge 1.28 AR exhaust housing is DIFFICULT to spool.
For now, I'm going to double check my "homemade" T3-T6 adapter for exhaust leaks because even small leaks pre-turbo make a huge difference on spool-up.
Hopefully the turbo will get a little looser as it gets a few miles as it's brand new and pretty tight.
I was hot and humid tonight during my testing but the best I could do as far as spool up was 2400 RPM in second gear riding the brakes. If I floor it from a dead stop, it will slowly go through 1st, 2nd, and 90% of 3rd gear before it spools up. Right as it gets to 15 psi in 3rd, it will shift to OD.
In a mock race/ launch on a closed course, by manually holding the tranny to 2nd gear, I can get it to chug off the line through 1st gear and then around 2600 rpm in 2nd gear it will spool up and take off. By manually shifting to third I can let 2nd run out to 3500 rpm and there is zero lag when it hits 3rd and then OD.
From a power perspective, this turbo pulls much harder from 50 to 100 MPH than any of the other setup's I've tried. It's just so sluggish on the bottom end that I wonder if it will run a slower ET but similar 100+ MPH trap speed.
This Friday the track reopens so I'll be out there testing the new setup for sure.
For now, I'm going to double check my "homemade" T3-T6 adapter for exhaust leaks because even small leaks pre-turbo make a huge difference on spool-up.
Hopefully the turbo will get a little looser as it gets a few miles as it's brand new and pretty tight.
I was hot and humid tonight during my testing but the best I could do as far as spool up was 2400 RPM in second gear riding the brakes. If I floor it from a dead stop, it will slowly go through 1st, 2nd, and 90% of 3rd gear before it spools up. Right as it gets to 15 psi in 3rd, it will shift to OD.
In a mock race/ launch on a closed course, by manually holding the tranny to 2nd gear, I can get it to chug off the line through 1st gear and then around 2600 rpm in 2nd gear it will spool up and take off. By manually shifting to third I can let 2nd run out to 3500 rpm and there is zero lag when it hits 3rd and then OD.
From a power perspective, this turbo pulls much harder from 50 to 100 MPH than any of the other setup's I've tried. It's just so sluggish on the bottom end that I wonder if it will run a slower ET but similar 100+ MPH trap speed.
This Friday the track reopens so I'll be out there testing the new setup for sure.
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Big Blue24
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To go along with the new smokey turbo, I got a new exhaust system installed. 80% of the exhaust system came from Home Depot HVAC department. Check out the cool 6" stove pipe stack! For $7.95, I figured I couldn't go wrong. And at 6", it should have low enough exhaust pressure that it'll last a little while.
I used 5" duct under the truck but figured at 5", there might be enough exhaust pressure to burst single wall 24 gauge pipe so made my own "double-wall" pipe using a second piece of 5" duct. All said and done, it took twice as long as a normal exhaust system install.
I used 5" duct under the truck but figured at 5", there might be enough exhaust pressure to burst single wall 24 gauge pipe so made my own "double-wall" pipe using a second piece of 5" duct. All said and done, it took twice as long as a normal exhaust system install.
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Big Blue24
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As cheap as I'd like to be with this Drag Truck project, I couldn't stand driving 100 MPH at the track with 3-4 year old ratty mismatched front tires. I dropped $200 and bought a new set of front tires: General Grabber UHP 225/70/16 with a nice (H) 130 MPH speed rating. Over the previous 245/75/16's, the new tires dropped the truck 1.5" at the front bumper where I measure before and after.
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SSpeeDEMONSS
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looks good. whats it going to take to spool it, more fuel?
Garrett
Garrett
Big Blue24
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It will push through the brakes if I go easy on the brake pedal. If I mash the brake pedal really hard, it won't push through the brakes.
Big Blue24
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No, everything is identical on the truck except for new turbo, new stove stack, and new front tires.
The purpose of leaving the injectors, DV's, and AFC settings the same was to measure HP difference between stock turbo and large single. I don't think my testing is going to work with the current spooling issues.
I'm going to play around with it some more tonight but I'm definitely going to run the 215 injectors this Friday night at the track.
I could probably get the truck to run decent if I manually shifted it 1st, 2nd, 3rd, OD. The problem is, I didn't build the low/reverse servo and rear band strong enough to take the abuse and I fear a transmission failure will occur if I try to spool-up and launch in manual low.
I'll have a few hours of free time tonight so I'm going to unbolt the adapter and weld the two middle sections together to ensure there are no minor exhaust leaks pre-turbo. I'm also going to test the cold pipe, CAC, and intake plate/horn for boost leaks.
The purpose of leaving the injectors, DV's, and AFC settings the same was to measure HP difference between stock turbo and large single. I don't think my testing is going to work with the current spooling issues.
I'm going to play around with it some more tonight but I'm definitely going to run the 215 injectors this Friday night at the track.
I could probably get the truck to run decent if I manually shifted it 1st, 2nd, 3rd, OD. The problem is, I didn't build the low/reverse servo and rear band strong enough to take the abuse and I fear a transmission failure will occur if I try to spool-up and launch in manual low.
I'll have a few hours of free time tonight so I'm going to unbolt the adapter and weld the two middle sections together to ensure there are no minor exhaust leaks pre-turbo. I'm also going to test the cold pipe, CAC, and intake plate/horn for boost leaks.
dvst8r
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How much boost will it make with it mashed, spooling at the line?
Big Blue24
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Big Blue24
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I really think the 1.28 AR exhaust housing combined with a density altitude of 4800' yesterday made this a non-spooling setup.
Big Blue24
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What's wrong with the exhaust setup? It has real 5" exhaust components till it reaches the middle of the tranny, then it transitions into homemade junk.
I would just run a straight dump pipe to the middle of the tranny but I think it would smoke out the timing lights for sure.
Hurley
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is that Hi-temp RTV at the outlet elbow? I understand this is a budget minded ride, but it's a little too much for my taste
97Dodgeram
diesel head
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i'v got 51 inches of 5 inch pipe kicking around i'd donate......just sayin haha:Cheer:
Big Blue24
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That is RTV, however, it's purpose is simply to seal a few suspected small pin holes in the welding that looked like a potential leak. You see, it's difficult to weld 5" aluminized flex to 5" hard pipe. There is galvanized coating on all surfaces of the flex as if it was hot dipped so there's a ton of impurities that burn out of it when you weld it. I made two small passes on low heat and got the connection structurally sound but had a few suspect areas that might make an annoying leak so I ran a bead of RTV over the whole joint.
Now under the truck, there is another hard pipe to flex pipe transition that needs to be serviceable for when the downpipe is removed, that joint has a proper 5" flat band clamp.
One last thing to remember, this turbo is not going to be a permanent addition to the truck. The price was right and I love to test so I did a semi-permanent rig job to test this turbo. Ultimately, this truck is getting HE351cw(60mm) over HT4B(83mm) twin compounded turbos.