95' Junker Drag Truck

[Big Blue24]

Who did you get that price from? I'm looking in the summit racing cataolg and they list mini spools for a GM 12 bolt for $92. I wouldn't think one for a Dana 70 or 80 would be much more, but I've been wrong before!!

None of the big name axle/drivetrain shops carry or make dana 70 spools or mini spools. You can buy the Lock Right Power Trax lockers for $425. The cheapest true heavy duty locker after welding is a detroit locker and they run about $605.

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-129843-dana-70-detroit-locker.html

 

[Lower]

My only experiece with this has been with a 14bolt full floater rear end.
It helps if you got a case of beer when you start to weld the gears up.
Best way is like this.
Clean the oil off the spider gears with whatever is available, and get all excess oil out of the rear end.
Drink a beer or two while the cleaner is drying out.
Tack weld a spot on every spider to keep them centered.
Drink a beer.
Put a couple more tack welds on.
Drink a beer.
Put a couple more tack welds on.
Drink a beer.
Now is where it gets tricky, you are trying to weld it so it wont break so your trying not to get it to hot in the process to not fatique the metal.
Now that you have tack welded all the gears to each other take time to admire your work as it is going good.
Drink a beer.
Now as you drink your beer and the welds are cooling off you hear a faint *tink* noise as your nice tacks have just cracked as they were cooling off.
Drink a beer.
Turn the welder on kill and tack the spiders in there good.
Drink a beer.
Now that it is 3am and you can't see straight, either because your so pissed off or cause you have been drinking like a fish, weld the holy hell out of them until the whole assembly is red hot.
Drink the last beer and go to bed.
Place skinny pedal on floor at every opportunity you get just to make sure they are still welded.

 

[Mr.T]

My only experiece with this has been with a 14bolt full floater rear end.
It helps if you got a case of beer when you start to weld the gears up.
Best way is like this.
Clean the oil off the spider gears with whatever is available, and get all excess oil out of the rear end.
Drink a beer or two while the cleaner is drying out.
Tack weld a spot on every spider to keep them centered.
Drink a beer.
Put a couple more tack welds on.
Drink a beer.
Put a couple more tack welds on.
Drink a beer.
Now is where it gets tricky, you are trying to weld it so it wont break so your trying not to get it to hot in the process to not fatique the metal.
Now that you have tack welded all the gears to each other take time to admire your work as it is going good.
Drink a beer.
Now as you drink your beer and the welds are cooling off you hear a faint *tink* noise as your nice tacks have just cracked as they were cooling off.
Drink a beer.
Turn the welder on kill and tack the spiders in there good.
Drink a beer.
Now that it is 3am and you can't see straight, either because your so pissed off or cause you have been drinking like a fish, weld the holy hell out of them until the whole assembly is red hot.
Drink the last beer and go to bed.
Place skinny pedal on floor at every opportunity you get just to make sure they are still welded.

works like a charm :hehe: :hehe::thankyou2:

 

[BlackSkyRacing]

Man, that sucks that your truck keeps eating parts... I had a Corporate 14bolt that was welded that I could have loaned you, but it ate the pinion bearings Though the 4.10 gears wouldn't have been ideal for drag racing, I can say I hated them on my truck. It weighs around 5600 when I take all my tools out and it seemed like the trans couldn't shift quick enough to keep my truck from defueling.

It's too bad you already picked up those 215s, I should have checked in on this thread sooner; I could have put you together a set of 5x.014s for less than $300 shipped. They run pretty darn good with the VGT; my 94 laid down 422/903 with a set of said 5x.014s, shimmed governor springs, #100 plate FF, AFC mods, a $20 fleabay FP regulator set at 42psi, and a Holley Blue... That most certainly would have gotten you into the 13s, and possibly the really high 12's with your 4k springs and rack plug because I think that's all I need to break 500+ rwhp :rockwoot:

 

[Cummins Driver]

Dana 70's suck anyways. I have killed 2 Dana 70's just on my daily driver. Stress cracks were all over the pinion and the ring gears were missing teeth too.

I have 2 dana 70 limited slip units in good shape though. They always worked really well and would be great for daily driving and drag racing. Id sell you one, but It may cost a decent bit to ship.

Eric

 

[Joker12valve]

The price i got was from a place that builds axles etc. for some reason every part for the 70 80 are stupied pricey, and are hard to find (mini spools) if any one has them cheaper for a 70 i would like to know, i still need one.

 

[Big Blue24]

I finally got the rear differential put back together. I decided to try my luck welding the side gear together with the remaining spider gear fragments. It's not pretty but it definitely has a lot more penetration and shear mass of melted flux core wire.

I read about people filling the carrier with lead, so I thought, why not fill it up with steel? After burning through (1) 2-lb spool, I decided it looked good enough. I also put a 5/8" thick rectangular piece of steel in both openings that I scavenged from the old leaf springs.

I know it's not pretty but it does have a few good beads down at the root of the side gears and rectangular plate. After that, i went hog wide and started filling it up. LOL

The track is closed till August so no more 1/4 mile testing for a few weeks.

 

[mondtster]

Did you just weld the spiders to each other or did you weld them to the case too?

 

[Hurley]

you need a 220V stick welder....

 

[DIESELGUY84]

You might be a redneck if... LOL Like Hurley said, a stick welder would have been the hot ticket, I'll bet 2lbs of wire will hold up.

 

[RacinDuallie]

I stumbled into a real sweel deal on a Fab9 rear for my lil 96 2wd "once was a junker":hehe:


:doh: Are you using a welder or a dang propane torch:hehe:

 

[SSpeeDEMONSS]

wow, i didnt have to put anywhere near as much weld on my 10.5 in my ford or the rearend, whichever it is, on the blazer i did for a friend. maybe it was a 12 bolt. maybe a 14. but both are fine. actually broke an axle in the ford and the rear is fine. guess thats 220 for ya.

Garrett

 

[Trimmy1]

Nice progress its inspiring me to start looking for a 2wd truck

 

[Big Blue24]

The spiders are welded to the case on the large opening side, the side gears are tucked up into the carrier too tight to really put a bead in there. On the smaller opening side, i didn't have enough room to get the spiders welded to the carrier so they are just welded to the 5/8" thick central rectangle.

I was able to get much more penetration and heat this time around. I know the pictures make it look horrible but there actually are some good beads down below the rats nest puddle welds on top. I beveled the 5/8" thick rectangle and used my die grinder to make it fit snugly into both the side gears and spider gears. As long as a whole side gear doesn't break, I feel much better about the weld job this time around. I reinforced the side gears with a good bead down at the root of each tooth to help create an even interface for the 5/8" thick rectangle so I could get a consistent weld bead.

Last time I welded the whole thing and not once did the 20 amp dedicated circuit flip or did the machine temp-override kick on. This time around, I adjusted stick-out by grinding back the feed nozzle shroud, I also spent ten minutes making a solid ground clamp location with the addition of a C-clamp to help pinch the ground clamp tighter.

This time around I could actually see the gears and rectangle piece melting together and I was able to maintain a good puddle. I also tipped the carrier so I could weld slightly uphill, this helped keep the arc at the leading edge of the puddle and definitely helped with penetration.

I actually had a breaker issues and flipped the 20a circuit probably 10 times during the weld project so I know the minor changes really helped increase the amperage, heat, and penetration. I also kicked temp-override 3-4 times and had to let the machine cool down, I've burned through 4-5 lbs of wire since i've owned this machine and never once has the breaker flipped or the temp-override tripped.

I am at best an amateur, green, inexperienced welder but I can assure you, this time it got a much, much better weld down deep where it counts.

 

[npe3484]

Hope it holds up for you this time. I'm sure you know this, but make sure the whole carrier assembly is free of slag and weld boogers. Bearings aren't very fond of steel debris.

What's up next for the Junker?

 

[Big Blue24]

The next mod for the Junker Drag Truck is a new single turbo that I picked up off of ebay pretty cheap.


Detroit 60 Series Turbo: PN 23528065

 

[97Dodgeram]

fancy! isn't that similar to a k31?

 

[Big Blue24]

fancy! isn't that similar to a k31?

I don't know much about K31's so I have no idea how similar this one is. I believe the compressor and turbine wheels are similar in size and I know the K31 is wastegated but other than that, no idea.

This 60 series turbo has the compressor housing AR and compressor wheel dimensions as the GT4294. I'm going to assume that it's the same turbo and therefore it's compressor map looks like this:

 

[ttcfan4476]

are you going to put that under the cw for a set of twins?

 

[Big Blue24]

Nope, I'm going to run this turbo as a single. 85lbs per minute is barely enough air for 700 HP.