95' Junker Drag Truck

LOL were on the same trac I bought the knock off too , and a glow-shift FP gauge
 
TTR 21 said:
Awesome man! Glad to see your getting it dialed in and getting some good seat of the pants hp numbers. I might have ordered a few things for the Budget Beater the other day to keep up with your progress! Next year should be very entertaining for the both of us!
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Next year??? Track doesn't close till mid December.

I live in Las Vegas, we don't shut down for winter! In fact, the only reason I can stand 3 months of hellish 110-118*F heat is the beautiful weather from mid October to mid April.

I believe last winter I had to scrape my windows once in December and once more in late January. In Northeastern Washington where I grew up, first frost always hit in September and daily scraper mid Oct through mid March.


Back to the Junker.

I recently acquired a set of Full-Cut delivery valves. Those will be one of the next back-to-back upgrade tests.

Once I feel confident that I'm burning or using all of my available fuel, I will experiment with racking the barrels.
 
Big Blue24 said:
Next year??? Track doesn't close till mid December.

I live in Las Vegas, we don't shut down for winter! In fact, the only reason I can stand 3 months of hellish 110-118*F heat is the beautiful weather from mid October to mid April.

I believe last winter I had to scrape my windows once in December and once more in late January. In Northeastern Washington where I grew up, first frost always hit in September and daily scraper mid Oct through mid March.


Back to the Junker.

I recently acquired a set of Full-Cut delivery valves. Those will be one of the next back-to-back upgrade tests.

Once I feel confident that I'm burning or using all of my available fuel, I will experiment with racking the barrels.
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Well $hit man I might have to make a trip down there this year at some point and race you heads up. Stock trans is only thing holding me back from putting all my recently purchased go fast parts on.

Interested to see how racking the barrels without a flow bench does for ya. Hopefully you can dial it in somewhat close and not completely screw it up and have to go looking for a bench to fix it.
 
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I might as well chime in with my junker drag truck.....
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TTR 21 said:
Well $hit man I might have to make a trip down there this year at some point and race you heads up. Stock trans is only thing holding me back from putting all my recently purchased go fast parts on.

Interested to see how racking the barrels without a flow bench does for ya. Hopefully you can dial it in somewhat close and not completely screw it up and have to go looking for a bench to fix it.
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Turned the barrels today! - Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together

I did it a while back and still havent benched the pump. 10,000 miles later and I'm pushing 450hp and getting 21mpg consistently.

Ive acquired the nick name "barrel turner" from some members on here. :hehe:
 
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Few pictures of my modified fuel supply setup. $15 worth of Checker Auto 3/8" fuel line, $25 at Home Depot for nylon tee, brass fittings, check valve, and hose clamps. $58 for brand new ProComp Black 140 GPH Methanol rated fuel pump with stock 12 psi internal regulator spring.

For around $100 dollars, I built a fuel lift pump/pusher pump system that so far is maintaining 40 psi of fuel pressure. The cool thing about the design is I can run with or without the electrical fuel pump so if I dies, I'm never stranded, just limited to about 450 HP.

Fuel003.jpg

For a pick-up tube I used a 1/2" steel threaded 90 elbow with a brass (1/2" to 3/8" bushing) to (3/8" short nipple) to (1/2" to 3/8" bushing) to 1/2" copper pipe down to the bottom of the tank. The bushings and nipple create a way to clamp the setup to the tank. Basically one bushing is outside the tank and one bushing is inside the tank. The bushings are both threaded onto the 3/8" short nipple and are tightened down to where they lock each other to the tank wall and create an air tight seal.
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The ProComp Black came with the blue anodized fittings so saved a few bucks not having to buy brass 3/8" NPT hose barbs.
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The nylon tee is about 12" from the stock lift pump. The electric fuel pump side has the straight shot through the tee, the factory fuel line feed side makes a 90* turn at the tee.
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This brass check valve allows fuel to be sucked through it when the electric fuel pump is not running. When the electric fuel pump is switched on, it pressures up the tee and feeds the factory lift pump and feeds back down the factory line till it reaches the checkvalve which then closes.
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In the last picture, the factory fuel bowl, prescreen, and heater have been deleted and the 3/8" line has straight shot into the stock factory lift pump. In order to maintain proper pump to camshaft spacing, the aluminum bracket the holds the fuel bowl/prescreen was cut so that only the needed spacer portion was reinstalled.
 
looks nice. I like how insted of dropping the tank you just cut the bed lol, but I had my factory lift pump keeping up with Iis dragon flows, ddp's 024's a o plate, mack rack plug, on a 180 pump...was your factory lift pump weak?
 
do you have a fuel pressure gauge installed? if not how do you really know my truck runs low on fuel in the upper rpms but it wont sputter or pop. And Blue i cant decide if i want to do something like you did or just poney up and get an air dog.
 
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9712valve said:
looks nice. I like how insted of dropping the tank you just cut the bed lol, but I had my factory lift pump keeping up with Iis dragon flows, ddp's 024's a o plate, mack rack plug, on a 180 pump...was your factory lift pump weak?
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180's will run good at lower pressure than a 160 will
 
9712valve said:
looks nice. I like how insted of dropping the tank you just cut the bed lol, but I had my factory lift pump keeping up with Iis dragon flows, ddp's 024's a o plate, mack rack plug, on a 180 pump...was your factory lift pump weak?
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All recent testing is with a brand new Cummins lift pump. I've never tested the effects of pressure drop on a 180 pump but this 160 pump on the Junker Drag Truck runs a lot better with high lift pump pressure.

Dropping the tank is for "pretty" trucks. There's a 90% chance that hole in the bed will never be patched. The bed is still pretty strong, even with the missing brace so I see no reason to waste time patching up the bed.
 
Big Blue24 said:
All recent testing is with a brand new Cummins lift pump. I've never tested the effects of pressure drop on a 180 pump but this 160 pump on the Junker Drag Truck runs a lot better with high lift pump pressure.

Dropping the tank is for "pretty" trucks. There's a 90% chance that hole in the bed will never be patched. The bed is still pretty strong, even with the missing brace so I see no reason to waste time patching up the bed.
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yah, i never patched the hole from my stack, i just put a bed mat over it.
 
i'm still rockin the hole from my stack as well......i find it get's rid of beer cans
 
yall are great. I've been tellin the boys over at CF that the ppump likes higher pressure~45psi, but they just wont have it. Someone posted a link to torkteks website where Rob states, "31psi is perfect for maximum Ppump pressure", so now they all think that 31psi is exactly where all the pullers and racers are runnin their pumps.
 
Blue, this is one of the best reads i've had. Thanks for taking the time to share great info! ...my 180 pump starts to lose power < 10psi.
 
honestcharlie56 said:
yall are great. I've been tellin the boys over at CF that the ppump likes higher pressure~45psi, but they just wont have it. Someone posted a link to torkteks website where Rob states, "31psi is perfect for maximum Ppump pressure", so now they all think that 31psi is exactly where all the pullers and racers are runnin their pumps.
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i saw that thread they wont take anything we or you say lol so the new hype is 31psi for your ppump and youll see 1000 hp!!!:hehe::doh:
 
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