95' Junker Drag Truck

Soooo the oil pickup doesn't run through the oil pump or have a oil bypass when oil pressure is to high... You have fun with that
 
Signature600 said:
Pretty sure the oil is filtered after it goes through the engine though;)

Chris
Click to expand...

Well if that is the case, then not all of the oil gets filtered at all. Oil that is in the top of the head drains and fall straight back into the pan once it gets past all the other parts in the bottom end. Same goes for all of the oil being pushed out between all of the bearings and the oil running off the cylinder walls. It all goes straight back to the pan once it has gone through the engine, not the filter. If that was the case then the oil filter would be useless. The oil is filtered before it goes through the engine, not after. Although, it does go through the oil pump first before the filter. In this case the oil pump can be damaged by the finer shavings, but the failure rate seems to be very very slim. I am actually surprised that the oil pump in any engine lasts as long as they do because they see all of the trash washed out of the engine first before the filter or any other part of the engine.
 
Been a long time since I looked at a flow diagram for the B series oiling system...thanks for correcting me!!!

I've seen a few oil pumps that were very scuffed up, and still hold pressure fine! They are pretty stout!
Chris
 
You get your beast up and running yet? I've already had my 351ve/HT60 twins on the road for a week and I started almost 3 weeks after you :P Though I had good motivation and a whole week off of work (fluke in my schedule).
 
Last edited:
BlackSkyRacing said:
You get your beast up and running yet? I've already had my 351ve/HT60 twins on the road for a week and I started almost 3 weeks after you :P Though I had good motivation and a whole week off of work (fluke in my schedule).
Click to expand...


It's not quite up and running.

I did get the heat exchanger/transmission cooler relocated.
 
I decided to reuse the stock transmission heat exchanger instead of buying a separate $200 fan/cooler setup.

I will say this, the stock exchanger is really heavy and it probably weighs close to 25 lbs dry.

I relocated the cooler to the driver's side of the transmission and it's mounted on the transmission cross member brace and the frame rail.

The existing lines were a combination of stock lines and one custom semi-truck air-brake line that came with the truck, I reused the existing air-brake line with no modifications. For the factory line, I installed a 2" long 3/8" steel nipple, 3/8"x1/2" 90* reducer steel elbow, and a brass 1/2" to 1/2" barbed fitting.

HeatExchanger010.jpg


HeatExchanger011.jpg


I then ran a 2' long section of 1/2" transmission line from the barbed fitting over to the transmission outlet line location. In this picture, it's the blue line.

HeatExchanger012.jpg


I also cut and modified the existing mounting bracket and drilled two holes through the transmission cross member for mounting the exchanger setup.

HeatExchanger013.jpg


HeatExchanger014.jpg


I used a few zip-ties to keep the lines together as they cross over the brace so they don't rub through.

HeatExchanger015.jpg


The outlet from the heat exchanger is still using the custom air-brake semi truck line. To mount the exchanger on the frame rail, I welded a section of angle-steel onto the exchanger bracket and bolted it to the bottom of the frame rail.

HeatExchanger016.jpg


HeatExchanger017.jpg


I cut the stock outlet line from the transmission, installed a 1/2" compression coupling to 1/2" threaded, and then installed a 1/2" threaded to 1/2" barbed fitting. I used the stock transmission temperature port and installed my own sending unit using a brass 3/8" to 1/8" bushing.

HeatExchanger004.jpg


HeatExchanger003.jpg


HeatExchanger005.jpg


I then extended the factory 5/8" coolant hoses to the heat exchanger, it took 14' to make the loop.

HeatExchanger006.jpg


And finally I deleted and reworked the factory heater lines so it's a straight loop from the head to the pump inlet. I'll have to test drive a little to see how well the truck warms up, I might tie into the top radiator hose instead of the pump return.

HeatExchanger007.jpg
 
Big Blue24 said:
I cut the stock outlet line from the transmission, installed a 1/2" compression coupling to 1/2" threaded, and then installed a 1/2" threaded to 1/2" barbed fitting. I used the stock transmission temperature port and installed my own sending unit using a brass 3/8" to 1/8" bushing.

HeatExchanger004.jpg


HeatExchanger003.jpg


HeatExchanger005.jpg
Click to expand...

I really like what you did there. Might have to steal that idea instead of my massive combination of tees, bushings, and adapters. LOL

Big Blue24 said:
I also drilled a few holes through the factory thermostat.
Thermostat3.jpg


Thermostat2.jpg


Thermostat1.jpg
Click to expand...

What's the purpose in that? Track only, I assume?
 
RJM06590 said:
It helps with pressure spikes.
Click to expand...

That was my thinking anyway, we'll see if it keeps the pressure down because I'm not sure how well my JB-Weld reinforced freeze plugs will hold at higher RPM. It may be a budget junker, but the last thing I want to do is lose a freeze plug, lose control, and hit the wall; could be really bad if it happened at 100+ MPH!
 
Haha I think the JB is better then nothing. I don't remember, did you install a bypass of some sort in the back of the head?
 
YOUNG GUNS15 said:
Blue, are you running the stock pan on your transmission?
Click to expand...

No, I wanted a drain plug and found a "double deep" 727 pan new on ebay for $30. The pan is slightly deeper than the stock pan but the most important feature for me is the drain plug.
 
RJM06590 said:
Haha I think the JB is better then nothing. I don't remember, did you install a bypass of some sort in the back of the head?
Click to expand...

No bypass, if I could find an easy threaded 1/2" plug somewhere near the back of the head, I would rig up some sort of bypass.
 
Big Blue24 said:
No, I wanted a drain plug and found a "double deep" 727 pan new on ebay for $30. The pan is slightly deeper than the stock pan but the most important feature for me is the drain plug.
Click to expand...

Is it chrome with "727" stamped on it? I've got the same one I think... :hehe:
 
Big Blue24 said:
No bypass, if I could find an easy threaded 1/2" plug somewhere near the back of the head, I would rig up some sort of bypass.
Click to expand...

what if you used the factory coolant temp sensor port, and relocate the temp sensor somewhere else? come to think of it though that sensor has some big threads on it.......
 
Good choice on keeping the heat exchanger. Running just the Derale cooler with fan on my DD, my temps will still hit 190* F in stop and go traffic with around 50* ambient temp. I'll either plumb my heat exchanger back into the system or buy a heat sink style cooler.

Where did you source your turbo oil drain line from? I must have missed it if you mentioned it earlier.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top