honestcharlie56
Head Dumbass
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ima gunna have to find that ebay pan.......
95' Junker Drag Truck
- Thread starter Big Blue24
- Start date
do you think drilling the t-stat would be a good idea on a built up daily driver? when you said you drilled/tapped it what exactly did you tap and why?
i think that this is the pan...
Mopar Chrysler 727 Trans Transmission Pan Chrome Finned - eBay (item 350439787663 end time Feb-21-11 00:35:28 PST)
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Big Blue24
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I checked my local hose supply store and Source Automotive's pricing was a little better since I had to order a bung from them so shipping was a sunk cost.
Locally, at a hose specialty shop, I found 3/4" oil rated silicone hose for $8 per foot and 7/8" for $14 per foot.
The cheapest oil drain I have come across is using 3/4" diesel fuel line from a big rig truck shop. The only problem with the 3/4" line is it's a pain in the rear to try to stretch it over the factory steel drain line on the top/secondary turbo.
Big Blue24
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That pan is "stock 727" depth which is much shallower than stock 47rh or 47re depth.
That seller has a 1.75" deeper than stock 727 pan for $36 dollars, I believe that is the pan I used on my Junker, however, I bought it over a year ago for less money from a different ebay vendor, but it looks like the same pan from the same manufacturer.
Newdieselguy
Captain sleeps alot
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I just read 25 pages of your build up all I can say is awesome job with the build and can't wait to see how it runs with the twins
Also now it makes me want to build one
Also now it makes me want to build one
Big Blue24
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Twins are complete! Well, I have (3) oil leaks to fix, but they were slow enough to do a little test driving last night.
This is a little bung I welded to the cold pipe to check boost pressure between stages. My welding skills are limited at best so I ran a bead of JB weld over my flux core weld to make sure there are no leaks.
I had to clock the top turbo (He351cw) just a little so that the discharge pipe would clear the hood. I wanted to utilize the stock wastegate actuator so I made a little steel bracket that bolts to the stock cast aluminum ears and allows the actuator to stay lined up with the wastegate arm.
Picture of the top turbo's oil drain line. I used about 4" of the stock steel line and then a 14" long piece of 3/4" silicone drain hose that I purchased from Source Automotive for $7 per foot.
Here's a picture of the bottom turbo's (HT4B) 5" exhaust setup.
My bottom turbo oil drain is leaking between the flange on the turbo and the mating surface on steel angle brace. It has a gasket but it's leaking about 1 drip every 10 seconds. It's a bear to work on this turbo and requires lots of disassembling so I'm not looking forward to fixing this leak. I probably need to forgo a gasket and get a good bead of red RTV gasket maker on there.
Bottom turbo oil drain line is a 10" piece of 3/4" drain line I purchased from Source Automotive. So far the JB weld/threaded bung at the oil pan is leak free.
Here's a picture of the modified coolant lines down near the water pump inlet. I deleted the heater loop and modified the transmission cooler loop for the relocated transmission cooler.
Here are the (2) 90* and (1) 45* mandrel bends that make up the high pressure charge pipe from the top turbo the stock charge air cooler in front of the radiator. I did my best to weld a small bead on these pipes to help keep the silicone couplers in place. I held the beads back a little so that I would have a nice flat space to install a third t-bolt clamp at the butt-joint connections.
Assembled charge air pipe.
Complete compound turbo setup:
This is a little bung I welded to the cold pipe to check boost pressure between stages. My welding skills are limited at best so I ran a bead of JB weld over my flux core weld to make sure there are no leaks.
I had to clock the top turbo (He351cw) just a little so that the discharge pipe would clear the hood. I wanted to utilize the stock wastegate actuator so I made a little steel bracket that bolts to the stock cast aluminum ears and allows the actuator to stay lined up with the wastegate arm.
Picture of the top turbo's oil drain line. I used about 4" of the stock steel line and then a 14" long piece of 3/4" silicone drain hose that I purchased from Source Automotive for $7 per foot.
Here's a picture of the bottom turbo's (HT4B) 5" exhaust setup.
My bottom turbo oil drain is leaking between the flange on the turbo and the mating surface on steel angle brace. It has a gasket but it's leaking about 1 drip every 10 seconds. It's a bear to work on this turbo and requires lots of disassembling so I'm not looking forward to fixing this leak. I probably need to forgo a gasket and get a good bead of red RTV gasket maker on there.
Bottom turbo oil drain line is a 10" piece of 3/4" drain line I purchased from Source Automotive. So far the JB weld/threaded bung at the oil pan is leak free.
Here's a picture of the modified coolant lines down near the water pump inlet. I deleted the heater loop and modified the transmission cooler loop for the relocated transmission cooler.
Here are the (2) 90* and (1) 45* mandrel bends that make up the high pressure charge pipe from the top turbo the stock charge air cooler in front of the radiator. I did my best to weld a small bead on these pipes to help keep the silicone couplers in place. I held the beads back a little so that I would have a nice flat space to install a third t-bolt clamp at the butt-joint connections.
Assembled charge air pipe.
Complete compound turbo setup:
Signature600
THA MAN!
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Looks good....lots of boots to blow though
Don't you love broken records?
Chris
Don't you love broken records?
Chris
Big Blue24
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I was able to perform two short test drives last night. First off, the thermostat mods combined with the modified heater loop made it so the truck takes forever to warm up to just above 140*F. I believe it is bad to beat on the motor when it's cold but we'll see how it does with the current setup.
This twin setup spools so much faster than the single GT4294 with 1.28 AR housing it's not worth comparing the two. Spool-up is very similar to my 98' daily driver with stock HX35 turbo, if it takes 3 seconds to see full boost with my 98' 12 valve, it takes 3.5 seconds to see full boost with the twins in my 95' Junker.
On my first test drive, I forgot to install the c-clip that retains the wastegate actuator arm so after hitting 25 psi boost the first time, the actuator arm detached from the wastegate arm. I drove around for another mile until I figured out what happened. With the wastegate flapping freely with no actuator to close it, this setup still spools faster than the GT42 did as a single.
After installing the c-clip, I went on a second drive and it started to hail/rain/sleet. I went WOT on a straight-a-way and at 10 psi it started to spin and I kept in it, during the short burnout, I saw 65 psi boost on my overall boost gauge and then something popped.
When, I got home, i discovered that I neglected to tighten the clamp on the bottom turbo outlet to silicone 45* and the silicone boot blew off. No damage occurred and it was a simple 5 minute fix. By this time, it really started to dump rail and sleet so I parked it for the night.
I know it's not much as far as feedback, but so far, I am really pleased with the increased driveability. I can't comment on horsepower because I haven't had the chance to do a highway pull above 65 MPH where I can put the power to the ground and feel the pull of the engine.
Based on the fact that I blew off a boot on the interstage pipe, I'd say that the bottom turbo is spooling up just fine.
As far as oil leaks, I have 3.
1. HT4B oil drain between turbo drain flange an steel support bracket.
2. HE351 oil feed at the 1/8NPT to inverted flare adapter, I think I'm going to have to run a whole new line and eliminate the mess of adapters.
3. Transmission cooler line is leaking just after the temp probe. The steel line is not perfectly round and I tried to make a compression fitting work. I suspected it would leak and it does have a small drip. I might try brazing a fitting onto the steel line, however, until I take the fittings apart, I won't final plan. I may end up spending more money to buy a transmission fitting and rebuilding that end of the cooler line with 3/8" steel pipe and fittings.
This twin setup spools so much faster than the single GT4294 with 1.28 AR housing it's not worth comparing the two. Spool-up is very similar to my 98' daily driver with stock HX35 turbo, if it takes 3 seconds to see full boost with my 98' 12 valve, it takes 3.5 seconds to see full boost with the twins in my 95' Junker.
On my first test drive, I forgot to install the c-clip that retains the wastegate actuator arm so after hitting 25 psi boost the first time, the actuator arm detached from the wastegate arm. I drove around for another mile until I figured out what happened. With the wastegate flapping freely with no actuator to close it, this setup still spools faster than the GT42 did as a single.
After installing the c-clip, I went on a second drive and it started to hail/rain/sleet. I went WOT on a straight-a-way and at 10 psi it started to spin and I kept in it, during the short burnout, I saw 65 psi boost on my overall boost gauge and then something popped.
When, I got home, i discovered that I neglected to tighten the clamp on the bottom turbo outlet to silicone 45* and the silicone boot blew off. No damage occurred and it was a simple 5 minute fix. By this time, it really started to dump rail and sleet so I parked it for the night.
I know it's not much as far as feedback, but so far, I am really pleased with the increased driveability. I can't comment on horsepower because I haven't had the chance to do a highway pull above 65 MPH where I can put the power to the ground and feel the pull of the engine.
Based on the fact that I blew off a boot on the interstage pipe, I'd say that the bottom turbo is spooling up just fine.
As far as oil leaks, I have 3.
1. HT4B oil drain between turbo drain flange an steel support bracket.
2. HE351 oil feed at the 1/8NPT to inverted flare adapter, I think I'm going to have to run a whole new line and eliminate the mess of adapters.
3. Transmission cooler line is leaking just after the temp probe. The steel line is not perfectly round and I tried to make a compression fitting work. I suspected it would leak and it does have a small drip. I might try brazing a fitting onto the steel line, however, until I take the fittings apart, I won't final plan. I may end up spending more money to buy a transmission fitting and rebuilding that end of the cooler line with 3/8" steel pipe and fittings.
Lostnwalmart
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Put some straps on it 
how did she drive!? You are motivating me to work on mine now.
how did she drive!? You are motivating me to work on mine now.
Big Blue24
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Looks good....lots of boots to blow though
Don't you love broken records?
Chris
So far the tubing from the high pressure turbo to the charge air cooler is holding great.
If it starts blowing apart, I'm going to weld a bolt on either side of each connection strap them together. I have about 10 days before the NHRDA race in Wittmann, AZ so I have a few days to test and troubleshoot.
Lostnwalmart
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loctite gasket maker - Product Details
That stuff does wonders
That stuff does wonders
Big Blue24
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Put some straps on it
It was a short, rainy test drive, but it put a big smile on my face, well worth the "hours" and "hours" of work.... I'm slow at rigged up fab work.
There are a couple of factors helping the charge pipe to stay intact, the top 90" is slipped over the HE351cw 2.75" outlet by about 1" and it's a pretty tight fit so the top 90* is pretty solid. The lower 90" is slipped into the charge air cooler inlet by about 2" so it's pretty solid in the up and down direction.
The cold pipe is the weakest link, however, I didn't think it would see over 30 psi so I wasn't as concerned with it. Testing will reveal how much pressure is in there and how well the setup will stay together.
shiftycapone
wandering the desert
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Nice Blue, thay came out lookin good. Now go get those 11's
Muddin_dude06
...
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Looks really good!
If your going to keep all those connections with silicone boots it wouldn't be a bad idea to add straps and/or weld some more on those beads to build them up some more.
If your going to keep all those connections with silicone boots it wouldn't be a bad idea to add straps and/or weld some more on those beads to build them up some more.
YOUNG GUNS15
Im AWESOME!!!!
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AH! so you are going to that? I'll see you there!! Unfortunately my transmission is still in pieces!
I'll be wearing my toxic diesel stuff. See ya there!
Big Blue24
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I did some more testing today on a closed course.
I still only have one boost gauge connected to monitor overall boost, so I haven't tuned in the wastegate yet but I'd guess it cracks around 26 psi. On a 0 to 115 MPH run, I see 75 psi boost.
The power is much more linear than the GT4294 single turbo setup. From a dead stop, it will start spinning about halfway through first gear as the boost gauge registers about 10 psi boost and within a second boost hits 30-35 psi and hovers for about a second till the big primary turbo lights and then it's off to 75 psi.
As far as power, it doesn't feel significantly stronger or weaker than the single GT4294, however the "linear" power is pretty deceiving so until I go to the track and see my trap speed, I won't know how much more power the twins are putting down. I've made a few adjustments to the rear suspension and it seems to hook up much better with the street tires. Before it would still spin uncontrollably at 60 MPH, now, once I hit 45 MPH it will hook up and go. I do have about 150 extra pounds in the bed and it just rained so the roads are clean so that might help with traction.
With the smoothness of the power delivery from the twins and the added traction from suspension modifications, I think this truck will run somewhere between 12.2 to 11.9. It's definitely not an 11.5 second ride right now so I probably won't need a cage for the upcoming event.
Once I get everything dialed in, my next power modification is going to be the installation of full-cut delivery valves to replace the current DDP 042 delivery valves.
I still only have one boost gauge connected to monitor overall boost, so I haven't tuned in the wastegate yet but I'd guess it cracks around 26 psi. On a 0 to 115 MPH run, I see 75 psi boost.
The power is much more linear than the GT4294 single turbo setup. From a dead stop, it will start spinning about halfway through first gear as the boost gauge registers about 10 psi boost and within a second boost hits 30-35 psi and hovers for about a second till the big primary turbo lights and then it's off to 75 psi.
As far as power, it doesn't feel significantly stronger or weaker than the single GT4294, however the "linear" power is pretty deceiving so until I go to the track and see my trap speed, I won't know how much more power the twins are putting down. I've made a few adjustments to the rear suspension and it seems to hook up much better with the street tires. Before it would still spin uncontrollably at 60 MPH, now, once I hit 45 MPH it will hook up and go. I do have about 150 extra pounds in the bed and it just rained so the roads are clean so that might help with traction.
With the smoothness of the power delivery from the twins and the added traction from suspension modifications, I think this truck will run somewhere between 12.2 to 11.9. It's definitely not an 11.5 second ride right now so I probably won't need a cage for the upcoming event.
Once I get everything dialed in, my next power modification is going to be the installation of full-cut delivery valves to replace the current DDP 042 delivery valves.
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