95' Junker Drag Truck

JBoner said:
Awesome build man, I'm looking for a cheap 2wd now. I have a few sets of used M/T Slicks 33/10.5w/16, you can have a set if you think it will get you closer to your goal. I'm in NM so not too far away, just pay for shipping or find a way to get them and they are yours. Let me know, keep up the good work!
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That price fits right in with the junker's budget!! :clap: Thats cool:Cheer:
 
I took the Junker to Las Vegas Motor Speedway last Friday night for the street legal midnight mayhem drags. I went in true street legal form and was running some half worn-out Wrangler MTR 285/75/16's at 35 psi with Kevlar reinforced sidewalls. They are heavy and stiff but seem to get a little more traction than the old 245 Michelins.

The truck has been taking longer and longer to spool up the large atmosphere and the problem finally showed up, it was a blown inter-stage boot right at the HT4B compressor outlet 45* silicone bend. The tear was on the underside and so I missed it during my troubleshooting sessions.

I lined up against a stock appearing 2011 Camaro SS, he actually had a 100 shot of nitrous on his otherwise 2 week old Camaro. It was a close race but he got me by a few feet at the line with a 0.056 second margin of victory.

TimeSlip6-17-11.jpg


Anyway, my truck ran slower and slower as the night progressed. Peak boost pressure also got lower and lower but I wasn't able to find the bad boot till I got home. I actually had thought that possibly the top turbo's turbine wheel was slowly eroding away.

On the 13.23 @ 114.3 run, the truck was making 65 psi boost.

On the 13.99 @ 112.6 run, the truck was making around 60 psi boost.

On the 13.92 @ 107.9 run, the truck was making 45 psi max in overdrive.


Even though my truck was running pretty slow, it was still fun doing big smoky burnouts with those Wrangler MTR's.

TornBoot03.jpg



TornBoot04.jpg


You can see the short radius 3.5" steel 45* I used to line the inside of the 45* silicone elbow, it's possible that the sharp edge of the 3.5" steel elbow contributed to the failure. All that I know is the truck had been much slower to spool the past few test rides and I'm glad the problem surfaced.

TornBoot02.jpg


TornBoot01.jpg


And here's the replacement part I made by welding a 45* bend to the 90* bend.

TornBoot05.jpg


TornBoot07.jpg


TornBoot06.jpg
 
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It seems like when ever some one uses a non strait boot that is always the first thing to go. Glad you found the problem.
 
Lostnwalmart said:
It seems like when ever some one uses a non strait boot that is always the first thing to go. Glad you found the problem.
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I agree, the straight boots hold up just fine it seems.

I thought I could get away with it since the interstage coldpipe probably doesn't see more than 40 psi at full power and much less during the first part of the run when the HT4B is still spooling.

Lesson learned, silicone bending reducers are not ideal for more than 20 or so psi.
 
me too! im still running the stock boots on the cold side of the intercooler with no issues, usually see's 65psi
 
I did a few 1/4 mile passes at The Strip last night. I only made one full power pass, the first one, after that I fought boot blow-off issues on the stock silicone elbow on the drivers side between the charge air cooler 3.5" outlet and the 3" charge pipe.

On the first pass, I ran 12.30 @ 116.8MPH. This ties my best overall ET and is my best trap speed to date. I fought traction off the line and spun quite a bit at the top of 2nd gear, bottom of 3rd gear where full boost came in. I was squirrely mid track but I stayed in it and steered it straight the best I could. This pass was with a lousy 2.0x 60' time, I'm starting to get discouraged with the current traction situation and thinking about spending a few bucks on some real race tires. Any suggestions? I've been kicking around the idea of Mickey Thompson 315/60/15 drag radials because I can legally drive to the track with them as well as run them at the cheap $15 street legal racing nights.


After fixing the blown boot 3-4 times and never getting even a full 1/8th mile pass before losing a boot, I went home early and started working on a revised charge pipe for the driver's side. I reused the long straight piece and portions of the stock bent charge pipe from the driver's side and came up with this:

ChargePipe6-22003.jpg


ChargePipe6-22004.jpg


It has just a little bit of flex room at the top but leaves plenty of silicone hose overlap for double clamps.

ChargePipe6-22005.jpg


At the bottom it goes inside the charge air cooler about 1-1/2" and the two factory rolled beads protrude enough to make it fit just loose enough to flex but still tight enough to keep most of the high speed boost charge off of the silicone boot.

ChargePipe6-22006.jpg


ChargePipe6-22007.jpg
 
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Blue, your truck is great! Keep up the good work for all us cheapskates!
 
Here's a picture of the latest 12.309 @ 116.85 MPH time slip. My previous best is technically still my personal best as it was a 12.3006.

I checked out the density altitude yesterday during my run, it was HOT 105*F with a density altitude of 5760'.

My all time personal best 12.3006 run in Whittmann, AZ had a density altitude of 2657' so much better air.

My second pass where I got almost a full 1/8th before losing a boot had a better 60' and 330' time, too bad the boot slipped off!


TimeSlip6-22007.jpg
 
I would strap the joints, so the boots only have to hold pressure, not the movement and pull of the pipe too.

True slicks have a wider margin of error and still get the suspension close enough to make some decent 60's. Drag radials take more work to tune the suspension in.
 
fast and tall drag radials is the way to go, either the mt's you listed or.m&h... you can air both of em down and hook almost as good as a pair of slicks, in fact my best 60' is on drag radials, was .001 slower with slicks, still working on it..
 
I ran the 315 mt's when my rig ran on gas and loved them. Could drive to the track and back home without changing them was the big plus. The harder i hit them off the line the better they hooked. They hooked like glue after you took the time to adjust everything. If your wanting to keep your budget theme going check out the classifieds on yellowbullet. Theirs usually a couple used sets on their for sale. I picked a set up local that are a year old and look like new for 200 bucks.
 
did you get to the track this weekend? I drove through vegas on my way to cali on sunday, shoulda brought my trans over hahahaha


Good luck on the 11's, i think you will be the fastest STOCK INPUT truck out there haha
 
garretthart13 said:
blue, have you been using your stock input this whole time and did you ever get it cryoed
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Never been cryo'd, adjusted, disassembled, or anything.

YOUNG GUNS15 said:
did you get to the track this weekend? I drove through vegas on my way to cali on sunday, shoulda brought my trans over hahahaha


Good luck on the 11's, i think you will be the fastest STOCK INPUT truck out there haha
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If it makes 11's on the stock input, it will be 100% related to my inability to make this truck hook.

Homebuilt caltracs + 2wd + Road Racing slicks= Slippery launches with wheel-spin locked shifts. At the rate I'm going, it's going to run 11.99 @ 122 MPH.

I've been studying up on suspension tuning the past week or so and from what I've read so far, I'm doing it all wrong :nail:

The 242,000 mile stock rear shocks are probably not helping with the traction situation either.
 
Big Blue24 said:
Never been cryo'd, adjusted, disassembled, or anything.



If it makes 11's on the stock input, it will be 100% related to my inability to make this truck hook.

Homebuilt caltracs + 2wd + Road Racing slicks= Slippery launches with wheel-spin locked shifts. At the rate I'm going, it's going to run 11.99 @ 122 MPH.

I've been studying up on suspension tuning the past week or so and from what I've read so far, I'm doing it all wrong :nail:

The 242,000 mile stock rear shocks are probably not helping with the traction situation either.
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it dont matter until you put a good tire under that thing. if i remember right my shocks on the dually look like factory shocks. it has 230k on it.
 
well just to let you know blue this thread is really inspirational to me, i been a powerstroke fan my whole life until one day i realized WTF am i thinking theyre slow as hell, so i went to Louisiana the next day and picked up a gen 1 block and started building to swap into my f250, then i realized its cheaper to buy a dodge then to make a fummins. (none of these parts were on the truck before the build so i have no clue how it will run)So i bout a 96 2wd single cab 2500 with 420,000 miles on it. i had my gen one block bored 0.050 over , line bored, fire ringed etc etc. i am now in the process of swapping the block. Tranny wise, i have a dacco billet single disk, dtt DIY valve body, billet servo and accumulator with wedge strut and apply lever,Governor Solenoid to GM
Pressure Control Solenoid Conversion Kit, kolene steels with red eagle clutches. I have a airdog 165, arp studs, fire rings,60 lb springs,and getting new valves and seats as i type 4kgsk on a 175 w a mac rack plug and im getting a 215 to add to my collection of pumps(4 so far lol) i have a 2011 6.7 vgt turbo but ill probably wont use it after i read about yours (swole) and sadly stock wore out 420,000 injectors(anybody have some they want to sell CHEAP!!! or donate lol) and last but not least an old snow meth system
 
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