ARP Installation

It could have been there before and you didn't notice, but usually a thud in the intake means something to do with intake valves (cam wear, pushrods, valves not seating properly, etc...).
 
X2 on valve lash. Make sure it is cool and double check it. Heard it a time or two in 24v cummins. Just an odd thump in the intake. Cured several times just by doing the lash.
 
unless you didnt get one of the push rods in correctly and bent it that would cause a loud pop back through the intake a guy brought a 7.3 into the shop and sounded like a shot gun was goin off in the air filter found 2 bent push rods and a broken rocker arm
 
Well no its not a loud thumping just like thump....thump.... thump.. etc... its not loud popping im heading home now can u guys tell me when i put cylinder 1 on TDC what valves can I adjust I just dont have the diagram
 
I checked the pushrods yesterday I dont see any damage no bends or warped pushrods so I will take that off the list nI will probably end up buying the extreme pushrods just in case
 
Post a vid of the sound. Maybe someone will have an idea. What did you set the lash to? I did mine at .08/.18 and it quieted it down a bit. Also, when I bumped my timing up, it quieted down more.
 
I was trying to reach you Hydroshok this weekend and I never got an answer lol well I wasnt able to set it since engine was still warm so it will have to be till this afternoon. I will set to .10/.20 intake/exhaust see if it calms it down ill try to get a video if not im coming to tampa this weekend
 
When adjusting the valves after I had done the studs the lash was too tight I had adjusted it when I did the valve springs but yes I couldnt even get the .08 into the intake and the .10 on the exhaust was tight when it should have been .20
 
I apologize on bugging you guys again I have driven the truck now for a whole week I was wondering how I would do the retorque? Do I have to remove each stud one by one or do I just need to verify that its a 125 lbs?
 
I just set the wrench to 128-130 range and hit all of the them again, no loosening or re lubing unless you get a springy stud that springs back after the torque wrench is removed showing that it needs more lube.

Torque them starting in the middle following the factory torque sequence.
 
I just ran across a good site for tap extensions and bottom taps. I'll post the info here in case someone else is looking.

http://www.nemic.net/

122-009 - part number for an 8" extension
 
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