Cam install tips

[wdimig]

if you do use the dowels, in addition to tapering the ends so that they insert into the tappet, cut a 1/2" long vertical slit on the end of the tapered rod directly in the middle of the rod using a hacksaw so that when it goes into the tappet, it compresses, and provides a better hold on the tappet. as far at installing the tappets, i use a long extendable magnet, and attach it to the part of the tappet that rides in the block, then push it down the trough, and eye it up with the dowel, insert the dowel into the tappet, pull it up into the block, turn the trough over and firmly push on the dowel rod to make sure it is seated on the tappet and pull backup into the block and secure it to it's neighboring tapppet. make sure that you use plenty of assembly lube all over the tappets and cam, torque the cam retainer/thrust plate to 20 ft. lbs., reinstall everything(front cover bolts 24 ft.lbs., front harmonic damper bolts are 92ft. lbs., valve lash .010I/.020E thsnds. or whatever the cam manufacturer reccomends) add ZDDP to the engine oil(can go a step further and change the oil before starting) start engine up, and rev it up to 2k rpm and hold it there for for 20min. to allow the cam and tappets to get to know to each other, relash your valves, and your done!

....and yes replace your tappets, you want the cam and tappets to wear together, already worn tappets will wear with a new cam, but may also cause premature wear on a new cam. it's cheap insurance on your new $$$ cam.

Wes

 

[madmikeismad]

When should us 12v guys be looking at swapping the stock cam out? I'm not looking to do fly cut pistons or anything but I have been thinking about a cam as part of my 700hp build

I'd say anytime if you have the money. Who doesn't need lower EGT's and faster spoolup and better mpg's?

easy way to put the gear on the cam put the cam in the freezer over night and put the cam gear in the oven at like 200-250 for 30-45 mins the gear will drop right onto the cam with out having to even tap it. give a hour or two to get back to room temp and install away. I have done a cam swap with the head off and the head on.

I was thinking of doing that lol. Didn't know how much freezing it would help though.

However when putting in a new or reground cam you should always degree it to ensure it is where it is supposed to be. This may mean you need to pull it out again, press the gear off, swap keys, reinstall.

I used neodymium magnets on the sides of the tappets to hold them up since I didn't have any dowels. I was uneasy about it at first, but it worked great.

Thanks.

its a good idea to replace the tappets anytime you do a cam swap no matter how big of a pain it is

if you do use the dowels, in addition to tapering the ends so that they insert into the tappet, cut a 1/2" long vertical slit on the end of the tapered rod directly in the middle of the rod using a hacksaw so that when it goes into the tappet, it compresses, and provides a better hold on the tappet. as far at installing the tappets, i use a long extendable magnet, and attach it to the part of the tappet that rides in the block, then push it down the trough, and eye it up with the dowel, insert the dowel into the tappet, pull it up into the block, turn the trough over and firmly push on the dowel rod to make sure it is seated on the tappet and pull backup into the block and secure it to it's neighboring tapppet. make sure that you use plenty of assembly lube all over the tappets and cam, torque the cam retainer/thrust plate to 20 ft. lbs., reinstall everything(front cover bolts 24 ft.lbs., front harmonic damper bolts are 92ft. lbs., valve lash .010I/.020E thsnds. or whatever the cam manufacturer reccomends) add ZDDP to the engine oil(can go a step further and change the oil before starting) start engine up, and rev it up to 2k rpm and hold it there for for 20min. to allow the cam and tappets to get to know to each other, relash your valves, and your done!

....and yes replace your tappets, you want the cam and tappets to wear together, already worn tappets will wear with a new cam, but may also cause premature wear on a new cam. it's cheap insurance on your new $$$ cam.

Wes

Thanks for those numbers. And I guess I'll do tappets too then. I have to drop the pan anyways to change the gasket.

Who has tappets? Are there "performance" ones I should check out? I can't recall seeing them anywhere, but thats probably because I wasn't looking for them.

 

[GOT-Torque]

just get a set of CR tappets from Mumau...

 

[madmikeismad]

just get a set of CR tappets from Mumau...

Alright mumau it is. I'll have to see if they have the zinc too.

 

[Leyerly1]

Does your cam have the mechanical lift pump lobe on it? If so your gonna want to narrow it up so it doesn't contact the foot on your CR tappets IIRC it's between the #5 int. Exh. lobes.

 

[madmikeismad]

I think it does. I haven't actually seen the cam yet in person. It's at home in the garage.

 

[yeah___Buddy]

this might help
Replace Your Camshaft, Lifters 'n Stuff . . . . - Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource Forums

 

[madmikeismad]

Good find, thank you.

 

[yeah___Buddy]

i gonna do a p pump swap on my first gen and while im down there i am gonna swap the cam with a hamilton cam, and that thread is gold.

 

[madmikeismad]

Yeah I just read the whole thing. Its amazing. This doesn't look so bad now. Thanks a ton man.

 

[madmikeismad]

Also, this cam is a hamilton big stick. If I run with CR tappets, do I have to grind the lift pump lobe thinner? I'd rather not if I don't have to. But if necessary, I will.

 

[YOUNG GUNS15]

Its not a hamilton, but im running a helix 2 with the lift pump lobe and what look like CR tappets (bigger diameter) with no issues

 

[StainlessRRA]

I installed my cam with the motor sitting on the stand. WAY easier. LOL

 

[madmikeismad]

I installed my cam with the motor sitting on the stand. WAY easier. LOL

lol I'll bet

 

[Leyerly1]

Also, this cam is a hamilton big stick. If I run with CR tappets, do I have to grind the lift pump lobe thinner? I'd rather not if I don't have to. But if necessary, I will.

I would call Zach just to be safe, i just put a Hamilton 188/220 in a 97' and we had to have the lobe ground for the CR tappets. $.02

 

[Leyerly1]

I installed my cam with the motor sitting on the stand. WAY easier. LOL

^^^^^x2

 

[madmikeismad]

I would call Zach just to be safe, i just put a Hamilton 188/220 in a 97' and we had to have the lobe ground for the CR tappets. $.02

I can't really call him, I have limited access to phones here. I'm just waiting on a pm from him. That's the cam I have.

 

[madmikeismad]

I'm trying to imagine this in my head, but it's hard without actually seeing it in person (at least for me)

Do you need to pull the tappet cover off if you are dropping the pan to change the tappets?

 

[Meyers Farms]

I'm trying to imagine this in my head, but it's hard without actually seeing it in person (at least for me)

Do you need to pull the tappet cover off if you are dropping the pan to change the tappets?

No you will have complete access to the tappets from the bottom of the engine with the pan off and cam removed. Without flipping the engine upside down you will have to use something to hold the tappets in place, otherwise they will just fall right out.

 

[madmikeismad]

Ok, so I haven't ever removed the tappet cover before. It's underneath the pump right? Do you have to remove the pump?