Cam install tips

madmikeismad said:
Ok, so I haven't ever removed the tappet cover before. It's underneath the pump right? Do you have to remove the pump?
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I would think because its pretty tight behind the pump, but it could very well be possible. Try it and if it don't work you'll know.
 
Leyerly1 said:
I would think because its pretty tight behind the pump, but it could very well be possible. Try it and if it don't work you'll know.
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Maybe it will be possible to hold them in there while my friend slides the cam in?
 
yes that is possible, to hold the tappets up, and gently slide the cam inplace, just make sure that you use those dowel rods to hold the installed tappets up out of the way so that the cam does not get caught on them while sliding it in, and of course two people are needed for that type of procedure, i would recoomend using a long screwdriver to hold the tappet up in the block while the cam is being slid into place, would really suck to get a finger stuck inbetween the cam and the block.... the tappet cover does require the removal of the inj. pump with the head installed(even with the head off it still would be difficult to remove), trust me you want that big pump out of your way, i would take a good look at the tappet cover gasket, it may be wise to take the pump off and replace it, the rubber gasket get very hard, and brittle over time, and starts to crack, and eventually leak, excessive crankcase pressure will exagerate that problem quickly, if it is not cracked, and or not leaking, i would leave it alone.

Wes
 
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Yeah ok. I have to drop the pan for a gasket change anyways. Might as well do it when I do the cam swap. So I'll just swap the tappets from underneath and have my friend slide the cam it while I hold the tappets out of the way.

Actually, how hard is it to push the dowels into the tappets? Can I hold it with my hand and have friend push the dowel into it? Then tie off the dowel up top?
 
madmikeismad said:
Actually, how hard is it to push the dowels into the tappets? Can I hold it with my hand and have friend push the dowel into it? Then tie off the dowel up top?
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Not terrible, taper the ends a bit. Some guys cut a slit in the end of the dowels as well, gives them some spring. Push the dowels into ALL the tappets before you pull the cam and use heavy rubber bands around the dowels to hold them up and out of the way. Go easy when you remove/install the cam so you don't beat up the Journals.
 
Leyerly1 said:
Not terrible, taper the ends a bit. Some guys cut a slit in the end of the dowels as well, gives them some spring. Push the dowels into ALL the tappets before you pull the cam and use heavy rubber bands around the dowels to hold them up and out of the way. Go easy when you remove/install the cam so you don't beat up the Journals.
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Planned on all of that. I've pretty much got every write up I've found memorized now. Only 3 more months till I can do the swap!! Now I'm just down to the nitty gritty questions. I don't want to be balls deep into the swap and have something not go right, and then hope to God that someone on compD is up at 2am to help me out.
 
One thing I didn't think to ask:

How hard is it to get the gear off the old cam? I don't want to mess up the stock cam, I'd like to be able to give it to someone who might need one.

EDIT: Also, can you re-use the crank seal in the timing cover? I changed when I did the KDP, but If I need to change it again, I will.
 
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madmikeismad said:
One thing I didn't think to ask:

How hard is it to get the gear off the old cam? I don't want to mess up the stock cam, I'd like to be able to give it to someone who might need one.

EDIT: Also, can you re-use the crank seal in the timing cover? I changed when I did the KDP, but If I need to change it again, I will.
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Need to press the gear off. But can be put on by putting the cam in the freezer over night and putting the gear in the oven at 300* for about 30mins it usually just drops on. Might as well replace the seal it's cheap insurance.
 
Also I seen you might pull the tappet cover if so you can use hose clamps to hold up the tappets instead of dowels if that's the case.
 
03f3507.3 said:
Need to press the gear off. But can be put on by putting the cam in the freezer over night and putting the gear in the oven at 300* for about 30mins it usually just drops on. Might as well replace the seal it's cheap insurance.
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Yeah, I knew about the heating and cooling trick, just wasn't sure about taking it off the stock cam. Should I bother heating the gear to help press it off?
 
No just put it in a press and push it off.Mine came off easy.Also put the windshild wipers on the high swing then turn the key off.That way the 5 and 6 pushrods can go through the rubber gromits in the cowl with out hitting the wiper arms.
 
Cam in the freezer for 30mins and gear in the oven for 30mins and it'll fall right on.
 
duallyspeed said:
No just put it in a press and push it off.Mine came off easy.Also put the windshild wipers on the high swing then turn the key off.That way the 5 and 6 pushrods can go through the rubber gromits in the cowl with out hitting the wiper arms.
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I gotta remember that for later.
 
Oh yeah, about the zinc additive. This isn't a brand new cam, it's already got a few k on it. Should I still run the zinc, or just a fresh oil change?
 
I would keep running it but thats just me. Some of the newer oils have lower zinc content than older oils , but I would definitely run it for the first oil change. I still run it in mine and its on change #3. For the price of a bottle I'd rather not take the chance with a new cam.
 
How much is a bottle, and where I can it get? Any local parts store? I've never actually noticed it before.

And no, mumao doesn't have it, I already asked :D
 
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