Compound turbo build and other updates

I suppose I'll have to run the drain to the pan since I don't have a extra port in the block. Is a 3/4 drain big enough for the s400? I am using 3/4" OD pipe and 3/4" hose right now.
 
12vCumminsFTW said:
I suppose I'll have to run the drain to the pan since I don't have a extra port in the block. Is a 3/4 drain big enough for the s400? I am using 3/4" OD pipe and 3/4" hose right now.
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certainly work better than two into the one 3/4 port! thats the equivalent of a 3/8 line each. :(
 
AHall said:
Um not exactly.
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So YOU go ahead and do the math if it makes you happy, its still not big enough to drain properly. I've seen a LOT of turbos ruined on 12v's because they only had 1 drain. :nail:
 
I agree it's a good idea to have two, just isn't close to two 3/8".
 
Y drains work well, weve done it both ways with no issues. I would neveruse a T but a Y works quite well and has on 100's of trucks.

Split them if you are able too, but a Y works also.
 
hmmmm maybe I can just redo my Y setup. Taylor where do you usually put the Y? I think if I put it down by the block and get a lot more drop in the line it might work better. Where I have it now the primary drain is barely downhill.
 
TMONEYDIESEL said:
Y drains work well, weve done it both ways with no issues. I would neveruse a T but a Y works quite well and has on 100's of trucks.

Split them if you are able too, but a Y works also.
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There is a big difference between what "works well" and what you can get away with. It may not be as bad with side-by-sides as the drains can be long and downhill, but with over/under set-ups the primary drain oil cant travel down hardly at all before it has to go forward to meet the other drain line. This becomes a major issue under hard acceleration as the gravity drain oil is trying to go forward and inertia is forcing it back as oil flow and rpms and heat are increasing.
 
It can't be that much extra work for another drain when you consider how much it can screw up.
 
Finally got the new .83 housing and e-gate on.
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OK, so I ran manifold boost to the top port on the gate, with my boost controller inline. Spools like crap and runs hot, must be cracking open at really low boost? Boost would actually exceed driveLOL

Does anyone have any input on setting up the gate? I'm new to all this external gate stuff. BTW its a turbosmart 45mm
 
Is the boost controller getting clogged by soot and prevening drive from reaching the top port of the gate?

Maybe you need more spring pressure in the gate holding the valve closed as well.

For some reason I was thinking you meant exhaust manifold boost i.e. drive. Nevermind............
 
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NickTF said:
Is the boost controller getting clogged by soot and prevening drive from reaching the top port of the gate?

Maybe you need more spring pressure in the gate holding the valve closed as well.
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? There shouldn't be soot in the line, its coming off the compressor housing.

I was looking the turbosmart instructions, they say to run the regulated bost to the bottom port, guess I'll try that.

It came with a 14 psi spring I believe.
 
Try spooling it up without that filter and reducer. You might notice a little bit. With my single 66 I noticed a lot of spool up change when I took my BRAND NEW bhaf filter off. Just doesn't allow enough flow. Of course this is only for racing but you get the idea.

I know this isn't a twin application but I held my external gate shut with boost pressure and it seemed to work well that way. Haven't run that setup in over a year so maybe I'm off. That's just how I thought it should be plumber .02
 
12vCumminsFTW said:
? There shouldn't be soot in the line, its coming off the compressor housing.

I was looking the turbosmart instructions, they say to run the regulated bost to the bottom port, guess I'll try that.

It came with a 14 psi spring I believe.
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*edited*

This is fairly simple. I would assume the top port is just like the ED/JGS gate i've run in the past. Any boost you provide to the top port should aid in keeping the valve of the gate closed. The bottom port whould push up against the diaphragm and help open the gate. If you plumb boost to the bottom the gate will open sooner. Again, all of this assumes that gate functions the same as the ED/JGS did.

14 psi is not alot. Are you sure your boost controller is all the way open allowing max boost to the top of the gate?
 
TURBOLVR said:
There is a big difference between what "works well" and what you can get away with. It may not be as bad with side-by-sides as the drains can be long and downhill, but with over/under set-ups the primary drain oil cant travel down hardly at all before it has to go forward to meet the other drain line. This becomes a major issue under hard acceleration as the gravity drain oil is trying to go forward and inertia is forcing it back as oil flow and rpms and heat are increasing.
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Has worked great for many of us and other companys under hard and light acceleration with no problems EVER. When the customer is able to do a 2nd drain is used. If done right they work with no problems, ill continue to use them in the kits needed.
 
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