Compound turbo build and other updates

TMONEYDIESEL said:
When the customer is able to do a 2nd drain is used.

If done right they work with no problems, ill continue to use them in the kits needed.
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Why bother with the second drain if 1 works "just fine". :bang

No multi-turbo kit requires a single only drain. Its just being lazy.

I have seen a LOT of blown turbo seals, mostly from 12v that used single drain kits. Must just be a co-incidence? :doh:
 
YOUNG GUNS15 said:
Try spooling it up without that filter and reducer. You might notice a little bit. With my single 66 I noticed a lot of spool up change when I took my BRAND NEW bhaf filter off. Just doesn't allow enough flow. Of course this is only for racing but you get the idea.

I know this isn't a twin application but I held my external gate shut with boost pressure and it seemed to work well that way. Haven't run that setup in over a year so maybe I'm off. That's just how I thought it should be plumber .02
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The filter on the primary is an AFE with a 5.5" inlet, no reducer there. There is a 3-4 reducer off the cold pipe, but the cold pipe is 3'' and so is the s400 comp outlet. I could be wrong but I don't think a bhaf really flows that great.


Anyways, I ran the line to the bottom port of the gate and no change. The boost controller must be screwed up or something else is wrong. I'm gonna get a regulator tommorrow.

This is the Turbosmart instructions.


http://www.turbosmartusa.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/TS-0506-1001_Hypergate45_MAY_12_rev-2.pdf
 
Do you have a block off plate for the WG port? That would be a good way to rule out the waste gate opening and slowing spool up.
 
mathews8pt said:
Do you have a block off plate for the WG port? That would be a good way to rule out the waste gate opening and slowing spool up.
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I don't have a block off plate, but I'm going to run unregulated boost to the top port, which should hold it shut.


Sent from my iPhone 4s
 
WTF. I ran full unregulated boost to the top, no difference in spool. I think the gate was staying shut on the top end, as primary boost wouldn't hardly go over 20 and drive started to climb fast. But spool still sucks, worse than the .7 t3 open volute housing. Can't build 20 psi till like 1900 rpm. Basically spools like the old 66/74/.91. So either something else is wrong or swapping to the .83 housing was a total waste of my freakin time.:soap::bang
 
TURBOLVR said:
Why bother with the second drain if 1 works "just fine". :bang

No multi-turbo kit requires a single only drain. Its just being lazy.

I have seen a LOT of blown turbo seals, mostly from 12v that used single drain kits. Must just be a co-incidence? :doh:
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I would say i respect your opinion but ive seen what you sell, so your opinion doesnt hold any worth for me.
 
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TMONEYDIESEL said:
I would say i respect your opinion but ive seen what you sell, so your opinion doesnt hold any worth for me.
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Likewise. hence the comments. Trying to change the subject and mud-slinging is typical from you.

It is simple, using a single drain where 2 are needed is akin to using vice grips where a wrench is needed. You may get away with it, but telling others to do it is bad practice. $.02
 
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Something has to be wrong with this thing. I need to pull the gate off when I get time see if somethings screwed up. Cruising flat ground at 75mph (2000 rpm) egt run 900-1000, slight hill or easing into the throttle results in a big haze and 1200+. Worse than the 66:doh:Haven't gone wot but drive is always pretty much 1:1 which seems point to the gate cracking still? Even though it should stay shut with full boost plumbed to the top port. :(
 
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I would pull the gate back apart and be sure all is well and the seat is not upside down or something.
 
Well may have found the part of the problem anyway. It appears the wastegate flanges were not bolting up tight, the gate outlet pipe is welded solid to the hotpipe and isn't letting the gate v-band flanges come together perfect. When I took it apart the clamps were full of soot :doh: So since the flanges weren't tight the valve seat may have been cocked a bit and cracking the gate open enough to kill spool?
IMG_0210_zpsc00f9b42.jpg

IMG_0212_zps952024bd.jpg

IMG_0211_zpsd98ecf50.jpg


Looks like I'll have to redo the hotpipe(again), maybe put a flex joint in the gate dump pipe. Dang it.
 
It doesn't take much. I had a pin hole of a boost leak last year. Completely KILLED my ability to brake-boost.

I'm still slowly leading out boost and drive leaks, mileage and spool is going up now LOL
 
Damn. For some reason fixing leaks hasn't really ever made a difference on my truck. Like last year the IC had a huge leak, put in a brand new BD, didn't make a difference LOL Hopefully fixing this helps, this thing is a absolute pos right now.
 
What a pile, I made sure the v band on the mani was seated, big leak on the outlet flange but that shouldn't affect low end spool I dont think. Took it for a spin, no freakin difference
 
Do you think the new exhaust housing on your secondary made that much difference in spool up?

I know I could tell a night and day difference just between a T3 .70 and a T3 .80 (12 & 14)

Hope you get it figured out.
 
I would have thought that a slightly bigger divided housing would spool the same or better than the .7 open housing . But I can't be 100% sure it's the housing causing the lag yet. I need to get some caps to block the gate ports to make sure it's not the gate still.


Sent from my iPhone 4s
 
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RDVO_hUSnTI"]2000 rpm lag - YouTube[/ame]
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOBotBc79Ds"]70mph cruise - YouTube[/ame]
 
There has to be a leak somewhere., high egt cruising is a good indicator.

Have you tried adding or removing fuel since the new housing?
 
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