Compound turbo build and other updates

well looks like the head's gonna have to come off, it broke off a couple inches below the top of the head and its in there tight! crap
 
Jim Fulmer saved me from pulling the head using a trick he knew. I used a piece of pipe(it was an old bbgun barrel) that fit down the bolt hole and just long enough to stick out of the head 1/2". I used a welding rod that fit inside the pipe. I got a friend to turn the welder on exactly when I struck the arc. I got enough weld on it to stick the pipe to the bolt. Then sprayed it with wd40 or the like. I let it sit for a few hours, put a vise grip on it and it screwed right out. I probably wouldn't have needed the vise grip.:Cheer:
 
Ive done left handed drill bits too. Get a small Pilot then get the biggest that will fit. Done it a lot of exhaust manifold bolts that were broke into heads. Try Jims Way he was told i want to see how it works!
 
scat said:
Ive done left handed drill bits too. Get a small Pilot then get the biggest that will fit. Done it a lot of exhaust manifold bolts that were broke into heads. Try Jims Way he was told i want to see how it works!
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I tried drilling into it but wasn't getting anywhere, that stud is HARD. I'll try the weld idea and if that don't work I'll pull the head. I'll have to pull it anyway sometime as it is cracked and seeps coolant. :doh:
 
12vCumminsFTW said:
but this one dropped in without modifying piping
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TMONEYDIESEL said:
Hey a CR S300 would have done the same with a HE351 flange!
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12vCumminsFTW said:
But I could just swap housings right? this turbo is just a regular BW 63/68 with a custom exh housing as far as I know
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TMONEYDIESEL said:
Correct sir
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:umno: the 351 turbine housing is about an inch shorter than the S300 turbine housing. The 351 is also shorter from the shaft centerline to the mounting face compared to an S300. You would have to mod the hot pipe at the least. $.02
 
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Ok dudes, finally got the stud out. Welded a pipe to it and it turned right out! ImageUploadedByTapatalk1360529033.419982.jpg


Sent from my iPhone 4s
 
TURBOLVR said:
:umno: the 351 turbine housing is about an inch shorter than the S300 turbine housing. The 351 is also shorter from the shaft centerline to the mounting face compared to an S300. You would have to mod the hot pipe at the least. $.02
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Thats correct, as a single the normally will drop right in, in a twin kit you will have to modify the hot pipe. Maybe i can find some pics of having to modify twin kits to fit..

Glad you got the stud out!!
 
guess I'm gonna be changing things up again, this open turbine housing on the 63 is too lazy and hot on the bottom end and drive is still kinda high. So I'm getting a .83 t4 divided housing and 50mm e-gate. If that doesn't work how I want then I'm setting this thing on fire LOL
 
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Ok so I was playing with the boost controller in the gate line, if I open the gate more drive pressure does drop, and the primary runs harder. I can push the 88 up to 35-40 psi and total boost drops to like 65-70, and drive will be down to 80-85. The funny thing is the more I open the gate the hotter egts get, it ran the coolest with the gate line blocked, but drive would peg the 100 psi gauge.

I should take some video of the gauges, but in this video I had the gate opening more and boost was around 65 and drive was actually readable on the gaugeLOL
But egt hit almost 2000. Wth?

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2nMqs1DFOY"]25 psi 4wd launch - YouTube[/ame]

I just hope the bigger housing and gate help.
 
Not sure how running on jackstands helps in tuning
 
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