F250/Cummins Swap

Failure to F......

The coolant line for the reservoir strikes the wastegate flange. I guess I will have to hash out a solution. Even with the bolts out and dropped 7/16" I still don't have clearance. It may get AN flanges welded to it and soft line down the side of the block.
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Switching gears from that fuckery, do we like the purple insert with black lettering (not finished yet) or black insert with purple lettering?
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Happy daaaaaaaance. Still waiting on part of the order though.
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I couldn't help myself and had to touch around on the spoolie boi last night.
Trying to figure out what I want to do to lower inlet temps. I have been running a cone filter unshielded directly on the turbo. I really need to build some sort of cold air intake but the location where that sits on a diesel truck is where the AC plumbing and wiring pass through on a gasser.
Still waiting on my exchange exhaust manifold to come in so I can bolts everything in and see how it needs to fit.
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cold air intake means nothing on a forced induction engine. Your compressor wheel superheats the charge air so much and so quickly, the only way to reduce true IATs is with better intercooling.
 
cold air intake means nothing on a forced induction engine. Your compressor wheel superheats the charge air so much and so quickly, the only way to reduce true IATs is with better intercooling.
I agree to an extent, but having the manifold unshielded two inches from the filter can't be helping.

The issue I'm having is that on a hard pull, the engine fan is kicking on at engine temps I wouldn't expect to it, so I have in my head that it's the intake air temp causing it. It appears to ramp up fan speed for anything above 105 manifold inlet temp. I spoke with Jeff about it because I was in hopes he could find the voltage scale for the 75psi IATP sensor. With that billet 63mm, it didn't take shit to get the charge air that hot, so it got to be fairly frustrating. This truck has one of the large aluminum CSF intercoolers on it. Maybe it isn't the most efficient.
I suppose the new setup will run cooler and it won't be an issue.

I could rescale the temp curve to where it can't hit 105 and see what it does.


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A fleece that I modified. I need to get the aluminum stand-offs for the hose. It's been toasty at some point.

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So I returned the BD exhaust manifold with the wastegate port due to the clearance issue. I thought it would be a quick deal to have me up and running, but apparently the manifold I need is now back ordered for another two weeks. ?



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cold air intake means nothing on a forced induction engine. Your compressor wheel superheats the charge air so much and so quickly, the only way to reduce true IATs is with better intercooling.

I'd like to see data to back either side of this up. The newer duramaxes have functioning cowl hoods, that's an awful lot of extra engineering/peices to manufactur and install for something that means nothing. But maybe it's just a sales tactic.
 
I'd like to see data to back either side of this up. The newer duramaxes have functioning cowl hoods, that's an awful lot of extra engineering/peices to manufactur and install for something that means nothing. But maybe it's just a sales tactic.

That was a brilliant way to save space in an already crammed engine bay.


I don't know how to share data to back this up....it's just years of experience trying to fix a problem that doesn't exist.
 
I think we are in agreement that it matters or OEM wouldn't throw money at it, but it probably isn't valuable enough on a well turbo'd engine to chase after.
I don't have a way to seal a CAI from under hood air even if I wanted to run one because of the way the gasser AC lines run over the fender. In a perfect world I could do a 3D scan of the pocket it needs to fit in and then 3D print an air box, but that's just another project for me to get to 89% and lose interest in ?

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it's just years of experience trying to fix a problem that doesn't exist.

For some reason, that statement strikes me as extremely profound! It can be applied to so many things!

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Turbo fitment in progress. Chopped up the HX35 downpipe I've had forever and sectioned it using the HX40 DP that came off the ford. Need one more elbow tac'd on and another cut and should be about to burn it in.
On another note, my parts guy got me a T3 gasket instead of a T4, so no go today. Still going to fit up so I can build the CAC tubing.
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Should have it mobile tomorrow. The BD manifold has reliefs cut in it to clear faster hardware, but they were milled to clear the CAT spacers and nuts I used to mount the previous setup. Took me forever to get the manifold mounted. I ran out of argon and got pissed today and got a taller tank (80lb I think). Got the downpipe mounted up, ended up having to bend it slightly to get it to align with the rest of the exhaust, but it ended up exactly where the previous setup was even though this turbo location is more outboard than that old setup. Mounting the cartridge was cake.

Modifying the charge pipe ended up being way easy. Putting it in and out for fitment was a PITA, but I did essentially what I did with the downpipe, cut it in two places, flipped the 90 degree elbow that was previously added during the initial build. I made one more cut to the OEM charge pipe to allow a little bit of phasing on the pipes that ended up with about a 45 degree radius. I don't think I have pictures of it but I did make a video.
I know one thing, I should have invested in purge plugs. Every time I repositioned to weld, it seemed like my tin foil caps were jumping out of place. I just hated to spring for those for what I consider a 1-off project.
I had an issue with the charge pipe kissing the hood enough to remove the paint from the pipe and the hood. That shouldn't be an issue any longer, so I will probably get the pipe powder coated in the fall or winter when I'm not using the truck for activities. I also plan to get the secret squirrel powdered as well.
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Are you using mig to weld your charge pipe? I welded to the existing ford piping and that stuff was so thin I kept burning through with my welder turned all the way down. I was running 035 wire, and since got 023.i think it'll do a lot better with that
 
DC Tig welder and back purging on about 40 amps. 10cfm argon at the cup and 20cfm from the back purge hoseThe last time I did it, I kept having trouble out of the aluminized coating. I took a wire brush on a die grinder to everything I needed to weld to try and mitigate that. Seems to have worked.

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25 on the torch..10 on the back side...40 is hot...clean is good..all that coating off and anyhting else besides bare clean steel...not a bad job tho for a non welder dude
 
I started on 35 but I convinced myself that the puddle wasn't broad enough.
Thinking about buying stainless and building a charge pipe out of that but I don't think the pie cuts it would take would ever suit me.

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