HE351VE on a 12 valve

12VEG said:
The only problem with doing that is that the exhaust ports on a 12V are rtectangular, and on a 3rd gen they are round, so they wont match up right. The manifold could be port matched though.

However, while the subject is open I would like to know what would be so bad about the ports not being perfectly matched? On a mildly tuned truck would there be a big performance difference?
Click to expand...

It's been done, and there is enough material there to match them on an unported head (so I've been told by a reputable source).
 
BlackSkyRacing said:
It's been done, and there is enough material there to match them on an unported head (so I've been told by a reputable source).
Click to expand...

Yep that's the plan. Won't really be a long-term permanent setup, just looking for the easiest route to throw things together, then if I'm happy with it I'll likely switch out to a 2G manifold.
 
Would it be possible to cut the t-3 flange off a stock manifold and weld on the flange for the HE351VGT?
 
it's hard welding steel to cast. my dad is one of the best welders in the northeast and he wouldn't do it for me. but guys add external gates with seemingly no issues :poke:
 
From what I am being told the best way to weld to cast is with a O/A powder spray torch. You can also do it with a regular O/A torch and a 55% nickel filler rod but it requires a lot of pre and post heat.

I found and won a powder spray torch on ebay and I am going to use that to do my wastegate
 
bmarlatt said:
Let me rephrase this lol. How hard would it be? Has anybody thought about doing this?
Click to expand...

I've done something similar twice now with good results... But I didn't bother cutting the T3 flange off. I just used a 1/2" piece of plate steel and milled the openings I wanted, then welded and pinned it to the manifold...

Trick I use is to actually pin it to the manifold first and I stitch weld it on opposite corners about a 1/2" at a time. That and I wait to lay a new stitch in until everything is cool to the touch.

The T4 plate I did for an HX40 about 2 1/2 years ago is still holding up; ran it on my truck for about 40k. My friend runs it on his truck now, maybe only 2k, but a lot of it is off road. I've put close to 15k on this new turbo without issue (did the same thing with this one). I'm sure eventually I will crack the stock manifold or something of that nature, so I'll probably spring for a big foot manifold and see if I can get whoever I get it from to drill it for the goofy bolt pattern of my 451.
 
BlackSkyRacing said:
I've done something similar twice now with good results... But I didn't bother cutting the T3 flange off. I just used a 1/2" piece of plate steel and milled the openings I wanted, then welded and pinned it to the manifold...

Trick I use is to actually pin it to the manifold first and I stitch weld it on opposite corners about a 1/2" at a time. That and I wait to lay a new stitch in until everything is cool to the touch.

The T4 plate I did for an HX40 about 2 1/2 years ago is still holding up; ran it on my truck for about 40k. My friend runs it on his truck now, maybe only 2k, but a lot of it is off road. I've put close to 15k on this new turbo without issue (did the same thing with this one). I'm sure eventually I will crack the stock manifold or something of that nature, so I'll probably spring for a big foot manifold and see if I can get whoever I get it from to drill it for the goofy bolt pattern of my 451.
Click to expand...

What process did you use? Tig?
 
cummins6speed said:
What process did you use? Tig?
Click to expand...

Nope just plain jane MIG I think we run a 70/30 mix of CO2/Argon and I was using .030 wire with about 130amps runnin to it. Trust me I am just as surprised as anybody else that it worked that good...

03-15-09_1739.jpg
 
Has anyone made a serious attempt to make use of the electronics on the turbo with a 2nd gen truck?

I've looked into it some and outside of trying to build a custom controller around a PIC MCP2515, which would be more trouble than its worth to me. I think it might be possible to use a STW ESX-C2C, which is $410 for the base module, to control it.
STW Technic, LP

The Electric actuator on the turbo contains a ST7 micro controller.
ST7 - ST72521 - ST72521AR9 microcontroller - documents and files download page
 
BlackSkyRacing said:
Nope just plain jane MIG I think we run a 70/30 mix of CO2/Argon and I was using .030 wire with about 130amps runnin to it. Trust me I am just as surprised as anybody else that it worked that good...

03-15-09_1739.jpg
Click to expand...


Mig...wow, you must be quite the welder then. Is that with mild steel wire? I run C25 which is 25% co2 and 75% argon with .030 mild steel wire.

Maybe I will find some spare manifolds and see what I can do
 
Tohya said:
Has anyone made a serious attempt to make use of the electronics on the turbo with a 2nd gen truck?

I've looked into it some and outside of trying to build a custom controller around a PIC MCP2515, which would be more trouble than its worth to me. I think it might be possible to use a STW ESX-C2C, which is $410 for the base module, to control it.
STW Technic, LP

The Electric actuator on the turbo contains a ST7 micro controller.
ST7 - ST72521 - ST72521AR9 microcontroller - documents and files download page
Click to expand...


That would be a waste of money IMO. All that money and not to mention time into getting it to work it would be more worth it to buy an aftermarket turbo
 
Tohya said:
Has anyone made a serious attempt to make use of the electronics on the turbo with a 2nd gen truck?

I've looked into it some and outside of trying to build a custom controller around a PIC MCP2515, which would be more trouble than its worth to me. I think it might be possible to use a STW ESX-C2C, which is $410 for the base module, to control it.
STW Technic, LP

The Electric actuator on the turbo contains a ST7 micro controller.
ST7 - ST72521 - ST72521AR9 microcontroller - documents and files download page
Click to expand...

First off, welcome to CompD. It's good to get someone on here that might be able to get the electronics going on these things. I think if we could just figure out what exactly is making these things stick enough that the electronics can't work properly then it could be a great idea.

Unfortunately, until then, there is just too much success with the mechanical set ups IMO. Though has anyone heard if the 351s have been as problematic recently as they have been in the past (in new stock applications that is).

That is unless someone figures out how to make a linear actuator work somehow with some feedback as far as position and then comes up with a controller that takes in boost, drive pressure, and shaft speed then maps out how the linear actuator should work from those... Maybe TPS voltage too $.02
 
Tohya said:
Has anyone made a serious attempt to make use of the electronics on the turbo with a 2nd gen truck?

I've looked into it some and outside of trying to build a custom controller around a PIC MCP2515, which would be more trouble than its worth to me. I think it might be possible to use a STW ESX-C2C, which is $410 for the base module, to control it.
STW Technic, LP

The Electric actuator on the turbo contains a ST7 micro controller.
ST7 - ST72521 - ST72521AR9 microcontroller - documents and files download page
Click to expand...

my brother and i made one for one of his project for school (UofM computer Eng.) it works great on his car (less than 20 psi) but you get to higher boost(20+) the computer cant sample/reach fast enough to properly control boost(stupid high spikes then bypass too much and losses boost)
 
Number47 said:
my brother and i made one for one of his project for school (UofM computer Eng.) it works great on his car (less than 20 psi) but you get to higher boost(20+) the computer cant sample/reach fast enough to properly control boost(stupid high spikes then bypass too much and losses boost)
Click to expand...

What are you using to control it?
 
Tohya and Number47, do you have experience diesel turbocharging? If so what have you tried as far as VGT turbos and on what applications or combinations?
 
cummins6speed said:
Mig...wow, you must be quite the welder then. Is that with mild steel wire? I run C25 which is 25% co2 and 75% argon with .030 mild steel wire.

Maybe I will find some spare manifolds and see what I can do
Click to expand...

I might have my mix numbers messed up... Sometimes I swear I have dyslexia :doh: Yes mild steel wire, nothing fancy, same stuff I use to weld up farm machinery... NVM took a look at our tag, it's C20 :doh:


EDIT: I don't think I'm that great, just that usually when I weld something it HAS to hold...
 
Last edited:
Number47 said:
my brother and i made one for one of his project for school (UofM computer Eng.) it works great on his car (less than 20 psi) but you get to higher boost(20+) the computer cant sample/reach fast enough to properly control boost(stupid high spikes then bypass too much and losses boost)
Click to expand...

That's both cool and promising... BTW welcome to CompD; is there anything out there with a faster sample rate? You guys are going to get us here in over our heads pretty fast, just so you know :Cheer:
 
LReiff said:
Tohya and Number47, do you have experience diesel turbocharging? If so what have you tried as far as VGT turbos and on what applications or combinations?
Click to expand...

None, I picked up a HE431ve off ebay and want to see if I can make it work. ^^

The turbo I have the vane stuck due to an oil leak that coked the center of the housing up. Mainly it was dirt stuck around the inside ring for the vane. A little bit of Carb cleaner freed it right up though.

Removing the inner ring might stop it from sticking. Setting up the controller to exercise the vane when the truck is shifted into park might also help.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top