Helix 2 vs MaxSpool? Opinions

You guys missed the point on that one - I'm not complaining just stating the facts. Run what you prefer and be happy with it - period!!
 
This really turned into a worthless :stab: thread. Good thing there's an "unsubscribe" feature. Thanks fellas!:rolleyes:
 
Back to the point,... hopefully

So what is the spring pressure that is advisable to eliminate a lot of the problems we've been reading about? Is there a pressure you don't want to exceed on the high side? Low side? Tks. :thankyou2:
 
OT-OF-Here said:
So what is the spring pressure that is advisable to eliminate a lot of the problems we've been reading about? Is there a pressure you don't want to exceed on the high side? Low side? Tks. :thankyou2:
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when you start going above what the "stock' type of cams are made to offer for wear resistance, you get into bad territory, not sure where the line is where you need a billit cam and much better springs but i would say it's around 300lbs of spring psi. the most i will see is 265lbs of spring psi with my current setup!
 
I must not be thinking about this right then,...

DIESEL POWER said:
when you start going above what the "stock' type of cams are made to offer for wear resistance, you get into bad territory, not sure where the line is where you need a billit cam and much better springs but i would say it's around 300lbs of spring psi. the most i will see is 265lbs of spring psi with my current setup!
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Do I have this right,... The spring is installed and it takes 265lbs of pressure to depress that spring from it's installed setting? I use to run double springs on my muscle car and would use that spring/bar depressor to change seals periodically and I can't imagine it took maybe 60lb psi to do that.

How are these things tested anyways? I would think you would depress the spring to it's operating height and then see how much pressure additionally it would take to depress the spring,... help me out here,... what am I missing or misunderstanding.??? And could COMP or Don M state what that spring seat pressure is on their springs. Tks again.
 
On the new cam vs reground, Van (Haisley) put it to me this way:
A new cam could snap on the first startup, without any warning, a reground cam has already "proven" itself in a way (its already been in a truck).
Either one could break, but I figured, what the hey, its a bit cheaper and he did have a point on the "already being proven".
 
I'd bet money on a cast re-grind snapping LONG before a billet steel cam snapping!!!! I'd also bet on it flaking and wearing down if it doesn't have the proper taper to rotate the lifters
 
Are there any warning signs with these flaking lobes or does stuff just start to fail ?
 
Forrest Nearing said:
I'd bet money on a cast re-grind snapping LONG before a billet steel cam snapping!!!! I'd also bet on it flaking and wearing down if it doesn't have the proper taper to rotate the lifters
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well a cam made from a ugl(f1) blank is not a billet cam

in order to run a billet cam you must have the block machined for cam bushings and you must run billet lifters.
 
A new cam could snap on the first startup, without any warning, a reground cam has already "proven" itself in a way (its already been in a truck).
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Good ol farmer logic at it's best
 
duke1n said:
Good ol farmer logic at it's best
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Yeah, someone has that sales pitch thing down to a "T"

I've seen stock cams break for no apparent reason...buying something "proven" because it's already been in an engine is.......well, I won't say anything, but I wouldn't have done that! That salesman was spitting his best line that day!

My cam builder told me to keep it under 4500RPM...I intend to stay under that once I install it! If I want to go higher, I'll have to spend big money for a billet one!

Chris
 
You can run stock lifters on an 8620 billet cam, this has never been a problem, and the only reason to go to a billet is when you want a cam profile that is not possible on a stock core, or when running a large p pump. The stock core will produce the best profile for 90 % of the people out there and the finale dimensions will be with in a few thousands of the same cam ground form a UGL .


I can duplicate the H2 cam on a stock core, and the dimension would be almost the exact same, meaning the same base circle, and nose to bearing dimensions. The big reason I don’t is why. I do not agree with the specs on an F 1 cam and don’t know why this has become such a rant for MINE FURRER .
The really funny part about this is that Don proclaims himself to be the be all to end all, and everyone should accept his word as fact every time. What he has done in reality has been to really showed me and a few others his true lack of knowledge on simple and basic cam technology’s and terminologies.

The people that grind my cores at Bullet cam were blown away by his mistatements and total gibberish spouted in this thread. They grind thousands of cams each month and are the source of my information pertaining to the material and hardness of the Cummins cores. These are the same people that have ground cores for all the projects I have been involved with over the past 20 years. Their cams are in a good number of ProStock programs. The other source is LSM , I have dealt with them for 10 years and they make the 8620 billet cores I use in competitive race programs such as the Predator Truck , and several other sled pullers . I have Bullet grind them
also
What it really comes down to is who do you trust; I have been open and forward, giving specs, taking hours of time to help people achieve the best possible results. Don however will not, and hides behind the curtains and tries not to revel the real fact that he is not the brains behind his venture but an image only.

I make no bones about the fact that my strengths lie in a network of people and the conglomeration of a pool of information. To do this you must have a in-depth understanding of the total picture and how these parts must work together, in harmony. You must also have a vision and direction, and know how to integrate each person’s knowledge in to the total concept.


sorry for the negitive spin to a great thread.
 
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comp, if the f1 profiles are not that great. can or do you have a profile that would work better for the majority of the street/pull truck crowd?? or is it going to take calling and giving specs to make it? if so can i call? im? email?
 
Signature600 said:
Yeah, someone has that sales pitch thing down to a "T"

I've seen stock cams break for no apparent reason...buying something "proven" because it's already been in an engine is.......well, I won't say anything, but I wouldn't have done that! That salesman was spitting his best line that day!

My cam builder told me to keep it under 4500RPM...I intend to stay under that once I install it! If I want to go higher, I'll have to spend big money for a billet one!

Chris
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thats every day at haisleys

very well put greg.
 
feelmecummin said:
thats every day at haisleys

very well put greg.
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Not knockin' it...wish I had a sales pitch like that!

There'd be a WHOLE lot more Orange tractors in Southern Ohio if I did!
Chris
 
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