Hmmmm

12vCumminsFTW said:
truck looks freakin sweet dude! I like that it runs lower boost, thats what I want,lower boost/more power. I can't wait to get my twins built.
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Eh Its not dialed in yet so more tuning is in progress.

lorendiesel5.9 said:
Ahhh yes the good old parking garage.
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Yup got a cooler full of beer in the garage now too thanks to ennis.

burtonboarder said:
Damn. Thats a good lookin truck man.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
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VMAX said:
Looks awesome cliff.
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24vriviera said:
Schweet!
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Thanks guys!
 
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Well after tonight of going out and playing with the truck with some good runs I have come to a conclusion. My 50mm is on the big side and when it opens it kills the 351, so I'm going to try regulated boost to the bottom port and total boost to the top port. If that deoesnt work total boost. To the top port no boost to the bottom and use the internal gate on the 351 to try and not kill it. That way ill still be protected from excessive drive pressure, 25psi over boost and it will open, but can push the 351 better.

Currently it will hit 40psi with the regulator at 100%flow to the top port on the gate. The primary peaks at 25 ish but overall boost does not increase.
 
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Truck's looking sharp!

Just some notes.... along the way I seen the springs you had on the secondary internal gate and can remembering that they looked on the weak side, now I don't know where they ended up set at? Maybe its locked down and your only on the external?


That external gate can leak internally and this sure phucked me one time trying to set up a buddies truck.

Full boost would leak past the top and get to the regulated side, and the regulator was the type that could not bleed down.

What would happen is the pressure would equalize and the gate would just open working on spring only. (Turned out the piston seal was cooked)

If you haven't already, it might pay to use regulated compressed air as the source and check gate operation and watch for leakage out the bottom port line.



I'd full boost top port (leave bottom port open to atmosphere), lock the internal gate down and make some low rpm pulls, no more than 2600 and see how it responds and start working the gates in. (Foot limit boost or drive to what you want)

I find its usually a really fine line to get the gate to balance, and a pressure guage in the cab to monitor regulated boost is handy.
 
Not sure why the 50mm gate is having trouble getting dialed in. The T-smart 45mm seems more than enough. And simple to get where is needed to be.
 
Joesixpack said:
Truck's looking sharp!

Just some notes.... along the way I seen the springs you had on the secondary internal gate and can remembering that they looked on the weak side, now I don't know where they ended up set at? Maybe its locked down and your only on the external?


That external gate can leak internally and this sure phucked me one time trying to set up a buddies truck.

Full boost would leak past the top and get to the regulated side, and the regulator was the type that could not bleed down.

What would happen is the pressure would equalize and the gate would just open working on spring only. (Turned out the piston seal was cooked)

If you haven't already, it might pay to use regulated compressed air as the source and check gate operation and watch for leakage out the bottom port line.



I'd full boost top port (leave bottom port open to atmosphere), lock the internal gate down and make some low rpm pulls, no more than 2600 and see how it responds and start working the gates in. (Foot limit boost or drive to what you want)

I find its usually a really fine line to get the gate to balance, and a pressure guage in the cab to monitor regulated boost is handy.
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Thanks jsp, the internal gate is locked down, that was actually going to be something I tried and I was worried about internal leakage. You just confirmed that I need to look into it. Ill go to my buddies and steal his air compressor.
 
So started usuing my spring gate I made on the secondary with total boost to the top port on the 50 mm, I got it to 60 psi total 25 from the gt55 going to tighten the gate a little more to try and get 70 out of it. Drive was at 75 ish at 60 and the truck is running much stronger.
 
With just the internal He351 gate, I've seen as high as 57 psi from the HT4B and 90 psi total. Your GT55 should have a 10 blade 102/112mm turbine whereas my HT4B has a 13 blade 88/118mm turbine. I couldn't tell you which would create more shaft horsepower in our similarly fueled setups but my gut feeling is:

You just need to fuel it harder!!!!!

I also agree with you, the real fun starts at 60 psi and ends at 85-90 psi when boots start to become short lived and tires last just one tank of fuel!!

You also have head and cam work so who knows where your boost = my boost.
 
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My first go round I had NO gate and made 90-100psi routinely...I think that's part of why the motor melted. LOL

safety measures are good
 
Trust me I am fueling it as hard as my 5x20's and maxed 160 can, then only next step is to put the full cuts back in vs Westons 7mm's. With all my gates blocked off I saw 80 psi total boost but drive pressure pegged my 100 psi gauge quick! Fuel pressure with the aeromotive pump starts at 50 then goes up with boost to 90psi. There is no afc foot in it and its cleaning up fairly well sooo maor fuel?
 
Worked out a deal with Seth at Ennis, I am currently waiting for moar pump.
Unless you want to trade Scott LOL
 
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never mind then

I was willing to trade you pumps. IF I decide to tone it all down...that depends on what my wife wants to do with my other DD. LOL

NO that offer does NOT stand for anyone else!!!!!!!!!!!
 
I jsut typed a paragraph and got atime out error after hitting post. i'm not tying it again.
 
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