I Have Had It This Time!!!!!!!!

Remember to set your smarty back to stock before going into the dealership.

If you've done everything except the apps, then do the apps =P
 
Injector nozzle cracked under all the relaxed driving conditions you are throwing at it?..
 
paulb said:
Do you have a RAD installed?

Paul
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No RAD. Been thinking about getting one but i just want this problem gone first. If it only did all this with the programming then i would get one. But since it does it no matter what i run i am going to wait and use that money for the fix???????:bang:bang:bang
 
ok ok lets just put a hemi in it...... on a serious note did u hook the modis (i think you used a modis?) up and go for a drive? and have it hooked up while it did what you are complaining about?
 
well i can get it to cut out in neutral. So i just checked it out like that. the only think i found that was odd and i dont know if its normal or not was the fuel shut off was going on and off. I cant get more than 1 answer the same about the damn thing. Some say its a 12v source and it should be off at all times until the key is off and some say it is a signal wire and will see voltage from mlvots up to 10volts. So i have not clue.

Anyone??????
 
i think it is a 12v source but by that it basicaly means battery voltage/aleternator voltage, i would acept at most a 0.5 volt drop due to resistance from those sources but hell im not shure and if it the cut of switch why would it be a sensor wire? im confused now
 
jktcummins said:
well i can get it to cut out in neutral. So i just checked it out like that. the only think i found that was odd and i dont know if its normal or not was the fuel shut off was going on and off. I cant get more than 1 answer the same about the damn thing. Some say its a 12v source and it should be off at all times until the key is off and some say it is a signal wire and will see voltage from mlvots up to 10volts. So i have not clue.

Anyone??????
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is it the crank or cam sensor that tell the ecm the motor is "off"? maybe an erratic signal there?
 
He's only got the cam sensor on his and he changed it out and it didn't help.
 
is it a press on or bolt on cam gear? any chance if its a press on that its working its way off and at high rpms the CPS is not getting the signal?

just throwing out ideas here
 
Lostnwalmart said:
i think it is a 12v source but by that it basicaly means battery voltage/aleternator voltage, i would acept at most a 0.5 volt drop due to resistance from those sources but hell im not shure and if it the cut of switch why would it be a sensor wire? im confused now
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You should try and talk to 4 or 5 different people and they all give you a different answer. Thats confused.

Here is what i know for a fact. The wire that comes from pin 33 at the ecm goes straight to pin 5 on the injector pump. that wire is what controls the fuelshut off. i unpluged the connector at the pump and checked the voltage. It was jumping all over the place with the switch on. When i had the scanner hooked up to the truck and the switch on the fuelshut off data was jumping on and off.

Here is my thoughts. I feel like that this wire i am talking about is anything less that 10v its shuts the fuel shut off on and anything more than 10v up to 13.6v it shuts the fuel shut off off and the truck runs. This wire controls the metering vavle inside the pump (fuelshut off) so if this valve is seeing voltage drop the truck will be cutting fuel. It will be more noticable at higher RPM's. :bang:bang :soap:
 
getblown5.9 said:
is it a press on or bolt on cam gear? any chance if its a press on that its working its way off and at high rpms the CPS is not getting the signal?

just throwing out ideas here
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Well see this is something i have been thinking about. I had a cam put in a while back before all this started happening. The cam is from haisley's and it is the bolt on gear with a keyway and all that stuff. So i was wondering what would happen if the cam as one tooth off??? Seems like this was about the time i started seeing the problem.
 
jktcummins said:
You should try and talk to 4 or 5 different people and they all give you a different answer. Thats confused.

Here is what i know for a fact. The wire that comes from pin 33 at the ecm goes straight to pin 5 on the injector pump. that wire is what controls the fuelshut off. i unpluged the connector at the pump and checked the voltage. It was jumping all over the place with the switch on. When i had the scanner hooked up to the truck and the switch on the fuelshut off data was jumping on and off.

Here is my thoughts. I feel like that this wire i am talking about is anything less that 10v its shuts the fuel shut off on and anything more than 10v up to 13.6v it shuts the fuel shut off off and the truck runs. This wire controls the metering vavle inside the pump (fuelshut off) so if this valve is seeing voltage drop the truck will be cutting fuel. It will be more noticable at higher RPM's. :bang:bang :soap:
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I think it would be easier for ALL to understand if correct terms were used consistantly. not trying to be a dork , just saying the less confusion the better.
Have you called Bluechip or Industrial Inj. or MWFI ? As bosch shops they should know a thing or two about how these pumps work.$.02
 
jktcummins said:
No RAD. Been thinking about getting one but i just want this problem gone first. If it only did all this with the programming then i would get one. But since it does it no matter what i run i am going to wait and use that money for the fix???????:bang:bang:bang
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You do know that the 02's will defuel with the torque management? They also have a speed limiter. The RAD eliminates both of these. I maybe miss understanding your problem though... I do know thought that 02's without a RAD run terrible. A smarty helps, and the adrenaline makes it worse (my experience). If I try to do a boosted launch (above about 10psi), with the adrenaline, and have the RAD off, the truck will surge so violently that you would think it was going to come a part.

After all you have tried on your truck, I would sure hate to suggest you try another part...

Paul
 
TURBOLVR said:
I think it would be easier for ALL to understand if correct terms were used consistantly. not trying to be a dork , just saying the less confusion the better.
Have you called Bluechip or Industrial Inj. or MWFI ? As bosch shops they should know a thing or two about how these pumps work.$.02
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everyone i have talked to do not have the same info. I have talked to bluechip, II, Bosch, and my local injection shop. I have also talked to marco from MADS electroncis, and a few big wig mechanics. None have the same thoughts about this.
 
paulb said:
You do know that the 02's will defuel with the torque management? They also have a speed limiter. The RAD eliminates both of these. I maybe miss understanding your problem though... I do know thought that 02's without a RAD run terrible. A smarty helps, and the adrenaline makes it worse (my experience). If I try to do a boosted launch (above about 10psi), with the adrenaline, and have the RAD off, the truck will surge so violently that you would think it was going to come a part.

After all you have tried on your truck, I would sure hate to suggest you try another part...

Paul
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Well so if this is the problem then why does it do it with or with out any programming???? I and pull everything electronic wise off the truck and free rev the truck and you can hear the cutting out.
 
Even with all programming off the defueling is still there. If it wasn't such a pain I'd take my RAD off and send it to ya.
 
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