Inline ISUZU into Ford almost complete!!

carcrafter22 said:
I had a little time tonight and tried finishing a little more on the header. I still need to finish porting the head and turbo flanges so everything flows smoothly but this is basicly it.













Let me know what you guys think.
Click to expand...

Looks awsome!
Im betting that the only critic out there is yourself.
I know that after every manifold that Ive made Ive sat back and stared and thought about how I could done it better.
I love working with steel, its like playdough.

Nice work
Clint
 
That is about the most awesome project I have seen! You are doing some AWESOME work! I have always liked the old Fords and I love the way you kept the truck's original exterior body look (no hacking fenders, etc).
I would LOVE to do a 3.9 Cummins in a Jeep Wrangler, but I prefer a manual transmission. Damn, your project is awesome! Great job and incredible work on that header too!!!:cheer:
 
carcrafter22, instead of the 5r110 it might be a better option to go with a 4r100 with a gearvedor on the back it will give you a 5th gear of a .68 way lower than any tranny offered today. The 5r110 and the 4r100 have the same final gear layout but the 5r110 has a steeper first gear plus the 5r110 is not a true 5speed it jumps between 3rd and 4th depending on what the computer tells it to do.
 
I absolutely love the work you are doing everytime I think if only you would have done this I look at the next picture and you have done it !! You are a true visionary and have the talent and class to back it up !

Great work :rockwoot:

Nick
 
on the ceramic coating are you going to coat the turbo exhaust housing and downpipe also it will help further with the spool and max usage of thermal energy, but you probably know that already !
 
Thanks everyone. I am still planning on swapping to the allison 6spd from a newer model 06 or 07 chevy truck for the double overdrive. I can get rid of the 3.27 rear gears and step up to some 3.73 gears and help keep from lugging the motor around town and it should help my take off quite a bit, not that its bad now. :) I plan on coating the header in ceramachrome along with the pipe between both turbos and the down pipe. I will be running turbo blankets on both turbos to help with spooling and underhood temps and I will have all the cold piping powerdercoated (unsure of the color right now). I am looking for a local place that can polish the compressor housings on both turbos right now. I have also thought of fabbing up some kind of cool looking sheetmetal aluminum valve cover and putting some kind of cool logo on it like my initials maybe R&R racing or something. I do know I want this thing to be one of a kind when its done and I want it to look good.
 
If you were close to me I would let you come over and use my buffing equipment.I had my cold piping Powdercoated chrome look in my gallery it it is evry bite as shinnie as polished allum,I did all my own polishing and a freind sent the pipe of to his powder coating guy.in Cali.

Dale
 
such a kickass truck man!! I'm far from a Ford fan but this is just too cool.

whatcha looking to spend on a 6-spd alli? I might would sell mine. :D 2wd stock
 
Thanks for the suggestion. I am thinking of having the cold side done in some sort of chrome powerder coating to match everythng else. I think it would look cool.


Mitch if your serious about selling the alli let me know I am looking to spend as little as possible. I know idaho rob had one for sale for $1k with 1800 miles on it but I didnt have the cash at the time (well I did but then life came up so....)
 
Here is a quick shot of the hy35 in place after flipping the hydroboost around for clearance on the exhaust side of the turbo. There is about 2.5" from the tubine housing to the hydroboost and about 1/2" clearance between the compressor and master cylinder. I think this will be enough especially after I get the turbo blanket on it. I have the pipe from the hy35 to the hx52 just about finished I just need to weld all the joints up and sand them smooth with the 120 grit flapper wheel on the 4.5" die grinder. I will post up more pics of the piping later.





 
I havent worked on the twins all weekend since it was birthday weekend for my daughter and a friends child so as you can imagne we have been busy, not to mention we bought a dog sunday.

I did start on the HX52 mounting bracket this afternoon and took some pics of the turbo to turbo pipe I made.

The turbo to turbo pipe is made from 3.5" mandrel bent pipe. I tried making this pipe as short as possible while giving good clearance to everything. I was going to go over the top of the secondary turbo but chose not to for better looks.



This is the start of the hx52 support bracket, I have to have this since the turbo is sittng right above the driver side fender and I just dont like the extremely heavy (like around 45#'s) turbo only being supported by a couple of peices of pipe. I took a piece of 1" X 3/8" thick flat stock and welded it to my factory a/c compressor / alternator bracket, I then took a piece of 1" X 3/16" thick flat stock and clamped it over thte 3/8 piece on the a/c bracket. I drilled two 3/8" diameter holes through the 3/16" plate and just a little bit into the 3/8 piece so I know where to drill my holes. I will be drilling and tapping the 3/8" piece in the a/c bracket tomorrow and this will be my attacking point for my turbo support bracket.




After I drilled and welded everything I took another piece of 1"X3/8" flat bar and drilled 3 holes one for the turbo oil drain and one on each side for the tubo drain bolts. This bar will bolt to the turob drain and will also act as the turbo support bracket, I will be welding a piece of thick wall 1"square tubing to it and to the small piece of 3/16" plate. I think this will provide a sturdy spport piece of the turbo along with the tubing coming in and out of it.

 
Well I finally made some progress today on the twins. I finished the hx52 support bracket and it turned out pretty nice although the pics do it no justice. I am happy to say the bracket is light but very sturdy that huge 52 doesnt move an inch, in fact I can make the whole motor move a little by grabbing the turbo and moving it without the bracket flexhing at all. I decided to brace it with some 1/8" plate to make it a little sturdier and it worked out well. I need to finishe up the intercooler piping tomorroe then take it all apart to thread the flanges and start on the downpipe. Wooohhhoooooo!!!! I am almost finished.








 
Unfortunately I am running it through right next to the master cylinder. I really dont want to but its the only place I have room for it. I will probably notch the inner fender slightly with some 4" pipe so I can get the downpipe a little further away from the master cylinder. I plan on makeing a stainless steel shield to go around the master cylinder and reservoir to help keep heat out.
 
I might have been better to reverse the placement of the two turbos. Put the lp back by the engine block and move the hp up and forward.

Another option is to wrap everything with exhaust wrap. What will help keep the heat down.
 
Wrap your exhaust pipe all of them with header rap helps alot onkeeping the heat in the pipes not on everything else.

Keep up the good work deffently getting there.If you are like I am you will never be done with your truck I have been playing with mine for a few years my wife said I pay more attention to my truck than I do her.some times she might be alittle wright.

Dale
 
AAAAHHHH!!!!!!!! I dropped it and it split in half :(




HAHAHA just kidding, I had to cut it in half so I could grind the bottom of the collector smooth and close in the hole for the old wastegate location on bottom of the collector. I know this seems like more work but it was so much easier and nicer looking when I finished it all and as an added bonus with large hole in the bottom of the collector I could really get in there and port the heck out of the header collector and get it just the way I wanted it. everything flows really smooth now and there are no sharp points or bumps to mess up air flow.






I also got the wastegate installed and in the final position I hope a 40 mm will be enough, I think so.
 
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