my latest motor build with pictures..

yes Zach, the pistons were big bowl commercial and also were cut the .150 and a .017 protrusion as the previous combo had the pistons cut at .100 with a slightly higher postrusion of .024.. we decked the head .060 so we all thought the vavles would clear.. well they did cold but when i blew the head gasket @ 25miles all the intake vavles were making contact.. keep in mind it still smoked at low rpm.. but this is why i had to go with a .020 gasket to clear the valves..
again it runs perfectly, as long as you dont look in the mirror..
 
Maybe setting the pressure on the injectors up would adomize the fuel a little better, I know on tractor motors some of the guys set them real high. Might ask Kevin about this, just a thought.
 
yes Gary i plan on setting the pop off's at about 300 bar in hopes to clean it up some more.
 
they only have about 500 miles on them after being "freshened" at ddp so im assuming around 260 ish..
 
Did you use the stock key way when you put cam in or did you use a different one?
I used one that I was told I had to from Hamilton so that the valves wouldn't hit without cut pistons.
 
.150" fly-cuts, big bowl pistons and .020" over gasket, I think all add to the issue you are having. In my opinion, the cam might add to the total issue as well.

If you get it apart again, go with a standard headgasket and get a cam that will clear without fly-cuts.

If you have to cut .150" out of your pistons to get the cam to fit, you are loosing a lot of compression and you probably have a cam that bleeds a lot of compression off at low rpm by staying open after BDC too long. I know you are doing a lot of work to the engine to try to fix it, but I am telling you a standard head gasket and a 188-220 will make a difference if not completely fix your issue.
 
Would love to see this back to back Comparison! Is it possible to re degree the current cam
 
well I am about to put a standard gasket in my truck. So we shall see if it works for me. I'm thinking the 188 220 should clear since I had to use a different key way for it which offsets the cam.
 
im sure there are a few things that added up to being smokey from anything more than 5psi.. the very short time i had the standard thickness gasket in it was still smokey. maybe i could change the centerline on the cam to make it work, but the reality is that this all worked before.. without smoke.. period..
it starts almost instantly cold, stone cold. and it hazes slightly, not bad at all. im sure my cr is down to about 15-1. but by about 20psi you would think that would be negated but its still smokey, real smokey..
im not sure what im going to do yet..
RC keep us in the loop and let us know if the standard gasket cures your smoke.
 
If it starts that well then your compression ratio both static and dynamically can't be that bad.
 
thats what i have been thinking also, the cr might be down to 15 but even with 27* it starts in about one revalution first thing in the morning after sitting for 2 days..
and the cam may be a bit on the agressive side to hit the pistons but man it runs exellant, almost instant spoolup.. it just smokes black smoke at Anything over 5 psi.. i so wish it didnt.. i wouldnt change a thing.. but it does so something is going to have to change..
 
The afc is intended to reduce smoke on these pumps. You tell me how that is not possible to tune the smoke out. There is boost and excess smoke. To me that sounds like the afc is not limiting correctly?
i know there is a trade off but he wants less smoke so its something to try.
Even if its the exact set up(air) as before, the small things could be changing how it works smoke free
 
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