opinions on build for 650 hp

So has that one never been used? I might use an a1000 for the drag truck. Or a mechanical one
 
97rada said:
So has that one never been used?
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Correct. Unless I f'd up and sent you the old one, but that one was dirty and obviously used, and I'm pretty sure I just saw it on the shelf LOL

I can't remember for sure, but I may have even shipped it to you in airdogs packaging.
 
Hi guys ive been trying to fine tune the truck the last couple of weeks and I cant seem to get the turbo to spool or light under 2000rpm. The truck is pretty slow from a stop until about the end of 3rd gear then it lags a bit in 4th when I shift then takes off its a pain climbing hills . Would a cam make a good difference in spool, Or a larger delivery valve upgrade. Or would it make better sense moving down to something like a 62mm turbo but how much top end power would I lose. Or should I just save for twins. Basically what im wanting is the turbo kick but like 300 or so rpm sooner. Looking for a turbo combo that would make my truck fastest being a 5 speed.
 
If you want it to spool faster, get a turbocharger that doesn't have a clipped turbine wheel.
 
Im running a billet 7 blade s366/73 .91 t4 turbo what do you mean by clipped turbine wheel
 
Try a 63/68 with a .91 or .83 housing. The 71 turbine isn't horrible, but the 68 is definitely better from my experience.
 
Hi guys so last week I put the afc live stage 2 kit in along with the max travel kit. The truck would not boost past 10psi it was normal up to 1600 rpm and would not pull hard or anything so I put the stock spring back and it was a little better but still wouldn't pull as hard as before and the turbo wouldn't lit and really pull like it was before and only get to about 18psi in 3rd . But smoke was down from before. now this week I put in 7mm delivery valves and it smokes real bad now and still doesn't boost like it was before or pull as hard and only gets about 20psi in 3rd vs 35psi before. Im kinda lost on what to do now any input is much appreciated thanks
 
My truck also has a oil smell when idling and I found oil in the intake tube does my turbo need a rebuild then? there is no shaft play however. Would it make sense to just buy a smaller turbo like a 63mm one and sell this one? thanks
 
98grail said:
My truck also has a oil smell when idling and I found oil in the intake tube does my turbo need a rebuild then? there is no shaft play however. Would it make sense to just buy a smaller turbo like a 63mm one and sell this one? thanks
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Yes. If you have oil in the outlet of the turbo it needs a rebuild. Also have you checked for boost leaks? Sounds like you have something missing from the Afc live install. You should be able to duplicate what it was before with Afc wide open
 
I called power driven diesel and they said to run it straight from the head right to the afc housing and now the truck was pulling like before and boosted to 40 psi. Im pretty sure i must have git the lines switched but im happy how it runs now. How hard are turbos to rebuild and how much do the parts cost? Would it make sense to sell mine and buy a 63mm turbo?
 
An s300 rebuild is pretty easy and cheap You can find directions on line. The real question is why does it need a rebuild already . Are you barking it constantly , over speed ?
You'll need to pay special attention to the rebuild and document what you find in order to correctly diagnose what's wrong . Save all old parts and post some photos up on here , you've gotten good feedback so far I'm sure someone will chime in and let you know what happened to it .
 
The reason i think it needs a rebuild is when i 1st installed it i made a temporary return line and it kinked up. I think the oil had no where to go thats why it blew the seals but i have since bought the proper return line but it still has a burning smell and oil in the tubes.
 
98grail said:
The reason i think it needs a rebuild is when i 1st installed it i made a temporary return line and it kinked up. I think the oil had no where to go thats why it blew the seals but i have since bought the proper return line but it still has a burning smell and oil in the tubes.
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There aren't any seals in a turbo. There are rings, similar to piston rings, and that's it.
 
And often if you catch the kinked drain in short order the turbo will stop leaking.

And do not do a home job rebuild on performance stuff. These turbos spin upwards of 100k RPM at full tilt. I used to be in the train of thought that you can rebuild without balancing but there is a reason I just dropped more than 20k on a balancer.
 
zfaylor said:
And often if you catch the kinked drain in short order the turbo will stop leaking.

And do not do a home job rebuild on performance stuff. These turbos spin upwards of 100k RPM at full tilt. I used to be in the train of thought that you can rebuild without balancing but there is a reason I just dropped more than 20k on a balancer.
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Why do you have to scare me like this?....
 
zfaylor said:
And often if you catch the kinked drain in short order the turbo will stop leaking.

And do not do a home job rebuild on performance stuff. These turbos spin upwards of 100k RPM at full tilt. I used to be in the train of thought that you can rebuild without balancing but there is a reason I just dropped more than 20k on a balancer.
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How much you charge to balance? Only need the wheels right?
 
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