Ram50

andy2 said:
The A-pump is not very rpm friendly.Even a stock 10mm plunger still has a single helix.I've played with them in the past, 10 and 12mm custom (wimmers) .Eventually went P-series in the end on my VW.I'm currently running a P3000 at 1/4 crank speed with 13mm plungers and 2 lobes per plunger on the 1.9L.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jb2A4QzoEUQ

Depends on how many cc's and at what rpm that you plan on running the engine at.The A-pump can survive at lower rpm's.
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My favorite flap head is here!
 
Bodacious said:
700HP is the target HP. I'm thinking that's where our cummins is now, however I have no dyno time with the cummins. The P-7100 on the cummins is set at 650cc's.

If I'm thinking correct, I'll need the same amount of fuel and air with the 3.0BMW to get to the target HP.

Another consideration especially for us is the sheer weight of the P-3000/7100 v/s the A-pump.
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I still don't see why you don't max out your current setup before switching. 650cc should be good for 1200+hp
 
Bodacious said:
700HP is the target HP. I'm thinking that's where our cummins is now, however I have no dyno time with the cummins. The P-7100 on the cummins is set at 650cc's.

If I'm thinking correct, I'll need the same amount of fuel and air with the 3.0BMW to get to the target HP.

Another consideration especially for us is the sheer weight of the P-3000/7100 v/s the A-pump.
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I'll bet you're making 900 ish HP if you're burning 650 cc's, heck my Junker did 700HP at the tires on a 160 pump that flowed exactly 500 cc's on the pump stand at 2000 rpm and more like 450 cc's at peak power in the 2700 rpm range...
 
I still don't see why you don't max out your current setup before switching.
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Me neither, what the heck is the matter with me!!! lol

I'll bet you're making 900 ish HP
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I think with all the little quirks fixed back up she might go that high. Take like the crank gear being out of time, the boost leak somewhere, and just the general thrashing this thing took the last two seasons, she's tired.

By the way Will, would I be money ahead to let you open the bowls in our current marine pistons or purchase a new set??

My daughter will be running this engine in her first gen next season and I'd like to freshen it up, get it where we can go 40 or so degrees timing, install the common rail gears, install the billet cam we have, and get the intake milled off. Probably just ought to buy Anthony's engine, but, we have a pile in ours already.
 
Bodacious said:
Me neither, what the heck is the matter with me!!! lol







I think with all the little quirks fixed back up she might go that high. Take like the crank gear being out of time, the boost leak somewhere, and just the general thrashing this thing took the last two seasons, she's tired.



By the way Will, would I be money ahead to let you open the bowls in our current marine pistons or purchase a new set??



My daughter will be running this engine in her first gen next season and I'd like to freshen it up, get it where we can go 40 or so degrees timing, install the common rail gears, install the billet cam we have, and get the intake milled off. Probably just ought to buy Anthony's engine, but, we have a pile in ours already.
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Spraying in the bowls is not that important and will still make great power out of the bowl. Just don't sit on the lip. Also why the common rail gears? Not sure you can find a straight cut pump gear.
 
Bodacious said:
700HP is the target HP. I'm thinking that's where our cummins is now, however I have no dyno time with the cummins. The P-7100 on the cummins is set at 650cc's.

If I'm thinking correct, I'll need the same amount of fuel and air with the 3.0BMW to get to the target HP.

Another consideration especially for us is the sheer weight of the P-3000/7100 v/s the A-pump.
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It could be a major challenge to make 700 hp out of the 3L BMW.Not much of an issue for fueling and air however what will be the weak link on the engine side.How many head bolts per cylinder ? What will the rods/pistons take ? Will the valves/heads/cams flow enough ?

I made close to 440hp on 240cc's with my 1.9L in the past.I'm running an Iron cylinder head,cunningham rods and diamond pistons,colt cam etc..
 
Yes, the HP goals could be a major challenge. Take a little time and read back 10or so pages. Lots of folks on here helping me to sturdy things up and flow numbers are even linked somewhere on my thread.

Hey 98rada, I was having problems with the cam retainer wearing. I've got the gears (except pump) so I may as well use them.

Just don't sit on the lip
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This is where we are at 30 degrees. Got lucky and had to pull the head when we noticed. Backed her down to 26.
 
Thought I'd drop in and give an update to keep the thread alive.

Big Blue24, did you miss my question above?? I'll probably have to PM him. Probably going crazy with the new business??? lol

Currently in progress is the construction of two custom 4-stage dry sump pumps from Nutter's Racing Engines. AC is having an old friend machine out a larger shaft snout to fit the BMW injection pump sprocket.

I delivered the factory cam cover to Scott Law who will be machining out a piece of aluminum to mimic the injector/intake port (mess) part of the cover.

Scott has also completed a second gutted NP208 xfer case for me. This case has both the drive and driven shafts rifle drilled to the extreme. Short of going with aluminum shafts, you just won't get 'em any lighter. It could be a big disappointment if one of the shafts break.

Browell Bell Housings is sending me a semi-machined aluminum bell. It will be machined for the Lenco on the tranny side but the engine side will be blank. I'll have to drill and tap to my mid-plate.

Mt. Diesel sent my injectors off to somebody for oversizing. Going as big as I can go on these???? Not sure what will happen here???

Currently in the market for an A-pump if anyone out there (andy2) might have one for sale.

Now, if we can get the Hospital to work with us on the wife's latest surgery (gallbladder removal), we should be able to get all the pieces back together for a fun and exciting racing season. With the wife's blessing, I'm gonna pull the front driveshaft and do some more 1/8th mile stuff if they will let me on the track.

My wife and I are now both self employed. We bought health insurance this year for $740/month, $12,000 Deductible, and a just recently realized a 40% coinsurance responsibility. Pretty sure we would have been better off without health insurance, but, I'm waiting for all the bills to pile up before making this call. Truth is, are income this year will be low enough to qualify for free Obamacare in 2016. However, we just ain't those kind of people!!!!!
 
Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. Use it when needed, don't when u dont. Don't abuse it.
 
shortbusdriver said:
My favorite flap head is here!
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Dam near the only flap head on here too.

Bodacious said:
Currently in the market for an A-pump if anyone out there (andy2) might have one for sale.

My wife and I are now both self employed. We bought health insurance this year for $740/month, $12,000 Deductible, and a just recently realized a 40% coinsurance responsibility. Pretty sure we would have been better off without health insurance, but, I'm waiting for all the bills to pile up before making this call. Truth is, are income this year will be low enough to qualify for free Obamacare in 2016. However, we just ain't those kind of people!!!!!
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I have a couple 6 plunger A-pump cores up here if needed.I'd send one down for shipping charges only if needed.
 
Were any A-pumps factory assembled with the 9, 9.5, or 10mm plungers???
 
I've been doing some research on custom pulleys and belts to drive the A-Pump. As usual, I'd like to use aluminum to keep the weight down.

I've noticed in my experience that the driven pulley on applications like the TDI's is very heavy. Is this pulley heavy to provide a flywheel effect or am I overthinking this?????
 
There were A-pumps fitted with 8-10mm plungers.I ran 10mm plungers from a John Deere application.Some plungers are not flat top and have an undesirable helix also.There are also left and right hand helix plungers.There are different pump housings depending on what side of the engine that the pump is mounted and clockwise or counter clockwise rotation.

Definitely have a chat with Wimers fuel Injection as they might be able to tell you the best pump # to get and possibly just bolt on.It also depends on what governor you want to use.. (RSV or RQV) ? You can ask them as they know alot more than I do.

I think that the heavier Sprocket on the TDI is a little easier on the timing belt and crankshaft sprocket.The earlier TDI used a lightweight sprocket.
 
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Thanks andy2. Definitely a lot to consider before buying an A-pump. My pump guy wants me to find one with an RQV governor. All the ones I've found on the interweb have the RSV.

I know I wanted to try to stay away from an ag type governor for the staging and what not.

Injector tips are back and 100% larger than they were stock. Now, I can't tell ya what that means just yet; just that they are larger than stock now. lol

Seriously though, I do need to find out what they compare to in the 5x18, etc... language.
 
andy2 said:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-9-400-230-119-Bosch-Diesel-Fuel-Injection-Pump-PES6A100D320-3912636-Cummins-/251976849253

This pump could just be exactly what you are looking for,10mm plunger,RQV,etc.. even shiny new.

You can put an RQV governor onto an RSV equipped pump.The pump shaft is the same for either.So any A-pump RQV governor could be used if you already have a 6 plunger pump.Some of the 4bt A-pumps have the RQV governor and are a little more common than the 6 plunger models.
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Thanks andy2,

Pump is purchased and on it's way to Mt. Diesel. I did a google search on A-pumps and then the same search on e-bay and this pump did not come up????
 
You're welcome.One other thing to mention is that this model probably lube oil fed.You will likely run it as self contained lube oil,right ?

The front bearing housing will need to be swapped out as it has the oil drain is just above the oil seal.You could weld it up and machine it or just find one without the drain notch.

Hopefully it has the good 10mm plunger,fingers crossed.Looks like a 6ct pump.
 
andy2 said:
You're welcome.One other thing to mention is that this model probably lube oil fed.You will likely run it as self contained lube oil,right ?

The front bearing housing will need to be swapped out as it has the oil drain is just above the oil seal.You could weld it up and machine it or just find one without the drain notch.

Hopefully it has the good 10mm plunger,fingers crossed.Looks like a 6ct pump.
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You hit the nail on the head. Pump is coming apart for delivery valve work, can re-grind, self containment mod, and some secret Mountaineer Diesel additions.

I'm with ya on the plungers. Just gonna have to wait and see.
 
If you end up needing the Case or John Deere Bosch 10mm plunger and barrel part #'s I should be able to help.The difference between the Case and John Deere plunger is the helix being opposite.
 
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