S366 Turbo

If you plan on running those twins with injectors still I would seriously look into getting your head cut for either O rings or fire rings to go with the head studs.
And believe me when I tell you ... There is NO such thing as "bulletproofing" a high HP truck. All you can do is upgrade what you think you need to and wait for the next weakest link to fail. And contrary to popular belief amongst most beginner enthusiasts, there will ALWAYS be a weak link. Also once you start upgrading one of these trucks, it's a viscous cycle for that extra little bit and your "build" will never be done. ?


I like to go fast
 
Definetely believe that i had a built ls1 and it went from being valve seals to damn piston rings but it did last a long time
 
Seals and piston rings will be the lest of your worries. These aren't LS1 gassers. You have read everybody's advice now it is up to you whether you will use it or not. You might have to learn the hard way.
 
What affect me alot is I would like to do the work myself but i am afraid of messing anything up. I did just install 025 DV on the truck. They fuel alot harder than my 181 but i cant tell if they increase my performance dont have a dyno and they have closed down the nearest track. I would like to do all this work myself like installing my studs and valve spring i even went so far as buying the needed tools. Its just when it comes down to it i realize how little needs to go wrong to affect these motors. I do read up as much as possible when i can i just cant stay on this website forever
 
zrultima said:
What affect me alot is I would like to do the work myself but i am afraid of messing anything up. I did just install 025 DV on the truck. They fuel alot harder than my 181 but i cant tell if they increase my performance dont have a dyno and they have closed down the nearest track. I would like to do all this work myself like installing my studs and valve spring i even went so far as buying the needed tools. Its just when it comes down to it i realize how little needs to go wrong to affect these motors. I do read up as much as possible when i can i just cant stay on this website forever
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It actually takes a lot to screw up these engines, and it's good you're doing it yourself because if you take it to a shop every time something breaks, you're going to be paying their rent.

That's why everyone was saying to read up because it'll save you money. If you don't want to read, I am sure the guys at any decent shop will have a clue as to what you'll need.

And if you're still on a HX35, you are probably just throwing more fuel at it that it can't use. It might shoot up to 45psi faster, but it isn't going to make much more power. Your drive pressures will get nice and high along with your EGTs though.
 
Cornelius i just wish i had the intuition to look at it and be like ooh this is what i need or this has to be done and so on and so on. I hate paying shops to do my work especially where i live there been shops around here that would get a part from say a junkyard and put it on your car or truck and charge you as if it were from the dealer. I have seen it happen to my family member friends and coworkers its terrible. Anything to make a buck . I dont want to make any mistake when it comes down to my only truck but i dont want anyone else touching it.
 
Like CorneliusRox said, you'd be surprised what these engines take to mess something up. And although the info can be hard to understand sometimes don't let that deter you from doing the work yourself. Anyone with any mechanical ability can easily do any required work on one of these engines. Especially with such a wealth of knowledge available on CompD. Enough searching on here and you'll always find your answer... And if you can't find an answer, THEN ask and surely you will get a knowledgable response you were looking for. Best of luck to ya


I like to go fast
 
Just a key note to add... everyone on this site was a beginner at one time or another. Some are just more willing to listen than others to expand their knowledge


I like to go fast
 
zrultima said:
Cornelius i just wish i had the intuition to look at it and be like ooh this is what i need or this has to be done and so on and so on. I hate paying shops to do my work especially where i live there been shops around here that would get a part from say a junkyard and put it on your car or truck and charge you as if it were from the dealer. I have seen it happen to my family member friends and coworkers its terrible. Anything to make a buck . I dont want to make any mistake when it comes down to my only truck but i dont want anyone else touching it.
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That part just comes with time and experience.

And there are tons of shops like that which is why I don't take my truck to shops, but there are also good shops that know their stuff, are humble, and do amazing work.
 
You've got some researching to do for sure. Just don't jump into buying a ton of parts expecting this thing to make a handful of horsepower. A 66/480 twin set is healthy. A 66/74/.9 twinset is the base to a 1000+hp on fuel. I have a 1000+hp on fuel goal, and will be running a Billet 66/74/.9 over a Billet 484 both chargers from Chris at E.D. Only thing that is going to keep me from that HP goal on fuel is my pump. I will be doing a 13mm injection pump near summers end. Already into this build $6,000+. Thats with me doing all my own labor, my own porting, shaved plenum myself, intake manifold myself etc.
 
Thank you stubz I do alot of listening i am a better visual learner. It is hard for me to read the information and tramslate it onto what i am doing since most of the time things arent always book perfect. Valve springs and head studs do seem like an easy install. as far as i know the only difficult part seems to be cylinder 6 on the valve springs. I also need to find a machine shop to machine my rockers for the arp.

Cornelius it just difficult to find a decent reasonable shop around here. In fact when i had no idea on what i was doing back in my ls1 days i took my maro to a shop to replace a radiator they charged me 300 bucks just for labor. After that happen never again
 
Thats not too bad murphy so far in parts i have almost 2k besides the tranny it adds up. I dont make big money i work at Napa no money there lol. I just would like to do this before i get too old and dont want to go fast anymore.
 
zrultima said:
Thats not too bad murphy so far in parts i have almost 2k besides the tranny it adds up. I dont make big money i work at Napa no money there lol. I just would like to do this before i get too old and dont want to go fast anymore.
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Time to get a new job then, or do a TON of labor to try chincy things like overtorquing head bolts, pushing stock valve springs, getting 215 injectors, and using used turbos that were stock off of something else.
 
That is also without turbos. Its not terrible, but its the little dumb stuff that adds up quick.
 
Cornelius i already have supporting mods ill spend the money where it counts 165pds valve spring arp studs 5 x.018 injectors i have it all. There not really any great jobs down here if i move up north where most everybody at i can find something nice and reasonable not here though u need alot of money to live here from half million dollar houses, 1k rent, to expensive insurance its difficult to make something fast without having alot of money at first
 
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Alright gyys i have the s366 installed what a pain in the ****ing ass to get in there from the drain pipe fitting all the way to the t3/t4 adapter it was a 6 hour mission. Anyways i was able to finish today and what pissed me off is i couldnt get the exhaust bolted back on to the downpipe it pissed me kff so now im running open downpipe. It runs a bit laggier than stock but egt climb quickly with this one
 
Sorry to revive this guys i can only get it to 35 psi i do have the stock lift pump but truck still feels like it can go a bit more*is there anything im missing??
 
Try removing the BHAF, just do a test run open filter and see how it effects boost.

Next pressurize the intake tract and find where the boost is leaking.

Finally have someone watch the turbo when you first start the motor when cold and look for exhaust leaks. It will let out a small puff on a cold start anywhere with a leak large enough to drastically effect performance. Every leak pre-turbo hurts power, boost, and spool-up.
 
I was having a huge leak before where i asked kipp at dpp that at every start up i saw a big puff of smoke comibg from the turbo he thought it was normal till i removed the flange from the turbo and reposition it . No no more leaks but still at 35 pds of boost
 
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